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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Hard Times (5.11c)
By: Chris O'Connor When: May 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't think it was so sketchy of a climb. The bolts seemed well placed. Good little problem in otherwise easy terrain.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Chris O'Connor When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70M rope makes it in one pitch with about 25ft of rope left. Doing it in one pitch I used my whole rack, which was triples of everything Camalot 0.5 - 3 and a few smaller cams. Amazing pitch!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire
By: Chris O'Connor When: Apr 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you Ron. Does any one know any information about older routes uphill from diving for Kipper snacks and/or to the right of Upper Krishna formation? I think this is the area where Helix, Old and Easy, and Eat my lichen would lie.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The view form here is just awesome!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed nut on the 1st pitch is no longer good. The Cable snapped under my body weight only, it was pretty frayed. I was unable to clean the darn thing, so its still fixed. It doesn't want to come out, and unfortunately it is blocking the placement of new gear. I hope someone can get it out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm glad this route was bolted, because I would never want to lead it trad, and I have led other routes at this crag with trad gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : The Unlead (5.11b X)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right-facing seam just below the anchors seemed about 11b to me, and would make sense as the arete between the Unsaid and Washington Irving. The crux to me pulled around the arete from left to right into the corner slab and the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Puff Daddy (5.10a)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route Ron!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Hold The Line (5.9)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Above the wedged chockstone I pulled on a jug only to be shocked by finding my stomach jumping out of my mouth. I yelled rock and the 20-35 lb block landed 15ft from my belayer! Man, we were lucky. Just thought I'd let everyone know there is more potentially loose rock up there, surprising because the rock looks and most of it is great. Wear your brain bucket!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Chris O'Connor When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is some loose rock still on Tonnere Tower, bring a helmet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Total Eclipse (5.10a)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is still a lot of loose rock up on Tonnere. I knocked off a bunch of large blocks next to the belay on top of pitch one. Glad this place isn't too popular yet.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Crazy Alice (5.8)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Aug 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally classic, my first real trad lead. Excellent for an intro to trad climbing or on a breezy day.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II : Candelaria's Crack (5.12a)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the crux to be right above the lip of the overhang, where the crack opens up. I mostly used face holds at this point, making full use of the arete on the right. TR rope solo was my choice for pro, but it seems like placing pro would be strenuous to say the least.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts? I haven't seen bolts here? There is one old bolt on an old 'aid' project, but I think that's it. Could someone provide more info?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Lily and the Jack of Hearts (5.11-)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun bouldery feeling route, but a bit dirty. I suggest belaying off to the side to avoid being showered with grit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: However most other access points are free. Camping cost the price of a permit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! Great photo!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Unknown Left Side (5.5)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route for beginners.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: While the short crux section was nice, be aware of the loose talus on every ledge. WEAR A HELMET!!! I was up on YBL and the three climbs above it on the 4th, and it was a pleasant afternoon. Until we started packing up our stuff at the base to leave when we heard rock fall, I started to run but got hit by a baseball-size rock. The rock fall was natural from what we could see. There is a lot of loose rock in this area. When we pulled our rope a computer-sized rock came flying off the face. So be ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Wired (5.9+ PG13)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jun 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out www.totalclimbing.com for snow conditions on the Diamond. Go to park conditions, or www.climbinglife.com
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jun 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site www.totalclimbing.com under park conditions.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10c)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jun 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll put in a second vote for escaping to the anchors on Left Over Stuff. With that exit, it's a perfect 30m pitch. 4 stars in my book.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Time goes on and things continue to change, those vintage Mammut bolts are finally gone, replaced with new equipment by a friendly Argentinian guy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: Chris O'Connor When: Jun 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is called Dynamometer. The first pitch I've heard is height-dependent 12-13a, and the second pitch is slabby 11d. The first four bolts or so make a great, and I thought slightly easier, link up to the first pitch of Divination.
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