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Member Since: Jul 22, 2005
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Christian
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Point Rank: # 356
Total Points: 1,905
Last Year: 172
Last 30 Days: 13
59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2879 | Routes 27 | Areas 3 | Photos 224 | Page Improvements | Comments 470 | Posts 1215 | Stars 483 | Ratings 457
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : No Climb For Old Men (5.13-)
By: Christian When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Nice work dudes!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Christian When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: I was going by Google, though I was kind of assuming the climbing was on the red line and apparently it's actually on the blue line. It was years ago and I can't even remember what I did 5 minutes ago lol

Rock Climbing Photo: Havens
Havens



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Christian When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: The crag is almost directly south facing, with a little bit of east.

I remember some shade in the morning for about an hour or so on the 2 or 3 routes on the far right, before the sun cleared the ridges to the east. Maybe from 9 to 10 AM or so. Rest of the day was pretty grim, I remember there were only a couple of bushes with minimal shade.

Some other people arrived and it was a sort of not-too-subtle competition to see who could swoop the shade while not climbing or belaying.

The tower on ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Mask of the Red Death (5.13a)
By: Christian When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: "Human arrogance was cholera’s advantage: Paris, for example, was completely unprepared for its arrival in March 1832. Bizarrely, in the evenings, the elite dressed up as corpses for “cholera balls,” the inspiration for Edgar Allan Poe’s “Masque of the Red Death.” Shah writes that “cholera killed them so fast they went to their graves still clothed in their costumes”—a detail consistent with the typical onset of cholera’s diarrhea after midnight, followed by massive dehydrati... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : How Do You Like Them Apples (5.11a)
By: Christian When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: With my newfound knowledge, was able to single-handedly turn the front page consensus into 11 minus. Feel so powerful ;-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Wall of the Trundling Troll...
By: Christian When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Read the "Getting There" section above, provided by SA himself.

I think the Steiger guide has a slightly more detailed description of the old approach?

One time I hiked straight from the Troll Wall to Waltzing Witches, and was definitely discouraged from trying to head directly to the lake from there.

It may be a slightly shorter distance as the crow flies, but definitely not a shorter hike.


Location:
By: Christian When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Added you as the photo credit


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Queer (5.12-)
By: Christian When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Got a little freaked out w the SMC hangers but they're actually the newer-style good ones ( bad style on the right in picture below, note horizontal stamp and thinner overall). We tightened the nut on the crux bolt, but some Loctite would be good as well if anybody is up there.


Rock Climbing Photo: New (left) vs Bad Old Style (right)  Photo by C. M...
New (left) vs Bad Old Style (right)

Photo by C. Miller



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lady of the Knight (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: I would look at the consensus ratings, Paul. But even that is not really a "democratic" weighted average. Just eyeballing the ratings, it's pretty obvious the rating given by the person who added the route gets more weight.

Lady of the Knight has 4 ratings 10+ or above which apparently carry the same or close to the same weight as the one 5.10 rating given by the person who added. So really, looking at the detail of the consensus is best.

Anyway, thinking back, the 10c I gave Cornickopia seem... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 3 - Spine Cave : Chosstafarian (5.11a)
By: Christian When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Pretty solid 11b IMO, even after you know the beta. Stout onsight.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Eye Of The Tiger (5.12+)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for moving the bolt Jbak. Although I skipped it on my redpoint run, the new location was tons easier to clip on a couple of close runs I had before the send.

Thanks also to Tom & Elke for reinforcing the creaking flake below the "eye".


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Christian When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: As people lower off an overhanging route like this, the quickdraw pulls on the hanger, that's what might have loosened the nut on the new bolt at the start. Lead falls too, I tried some weird beta at the start after many years away from this route and fell on the first bolt!

The spinning SMC hangers on the hexheads further up are probably the same setup EFR talks about removing and replacing in the link below. Those bolts/hangers at Prison Camp took a lot more abuse, longer falls w less rope ou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: There is a walk-off, joining the standard walk-off to get off the Sheepshead i.e. the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead (which is climber's left).

Trying to rappel a route with traversing pitches like P4 on this route might be problematic, to say the least.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Andy's Hat (5.9)
By: Christian When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Lol, how did I miss this story ?! Hadn't set up my RSS yet I guess.

All's well that ends well, said the bard..


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: People were getting hurt b/c of the inability to understand the "trad,sport" designation as meaning a mixed climb, so at some point it was decided to call anything with even one placement "trad".

"I've changed the way you categorize routes as shown below. Routes are now either Trad, Sport, or Other, and can no longer be Trad AND Sport." - Nick Wilder

mountainproject.com/v/trad-vs-...

mountainproject.com/v/10901825...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Glenn's Route (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: I went slightly left after the last bolt and then back right only when I was pretty much on top of the anchors. By far the best part of the route and agreed it's the part that makes it three stars. Took me like 7 real redpoint runs to send this, so it was hard to give it just 12a.

"Slappin the Johnson" to the right felt significantly easier (even w no stem at the top) and would probably have sent on my second run were it not for breaking a foothold (got it next run).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: I've messed around on TR on this, definitely not 5.11 :-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Ruby Slippers (5.11a/b)
By: Christian When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Attentive belayers on this one. You could definitely hit the deck if your belayer has about a foot of extra slack out.

I've watched people come pretty close to the ground after falling with their feet a good 4 feet below where their feet would be on the last hard moves.

Even if you don't deck, the hard catch that will be almost obligatory to keep you off the ground probably won't be too fun either.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Holy smokes Batman, I hope the rock quality is at least a little better than it looks, probably not the best route to be learning cam placements on..


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hairy Interlude (5.11)
By: Christian When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Charles, the BD .4 did not pull when she first fell on it but then pulled after when she was hanging on it?

There must be something that holds body weight near the crux somewhere because I took on cams around the crux at least twice. That was years ago when the route first went up, so maybe the rock has gotten smoother since?

Anyway, scary stuff! Glad nobody got hurt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fear of Intimacy (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: 25 cm draws on bolts 3 and 4 might work to eliminate the rope drag up high.

17 cm + unclipping bolt 4 didn't seem to completely eliminate it.

It's possible some of the draws in the middle should be long too.

Stick-clipping second bolt also recommended, rock is still friable.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Lost Feather (5.11-)
By: Christian When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: For whatever reason, anchors are set way back.

Long slings and ATC to rap recommended (you could probably figure out some counterweight deal to rap w a Grigri, but seems like a lot of work and/or weight to climb with).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Christian When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Agree w Luke, especially since this area attracts climbers who will not have a clue about what they're yarding on.

Unless anchored short, the belayer standing to the side is not a foolproof solution; it depends on the timing of the block's fall vs leader's fall, weight differentials between climber and belayer, etc..It is quite possible for the belayer to get pulled into the path of the block.

It's not likely, but a block could also sever the rope.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unnamed Mixed Route (5.10a/b)
By: Christian When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Since this climb is popular w beginning trad leaders and I'm pretty sure the first piece is a stopper (for whatever reason, it's hard to get a cam in the same spot), a word of advice: Don't allow your belayer to stand 10 feet back from the wall when belaying on this.

The further out he/she stands, the greater the chance of bottom-up zippering that first piece if you fall after placing a second piece, at which point you'll be relying on one piece to keep you off the ground.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Don't Tell (5.12-)
By: Christian When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: No, was actually about the third (or at most fourth) bolt once past the ledge, think I sidepulled the crack way right and leaned way left to clip.

It's about as safely bolted as it can be, but the ledge being so close probably had me overgripping to some extent on the whole bottom section.


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