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Rock Climbing Photo: Mistah Kurtz


Member Since: Jul 22, 2005
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Christian
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Point Rank: # 357
Total Points: 1,944
Last Year: 158
Last 30 Days: 10
59 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2935 | Routes 27 | Areas 3 | Photos 231 | Page Improvements | Comments 474 | Posts 1254 | Stars 486 | Ratings 460
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Eureka (5.13a)
By: Christian When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Right around the bolt that usually gets skipped on redpoint attempts there's a sharp flake system.

If you skip that bolt and feel like there's any chance you're gonna fall before clipping the next bolt (the one right before the crux), make sure to look down and check that the rope is not running behind that flake. I'm no expert, but to me the thing definitely looks sharp enough to cut a rope.

Last week, a friend bo... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Eureka (5.13a)
By: Christian When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Thanks John, not sure about the last link in the chain. I saw the fall (Alex fell about 20 feet then another 20 when the biner came off) but was on the upper tier and way too tired to go check it out.

I believe you about the pre-assembled pins but once they were taken off to thread the chain, they didn't stay on very well when reinserted. (not sure if the bad ones were taken off with the wrong tool in some cases, had the threading stripped, wrong side inserted into the threa... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Eureka (5.13a)
By: Christian When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: This is the type of 'biner we placed up there during "Love Your Orifice" day in 2011:

climbtechgear.com/steel-carabi...

Don't know if the Petzl Djinn STEEL would work as well?

Anyway, a normal aluminum biner or quickdraw would work temporarily but should be replaced w steel eventually.

Not a clue how that thing came off the chain? Inversion plus gate flutter? A lot of them lost their anti-inver... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : They Killed Kenny (5.11a)
By: Christian When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Click on the RSS buttton at the bottom of the page and you can set up a feed for new SoAZ comments.

You may also have to configure the browser you use ( w RSS reader add ins, etc) to correctly show the feed.

That's for PC, not a clue how it works for mobile.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : No Climb For Old Men (5.13-)
By: Christian When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Nice work dudes!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Christian When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: I was going by Google, though I was kind of assuming the climbing was on the red line and apparently it's actually on the blue line. It was years ago and I can't even remember what I did 5 minutes ago lol

Rock Climbing Photo: Havens
Havens



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Christian When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: The crag is almost directly south facing, with a little bit of east.

I remember some shade in the morning for about an hour or so on the 2 or 3 routes on the far right, before the sun cleared the ridges to the east. Maybe from 9 to 10 AM or so. Rest of the day was pretty grim, I remember there were only a couple of bushes with minimal shade.

Some other people arrived and it was a sort of not-too-subtle competition to see who could swoop the shade while not climbing or belaying.

The tower on ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Mask of the Red Death (5.13a)
By: Christian When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: "Human arrogance was cholera’s advantage: Paris, for example, was completely unprepared for its arrival in March 1832. Bizarrely, in the evenings, the elite dressed up as corpses for “cholera balls,” the inspiration for Edgar Allan Poe’s “Masque of the Red Death.” Shah writes that “cholera killed them so fast they went to their graves still clothed in their costumes”—a detail consistent with the typical onset of cholera’s diarrhea after midnight, followed by massive dehydrati... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : How Do You Like Them Apples (5.11a)
By: Christian When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: With my newfound knowledge, was able to single-handedly turn the front page consensus into 11 minus. Feel so powerful ;-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Wall of the Trundling Troll...
By: Christian When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Read the "Getting There" section above, provided by SA himself.

I think the Steiger guide has a slightly more detailed description of the old approach?

One time I hiked straight from the Troll Wall to Waltzing Witches, and was definitely discouraged from trying to head directly to the lake from there.

It may be a slightly shorter distance as the crow flies, but definitely not a shorter hike.


Location:
By: Christian When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Added you as the photo credit


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Queer (5.12-)
By: Christian When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Got a little freaked out w the SMC hangers but they're actually the newer-style good ones ( bad style on the right in picture below, note horizontal stamp and thinner overall). We tightened the nut on the crux bolt, but some Loctite would be good as well if anybody is up there.


Rock Climbing Photo: New (left) vs Bad Old Style (right)  Photo by C. M...
New (left) vs Bad Old Style (right)

Photo by C. Miller



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lady of the Knight (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: I would look at the consensus ratings, Paul. But even that is not really a "democratic" weighted average. Just eyeballing the ratings, it's pretty obvious the rating given by the person who added the route gets more weight.

Lady of the Knight has 4 ratings 10+ or above which apparently carry the same or close to the same weight as the one 5.10 rating given by the person who added. So really, looking at the detail of the consensus is best.

Anyway, thinking back, the 10c I gave Cornickopia seem... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 3 - Spine Cave : Chosstafarian (5.11a)
By: Christian When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Pretty solid 11b IMO, even after you know the beta. Stout onsight.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Eye Of The Tiger (5.12+)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for moving the bolt Jbak. Although I skipped it on my redpoint run, the new location was tons easier to clip on a couple of close runs I had before the send.

Thanks also to Tom & Elke for reinforcing the creaking flake below the "eye".


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Christian When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: As people lower off an overhanging route like this, the quickdraw pulls on the hanger, that's what might have loosened the nut on the new bolt at the start. Lead falls too, I tried some weird beta at the start after many years away from this route and fell on the first bolt!

The spinning SMC hangers on the hexheads further up are probably the same setup EFR talks about removing and replacing in the link below. Those bolts/hangers at Prison Camp took a lot more abuse, longer falls w less rope ou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: There is a walk-off, joining the standard walk-off to get off the Sheepshead i.e. the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead (which is climber's left).

Trying to rappel a route with traversing pitches like P4 on this route might be problematic, to say the least.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Andy's Hat (5.9)
By: Christian When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Lol, how did I miss this story ?! Hadn't set up my RSS yet I guess.

All's well that ends well, said the bard..


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: People were getting hurt b/c of the inability to understand the "trad,sport" designation as meaning a mixed climb, so at some point it was decided to call anything with even one placement "trad".

"I've changed the way you categorize routes as shown below. Routes are now either Trad, Sport, or Other, and can no longer be Trad AND Sport." - Nick Wilder

mountainproject.com/v/trad-vs-...

mountainproject.com/v/10901825...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Glenn's Route (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: I went slightly left after the last bolt and then back right only when I was pretty much on top of the anchors. By far the best part of the route and agreed it's the part that makes it three stars. Took me like 7 real redpoint runs to send this, so it was hard to give it just 12a.

"Slappin the Johnson" to the right felt significantly easier (even w no stem at the top) and would probably have sent on my second run were it not for breaking a foothold (got it next run).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: I've messed around on TR on this, definitely not 5.11 :-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Ruby Slippers (5.11a/b)
By: Christian When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Attentive belayers on this one. You could definitely hit the deck if your belayer has about a foot of extra slack out.

I've watched people come pretty close to the ground after falling with their feet a good 4 feet below where their feet would be on the last hard moves.

Even if you don't deck, the hard catch that will be almost obligatory to keep you off the ground probably won't be too fun either.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Holy smokes Batman, I hope the rock quality is at least a little better than it looks, probably not the best route to be learning cam placements on..


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hairy Interlude (5.11)
By: Christian When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Charles, the BD .4 did not pull when she first fell on it but then pulled after when she was hanging on it?

There must be something that holds body weight near the crux somewhere because I took on cams around the crux at least twice. That was years ago when the route first went up, so maybe the rock has gotten smoother since?

Anyway, scary stuff! Glad nobody got hurt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fear of Intimacy (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: 25 cm draws on bolts 3 and 4 might work to eliminate the rope drag up high.

17 cm + unclipping bolt 4 didn't seem to completely eliminate it.

It's possible some of the draws in the middle should be long too.

Stick-clipping second bolt also recommended, rock is still friable.


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