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Location: NH : Rumney
By: Chris Duca When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I suppose I spoke too soon...someone removed the two biners I left at the top of Underdog. I guess a couple of cheap wiregates were worth more than their safety and piece of mind.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R)
By: Chris Duca When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's about time, Matt...now you can get back to some more sane climbing!
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: Chris Duca When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left 2 leaverbiners on the anchor of Underdog today as a temporary courtesy/peace of mind to all other climbers. The drop-ins are heinously unsafe (read: nearly worn through) and need to be replaced PRONTO before someone takes the ultimate ride. I don't frequent Rumney enough to have enough forethought to take care of this myself, so if someone who is there a lot could take care of it that'd be greatly appreciated by all, I'm sure. That route is far too popular for this to go unnoticed any ... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing photo of an amazing feature!
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Thump (V5)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you talking about "Forest Thump"? The problem that starts next to/beneath the tree around the arete from "Primate"?
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Primate (V3)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Mark Troub, late '90s.
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Impossible Problem (V7)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bill Patton, late '90s.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Notch, Moss Clif... : Hard Times (5.9+)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On pitch 3, one can alternately choose to stop and belay their second on the chain anchor on the ledge out left right after the chimney section. This is the anchor for "Spirit of Adventure".
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley : The Spider's Web : Zabba (5.13a PG13)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matty,
Thanks for the post. I've been hoping that more folks like you would begin posting route descriptions for the Dacks. Post one for "Another Whack and Dangle Job", would ya?!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley : The Spider's Web : Peace In Our Climbs (5.12+ R)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the gear description, Jaime.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cosmopolitan Wall (5.10c PG13)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stredna--
Re: the "Please chill on the gear beta" comment--I am sorry if giving some critical gear beta has ruined or sanitized your personal climbing experience. I only do so to help--not hinder--climbers safely enjoy routes. If this is not your MO, I appologize.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick,
Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks!
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another shot of "Bejesus!" I got the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this problem in 2004. Good series of steep, crimpy face moves to a mellower, yet tall topout.
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Bejesus!" V4
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Within the past 5 years, multiple routes have gone in on the Quartz Crack Face. For more info, check out CRAGVTs website.
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since when has "Primate" been referred to as "Primate 3000"? Just curious.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : The Dangler (5.10a)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I whole-heartedly agree. For 10 feet of actual climbing and a photo op that's become a Gunks cliche, I don't think it's entirely worth the approach.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Le Teton (5.9+) : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo, Jay/Kayte!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.10c) : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo, Jaime! You've got me psyched on this place!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael,
A single 60m rope will get you to the ground from the chimney rappel station.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike--
I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt : In The Buff (5.7+)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you clarify the 4" Cam comment? Do you mean that this is not the same route requiring the 4" Cam as suggested by Lawyer in the new ADK guidebook, or the same placement for the Cam?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Waimea (5.10d)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Gelsa (5.4) : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why is the anchor tied off so high? I may be wrong, but isn't a tree anchor strongest when tied off by the base of the tree trunk?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Raging Raven (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'ed this route today after not having climbed it in a while, and I'd like to say, for the record, that it's stout in the grade.
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