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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Life.... (5.10)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhh, mystery solved.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Happy Submarine
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe this IS Lavender Butte. The other entry would imply that. Hmmm, I like the name The Happy Submarine better. Maybe I'll call the USGS and Orin Hatch (my old drug buddy- and secret gay lover) and have it made official.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Alley Cat (5.12-)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on 11/7/2009 and while it had a tendency to get a little dirty without traffic in the past, it was absolutely covered in mud inside and out, top to bottom. Horrendous. Even the anchors had collected a layer of mud. I think something above must have shifted or changed above to dump mud down the wall. I doubt it will clean up any time soon. This route is OUT! No stars. RIP.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cathedral of the Mad Feline (5.12+)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clipping the anchor is the crux!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Super Cat of the Desert (5.12)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, am I the only guy that is scared of the pillar? Most people just blow me off when I say that its not worth laybacking up that death nugget. I fully expect it to be gone one spring in my lifetime. Did it once, never again. The upper part is a splitter, sure, but you know what, I know where I can find some other splitters to do.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : From Switzerland With Love (5.13c)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trivia- Didier actually named this "I love everybody" (or some translation like that). They changed it for the movie Parallajams with his consent.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Cyborg (5.12c/d)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old plaque says 5.12. No plus, no minus. Seems like they got it right.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Forgotten Tower
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always been curious if anybody had ever climbed this before. I'd heard it had been done, but people make shit up out of the blue all the time. Any sign of previous passage?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Trilogy (5.12a R)
By: chris Kalous When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can up the quality of the top-out by bypassing Katchina Wing's final offwidth on a left leaning 5.10+ hand finger crack (see topo). This puts you near the top of Journey home and all but the last hundred feet to the exit ramp remain pretty clean.
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall
By: chris Kalous When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to the Ophir wall for the first time, pretty specifically to do Ophir Broke among others. I was very psyched to see and try this test-piece. My favorite part? Hiking up to see an old ratty fixed line on the route. No wait, I think repeatedly batting it out of the way while pumped silly leading the upper part was even better.
Look, mini-traxioning is all the craze with the friendless, but if you have a training route you want to leave a cord on, don't pick the area's most noteworthy and pr... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Christmas Tree (5.12+)
By: chris Kalous When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the crack gets a little bigger. The little blue camalots pick up the slack quite well, too.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: chris Kalous When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Posted a new and fairly accurate topo after doing the complete route with Chris Righter. The only guesswork is the pitch lengths, but they should be about right. J Wharton suggests linking pitch 2 and 3, but drag may be a problem and then detract from the absolutely sublime climbing you just completed on pitch 2. I'd suggest belaying and soaking it in!
As to Topher's above comment: On pitch 12, we put in a nut that becomes part of the anchor and the first piece for the crux climbing. It goes ju... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Inflictor (5.12-)
By: chris Kalous When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.12-)
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts tightened on 1/30/09. Good as new. The hangers get rotated when you clean or toprope with a directional. I believe this is why they loosened up. Begs the question, why two years of comments about loose bolts, but no wrenching?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: chris Kalous When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...
...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.
"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and ... more >>
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Location: UT
By: chris Kalous When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...
...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.
"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 a... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Comfortably Numb (5.10)
By: chris Kalous When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not true. Whoever did the first 6 routes in the book did this one, too.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: chris Kalous When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In July, this rig goes in the sun about 1:00 for the duration. The rating is more like 11a, with the crux being a very scary .10+ (maybe .11-) pitch near the top- "spicy" on the topo. Be ready to climb above shitty stoppers, but good holds do come, trust me. The 11a slab above is nicely protected with bolts. Why not the .10+ arete? Don't know. Even the 5.8 slab had a bolt. Anyway, good climbing over all. The raps/gully descent take a couple hours, but no poison ivy.
Also, better directions to t... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: chris Kalous When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good point! You see how fun plaques can be? Now I am really curious about that route. Unfortunately, Caruthers is dead, R.I.P., so now there may or may not be this cool monument to him sitting out in Harts draw?! Man, I love plaques even more now! I'd love to ask Carson about it, too.
This is a great thread, by the way. Nobody really got angry or started name calling. Just more fun, good debate.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: BJ and Sam, leave me alone. You guys are like my fucking crack dealer when you send these posts!!!!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. And the moment the Monticello BLM (reasonable people, in my experience) says "What's with the plaques?", I would advocate a wholesale destruction of them. Considering they would have to drive up a road that is carved from the cliff to get to a hole in the earth that runs deeper than I had the balls to go, and they would have to step over rotting equipment and a tailings pile to see that hole, all within sight of the approach to the wall, I don't really see them ever concerning themselves... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I make 'em use 'em love 'em. Our Wall plaques are some of the best, if I do say so myself.
You know, I just spent a month in europe, france and greece, and while I don't think we should adopt all practices - like painting names at the base- one thing I do appreciate about the euros is that they generally just don't worry about stupid shit like the existance of plaques, a bolt here or there, etc. They seem to understand that only children would think that what is accepted at one area is going to... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-)
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work. Nice plaque. Looked at this a few times and couldn't get anybody psyched to do it with me. Now I I can just climb it. Thanks for the effort.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: chris Kalous When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep in mind that CO had a shitton of snow this year. It's a south-facing cliff, but a good amount of water runs off the cliff early spring. There may some wetness still. But the front side cliff is most certainly dry. Also - true story - I went down there once in early May to bolt a route and over the day, I picked off at least 60 ticks (safe estimate). It was absolutely ridiculous. I could see them in the bushes, on the grass, on my gear, on the rope. The route "Show Us Your Ticks" was born. A... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Freebird (5.10-)
By: chris Kalous When: Mar 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool. I remember seeing this line a while back. I am glad somebody did it. There are a couple more in between this and the main wall, too, I think. Looks good.
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