Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Rheen's Arete (5.7 R)
By: Chris Wenker When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a bolted line just to climber's right of Rheen's 'Rete. From the shared P1 anchor of Beeline/Rheen's, you can see a 2 bolt anchor about 40 feet below. There's a second rap anchor somewhere below that (visible from the ground). I talked w/ two ABQ guys who said they'd done that bolted route (~5.10), and rapped it with one rope. So it seems likely that you could also get down to that rap line from the Beeline/Rheen's P1 anchor with one rope (?).
But, topping out is more fun....
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Bee Line (5.9 R)
By: Chris Wenker When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a bolted line just to climber's right of Rheen's 'Rete. From the shared P1 anchor of Beeline/Rheen's, you can see a 2 bolt anchor about 40 feet below. There's a second rap anchor somewhere below that (visible from the ground). I talked w/ two ABQ guys who said they'd done that bolted route (~5.10), and rapped it with one rope. So it seems likely that you could also get down to that rap line from the Beeline/Rheen's P1 anchor with one rope (?).
But, topping out is more fun....
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Rheen's Arete (5.7 R)
By: Chris Wenker When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a shame that, with all the new steel that's been installed in the Stronghold, this crucial rusty buttonhead with a sheet metal hanger has been ignored for so long. Even after clipping it, I felt like I was in groundfall territory for a long time afterwards.
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : End Chimneys, Right (5.7)
By: Chris Wenker When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I also escaped at the top of the offwidth section and headed off to the right, up the chickenhead face. The chimney looked deep and wide and scary, and of dubious protectability.
We only took one rope, so we skipped the chains and topped out on a ledge up and left of the Stage Fright anchor. We sought out Kerry's "non-technical descent route" to the north -- the start is a little technical, but it goes. From the summit ledge, it also appears (?) that you could descend the south side with one ... more >>
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm still not convinced that 3rd bolt is on-route. It forces you way too far right, IMO. If the leader wants to end this climb at the Surface Tension bolts, it's better to skip that 3rd bolt on the right and go left up the gray water streak instead, because otherwise a 60 m rope won't get you there. We started the climb from the closest spot on the ground, but (as the belayer) I still had to simul-climb about 15 feet to allow the leader to reach the Surface Tension bolts after he clipped B3. ... more >>
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Zig Zag Man (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider taping up. Maybe it's my bad technique, but I chewed up my left hand on the sharp jams in the crux undercling.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Chris Wenker When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got a copy of "The Climber's Bible" by Robin Shaw, published 1983. It's just an old, quaint, 'how-to' climb book, but in the back, it has a list of US climbing destinations. Under New Mexico, it lists:
"Sandia Mountains, near Albuquerque
The Tooth of Time, Cimarron
The Basalts, near Santa Fe"
Maybe that's what Diablo used to be called? Ring a bell for any of you oldsters?
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Procrastination (5.8 R)
By: Chris Wenker When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In answer to George's request for information on the left, 'standard' exit pitches: (See also this Photo.)
Pushing the top of P7 (following the gully, not the 5.8 arete to the right) as high as possible allows you to belay on the Class 3 ground just under the left-facing corner with the roof on P8.
Schein says that P8 traverses left under the roof and then up to a point above the roof (to the Speedbump ledge, I guess). We were able to link P8 and P9 by heading farther left once past th... more >>
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : ... : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the comments Reed. The overall line as illustrated on this topo is pretty faithful to the way both Kline (1970) and Hill (1993) have the "Southeast Face" route described (although the last pitch on on Kline's photo is apparently misplotted). Your FA route truly sounds like it was off to the left, and may never have touched the current route.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the comments Reed; it's great to hear from one of the original artists.
The overall route as described here is pretty faithful to the way both Kline (1970) and Hill (1993) have it written up in their guidebooks. But it is very interesting to learn that the actual FA took a different line. The way you describe it sounds like it's somewhere between Hill's "East Face Variation" and "Blood on the Blade," or a combination of the two. Thanks for confirming that you went up fro... more >>
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : North Summit Direct (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Kear wrote: "Three stars means a great route (ie unbelievable climbing, perfect stone, very esthetic)."
....and that's why you gave the Northwest Ridge three stars?
(just kidding).
I was thinking this line is 2.5 out of 4, so I rounded up. Yeah, it just depends on how you use the stars, I guess. You've seen the El Rito Trad star discussion, I'm sure.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "X" would appear to be the penultimate dihedral on Kline's and Hill's "Route 6," approached by traversing in on the ledge from the right. Although I have not been up there to climb it.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Hill's Route 2 (5.6 PG13)
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also named "Route 2" in Kline's 1970 guidebook. It looks like Hill copied his first 9 routes on the Shield straight out of Kline.
Kline called Route 2 "Class 5, hard." Route 6 and Procrastination were the only other "hard" routes on the Shield in Kline's guide, if that helps. Who knows where Hill got his ratings?
It's hard to tell in my copy, but Klines photo topo seems to place the start of Route 2/3 on the right side of the buttress (but some of Kline's photo topos may be slightly inaccur... more >>
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does your tent really have a cat door?
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : ... : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't u think the right choice would be to equalize the two POS together ?
I just took the picture; it wasn't my lead. I think there were some gear opportunities a few feet before this location, but not much for a good ways after, although the climbing is not difficult.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : (03.1) Unknown (5.9-)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left the rating as indicated in the guidebook, but this is actually more like an easy 5.8.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : (01.1) Unknown (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left the rating as indicated in the guidebook, but this is actually more like a 5.7; maybe as easy as Cindy's Chimney.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (25) Unknown (5.10a)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So if I just used the arete for one hold at B3, what do I get? 5.9?
/Boo for contrived sport lines.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (23) Thief Crack (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right anchor bolt is flexing in its hole.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (17) Laurel's Climb (5.6)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors need some links added; currently it's a PITA to clean and rap through just the hangers. Downclimbing is another option.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (18) Unknown (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors need some links added; currently it would be a PITA to clean and rap through just the hangers.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left the overall rating as it is listed in Hill's guidebook, although the last pitch (the one shared with The Happy Gnome) is called 5.8 here on MP.
Someone should plan for a 50th anniversary climb of this route!
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Probe 1
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please do not try to poach this crag. The wildlife area and the state park are both CLOSED to climbing. There is a clearly worded sign to that effect on the gate at the Maverick trailhead, and the position statement from NM Game and Fish is pretty clear as well. Live with it; do not climb here, and not just because you might get arrested or fined. We may endanger current or future access to other similar NM areas where climbing is already prohibited or could easily come under the micro... more >>
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Muff Diver (5.7+ PG13)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ugh. Leave it. Change type=boulder and give a V0-.
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used to think this route was known in the olden days as the 5.6 "Puddin'", but now I don't think the old Puddin' description matches Yikes Dikes.
I also feel that both Foley's (2005:76) and Jackson's (2006:59) descriptions and topos are wrong in that they mention 3 bolts. It appears to me that there are only 2 bolts on "Yikes Dikes" proper, on the left side of the bifurcated buttress. After the 2nd bolt, it's straightforward and logical to follow some overlaps above, proceeding straight up in... more >>
|
RSS Feed
