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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th) : Photo
By: Chris Sheridan When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I liked the winter conditions a little bit better.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As for 8/16/09 there is only one quick link attached to the bolts at the top. They are bomber bolts, so we just rapped off of the one that had a quick link. It would be great of someone brought up three more to outfit these bolts for a more safe rappel.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 8/16/09, the bolts at the top of the route are in fine working order. They aren't rap bolts though, and there are no quick links. We walked over to the left and rapped of just one of the two bolts on top of Lichen Lung as only one of those had a quick link. This worked just fine, but this area would be a lot nicer if someone brought up 7 or so quick links sometime (4 for Mud, 3 more for Lichen).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : North Chimney (M4)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it was pretty soggy when we were up there, but were on it pretty late in the day and it was during a warm spell. Hard to tell if it would be better later or earlier. Probably later, as the snow wasn't quite consolidate into true springtime snow quite yet. I bet things are pretty good up there right now.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Enter The Dragon (aka Old R... (5.7 M4 Steep Snow)
By: Chris Sheridan When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Aaron,
I picked up the name Dead Elk Couloir from Eli's ClimbingLife.com website though Dragon's Tooth Couloir may be the older name.
The Dragon's Egg is a feature on the south face of Meeker. The Dragon's Egg Couloir leads up past it. I have no idea where Tower Gully is.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Chris Sheridan When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the route in rock shoes and bare handed. I had my Russian aider setup on my legs the whole time and down low was able to free and French free (aka: cheat) where as up higher, I was mostly aiding, but still freeing occasionally in order to skip aid moves.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Upper Falls - Ice : Master of Puppets (M8-9)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, can't wait to get on it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Upper Falls - Ice : Master of Puppets (M8-9)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Other ethical questions aside, does this crack really need bolts?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Enter The Dragon (aka Old R... (5.7 M4 Steep Snow)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We descended east, from the notch in the south east ridge in two long rappels, one about 200ft, the second about 230ft. The anchor we used for the second and last rappel was about 50ft above the lip of the large roof. When I got to the lip of roof it looked like the ropes were about ten feet above snow, so I went for it. It turned out that the ends of the rope were about about 30ft above the snow. Getting down to the snow required letting one side of the rope (the side without the knot at th... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Andrews Tower, North Face (5.3 M5 Steep Snow PG13)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work guys! Looks like a really cool route. Can't wait to get on it.
Chris
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Big Bird (aka Fountaine Ble... (V?) : Photo
By: Chris Sheridan When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that's considered aid.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : ... : Photo
By: Chris Sheridan When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! That definitely looks like the better time of year to hop on The Wham Couloir. BTW, the gully to the left of Wham is also unclimbed (to my knowledge) as a mixed route. When I saw it last weekend, the first and last pitches looked pretty desperate, but there looks to be a pretty good ice pillar in this picture.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Jul 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Good Evans today. Great route! It and the other routes on the face were dry, the approach was easy, and there was only one other party around. What a great place.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never done the walk-off. We used a rappel anchor just west of the top of the route and were down in now time. One rappel with a 60m puts you on an easy slab and about 100ft from your packs. We did choose to belay down to the rappel anchor, which is a little ways below the top of the cliff.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Dec 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jaws is in good condition with two distinct pure ice lines. The left line offers good moderate WI4 climbing and a pillar has touched down well on the right side offering good WI5- climbing. Sunday saw lots of traffic with about 15 people there.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Keyhole Ridge (5.6)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a great off season climb of the Keyhole Ridge this Saturday (10/20/07). As the route is typically listed in the rock sections of guidebooks, away from the classic alpine routes in the park, it is often overlooked for winter/mixed style ascents. However, the route is a fantastic outing when in more mixed conditions, with easy to moderate technical difficulties.
We brought two ice tools and crampons but climbed the route using one two and bare boots. The crampons turned out to be useful on... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Dreamweaver on 6/2/07. Abundant snow has filled in many of the harder section and made for a easy and enjoyable conditions, great for a first alpine experience or soloing. There were a few short sections of ice and a little mixed climbing. It looked like the route will stay in good shape, possibly getting better, for a few more weeks to come.
Though we didn't get a close look, Right Chimney is probably in similarly good shape. One other party observed a sizable slide on the Notch Co... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Nov 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Alexanders on Nov 5th. The ice on the first steep section was very fractured from previous ascents. Aside from that, the climb was great and still in very good shape and lots of fun.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : South Face / Lady Washingto... (WI5 M5-6 R)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Nov 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did some climbing on Mount Lady Washington's South face on Nov 4th. We found excellent conditions and climbed two pitches of great ice.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Chris Sheridan When: Oct 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went for a hike Sunday, 10/30/06 and this is what I saw.
All Mixed Up and nearby climbs (Dr. Waz, etc.) looked pretty good. There was one party on AMU having good time. The snow bowl at the top is reasonably small.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Oct 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the Smear of Fear on 10-8-06. It was very warm and the ice was soft and not very well bonded to the rock. We opted for the traverse in from the left after which the ice was thick enough to be marginally safe. The cold weather these last few days should help keep this route in good shape for a little while longer.
Chris
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Chris Sheridan When: Aug 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up to FM today with a hammer, chisel, and a selection of pitons with the hopes of clearing away and replacing the piton that broke on me a few weeks ago. As soon as I got a good look at remainder of the pin, I realized there was no hope in replacing it. The pin broke off well inside the crack and reaching it was near impossible, so the hammer and chisel were never put to use. I did notice a good stopper placement a few inches above the pin and a very good cam placement above that, so t... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill
By: Chris Sheridan When: May 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the Thatchtop-Powell Icefield yesterday (5/28) then descended McHenry's Notch to Solitude Lake with the hopes of climbing the Hourglass Couloir. Thatchtop-Power Icefield was in great shape with perfect neve. There was a cornice on the right but it was possible to stay out from under it and still find a nice steep line. McHenry's Notch was in great shape towards the top but rather soft at the bottom at 9am or so when I got there. These are both great climbs and should probably stay ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Right Chimney (probably not... (WI3+ M5-)
By: Chris Sheridan When: May 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Eric and I had a great time climbing Right Chimney with the direct start on 5/21. The route was mostly snow and rock but the lack of ice did not detract from how enjoyable this route is or change the dificulty all that much. A rack of six cams, four pins and stoppers worked well.
Chris
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Chris Sheridan When: Apr 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the Hourglass Couloir on Saturday, April 8th. Our plan was to climb Sister Sweetly but the route was so non-existent that you couldn't even tell were it was supposted to go. So, we hopped on Hourglass knowing that it's not supposed to come into condition until June or so. The route was just snow and rock, and lots of spindrift, but we had a blast and enjoyed six long pitches of spectacular climbing, a great summit and an adventurous decent down the south-east gully. I'll post picture... more >>
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