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Location: chris deulen : Life outside of outside. : Photo
By: chris deulen When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It totally broke down, about 40 miles outside of Denver.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Beat Junkie (5.13b)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, that must be it. An old schooler was there one day and he said, "My buddy lead that on gear in the 80's." "That" must've been Skewer.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Beat Junkie (5.13b)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was led on gear in the 80s...Was there a prior FA to Mushial's?
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Agro Shagg (5.13b/c)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "When you're in deep shit and no one else can help you..."
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : When the fat lady sings (5.13c)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, obesity and illegitimacy are a must for this route.
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Brewer's Park : Brewer's Arete (5.13-)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guess not. I moved away. I got my money on Adam V for next summer. But honestly, it's probably 13d/14a...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: chris deulen When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A. Lee, thanks. I wish I had enjoyed it as much as I hoped I would.
B. Jay, I'm not from Minnesota; though that would be something I would brag about (I just lived there last year; great state!). Sandbagging is a sport out there for sure.
C. Yes, 12c. I've been on Tsunami like 10 times now and still have had no luck (you can email me any secret beta...). I guess I would also call it a sandbag, and definitely weigh it in at 5.12d. I thought Restless Native was harder than Bi... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: chris deulen When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had heard a lot of great things about this route; it sounded stellar, exciting, and worth a good effort. In hindsight (not that I could've known), I regret wasting time even thinking about it, let alone wasting part of a day climbing on it. If this route were at any other local crag in the US, it would be totally worth while. But at Waimea this thing is j.v. material. It's "little" brother to the left, Tsunami, is about a 150,007 times better. Tsunami is more aesthetic, is longer, h... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Tsunami (5.12c)
By: chris deulen When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is rediculass.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Shagg It (5.12d)
By: chris deulen When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at the crag.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : The Long and Short of It (5.12a/b)
By: chris deulen When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the 2nd climb in from the far left. Or the 2nd route that one comes to upon entrance to Shagg.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Looney Tunes (5.12b/c)
By: chris deulen When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very hard to onsight.
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Location: chris deulen : Life outside of outside. : Photo
By: chris deulen When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More than we could afford. We had to put the baby back.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Screw It (5.12b)
By: chris deulen When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No worries! Climb on.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Screw It (5.12b)
By: chris deulen When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I don't have the number of bolts, I feel my description is adequate (though I will try to add a picture as soon as I can). It should be implied that the route finishes on Zag Shagg and that a number of slings is needed. Even if there are chains at the top, that shouldn't effect the amount of gear you bring. Someone may have removed them since this post. Someone may have added them. Most climbing areas I've been to don't have chains, and the ones that do are priviledged. Descriptions should... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Yellow Matter Custard (5.13a)
By: chris deulen When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does the end of this route shoot off to the huge flake to the right and then back to the slopy jug just below the anchors?
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b)
By: chris deulen When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sick route. Make sure you show up early before the aloof locals camp out all day while cutting in front of you.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: chris deulen When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If by "crux 4th pitch" you mean the random 8 foot boulder problem at the top with a good ledge below it, then yeah, definitely cruxy. Kinda silly, but fun nonetheless.
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Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Arm and Hammer (5.11b)
By: chris deulen When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way on God's green earth that this thing is 11b! If Tropicana is 11a, this thing is at least 11d. Maybe bc the FA was in 1988? Not sure, but way harder than the suggested grade. I've been on 12s easier than this thing. That said, the movement on this route is amazing and fun.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: chris deulen When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the best 5.11 in America. Have I been on all of them? No. Have I climbed everywhere? No. But until I find one better, for my money this is as good as the grade gets. Tremendous and exhilarating.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag
By: chris deulen When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged.
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Location: Dave Russell : pics : Photo
By: chris deulen When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's all the sporty pictures?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: chris deulen When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #4 would fit perfect in the offwidth section, with a bomber nut just below it. Also, I got a great purple tcu in the roof seam. I thought this protected fine. The wild overhang just after the start of the 3rd pitch is amazing. Get on this thing and go for it!
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Brewer's Park : Brewer's Arete (5.13-)
By: chris deulen When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this climb is amazing. It's like all the good hard parts of a route condensed into 30 feet of burliness. If you want to boulder it, I would recommend you have it sufficiently dialed on TR. Watching "Committed" several times, taking a hit of coke, and slipping on some Depends beforehand is also recommended. I brought a pad and placed it so it sat just over the edge, held on by a .75 cam with a long piece of webbing a little ways up, just to protect the crux on lead. If anyone wants to sho... more >>
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Little Foxx Canyon : South Little Foxx : The Depression Wall : The Bipolar Traverse (V7)
By: chris deulen When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job dude! Ima get this thing tonight! V6, huh?
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