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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : The Teapot : Wild Wild West (5.10+)
By: Chris Tatum When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mountainems, I am glad you liked the route! Ya the last pitch is crazy... When we did it, we called it 5.10... I thought that if it was on the ground, it would be about a V0 boulder problem... But 300' in the air, things are a little different! I will agree that it is not 5.10 after many people have done it... probably in the 5.11- range? It seems like people either send it no problem or grab a draw and/or all of them! I feel it has more to do with your head rather than strength. Anyway, good jo... more >>
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : The White Wall : Total Recall (5.13c)
By: Chris Tatum When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except one anchor bolt because a lack of tools. Will be revisited.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : Swiss Tower : True Value (5.11a)
By: Chris Tatum When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except second bolt because it was pretty new. Piton at the roof broke off inside the hole mid-shaft on second pull.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : Swiss Tower : Mr. Slate (5.10b)
By: Chris Tatum When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except 1st bolt which was pretty new. Piton came out with ease.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Chris Tatum When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya Paul,
Probably the same wall. We found and pulled a few OLD and I mean really really old pitons on the slabs below the 2nd pitch and some slings on a bush at the ledge atop the 2nd pitch. The pins are about 7 inches long and made out of a flat stock steel. There is a logo stamped on them that has some german looking words on them... anyway...Looked like whoever placed the pins and slings were gulley climbing to the left of the route.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Chris Tatum When: Mar 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an awesome route! Did it for the first time on Saturday and had a blast. I agree with Anthony, that old crummy bolt on the 5th pitch is not really necessary (not with modern day gear at least)... I had good gear before and after it and the climbing at that bolt is kind of mellow... the fixed pin above is more where the crux is and there is a bomber purple tcu right next to it.... so ya, don't lose sleep over it.
Right now there are a lot of cairns marking the turn and the correct wash that... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Chris Tatum When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is stout... This thing took me so long to do just because of the pain... I could only get a few tries each day. So short and so painful! Hats off to the guys that did this thing on nuts!
I used, in this order...
.5 Camalot
Yellow Metolius
Purple C3
Yellow Metolius
#3 Camalot
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : The Fin : Red Planet (5.13)
By: Chris Tatum When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is 5.8 or so... kind of chossy but short. Pitch two is the business.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : The Moose's Butte : Skyline (5.10+) : Photo
By: Chris Tatum When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya that must be me and Burcham! Cool photos!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : The Moose's Butte : Skyline (5.10+)
By: Chris Tatum When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh no!!! Bummer. There is actually good gear after that roof. You just have to peek around the flake to the left. Bomber nuts and small cams. Once you get the bolt there is good gear above to get you to the anchors. Spicy move stepping right to the anchor ledge! Good go at it! Lets get that #3 back to Bennett!
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi...
By: Chris Tatum When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, Anyone know what caused the massive puddle of blood at the base of Mr. Slate?
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Chris Tatum When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh, Thanks for posting such a thorough description and for getting all the facts right! I hope people enjoy it!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Boynton Canyon : The 3 Amigos (5.9)
By: Chris Tatum When: Feb 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a pretty good little spire but I wouldn't give it 4 stars... more around 2 or 3. Definitely worth the hike though. Check out the fun 5.10 TR where the rap is. A little dirty. Enjoy.
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