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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Vulture Walls : Pay Homage (5.12a/b)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: David, I used the horrible sidepull/crimp for my left hand and the slick cobble for my right. There is a good right foot and then a toss gets it done. Good luck!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Bottom Side Down (5.10d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 2/3 of the way up, in the middle of the slabs is a loose block. It is the obvious big jug. It sounded hollow, but didn't shift a lot. Be careful!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Choss Temple : Worshippers (5.12b/c)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool position; dirty so-so climbing.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : LSD Wall : Orange Sunshine (5.12c)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is unlike any at DH. It has long reaches on big slopey holds and not one small/crimpy hold. Packs a punch in its 8 bolts.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mountain Gazette article on Castlewood:
www.mountaingazette.com/news/mountain_notebook/boys_of_the_wood
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn that was fun. Great pic Jay man!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Bozo No No (5.11a)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climber is on Bozo No No, not Rain Dance. You can see the crux crack of RD in the right of the photo.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Cobble Wobble (5.10c) : Photo
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climber is on Icerigger; not Cobble.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Cave Wall : Gun Control (5.11a R)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is nothing R about this route. It is safe as can be; there are only 4 bolts.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually jleining, I think you are pathetic for being a jerk. Whenever I was working this route and then seconding it to clean, it hammers your rope over the edge. Did you not notice this? Did you not notice all the precarious/fractured/loose rock at the top? I like to be safe.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the routes that I have done here top out too high in my opinion as well. I have noticed this in a lot of new routes lately; that the climb should 'stop' at a certain point, but for extra mileage they go to the top of the wall causing communication and backclean problems.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Matriarch (5.12d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOOSE BLOCK on Matriarch!
The 'flake' after the crux (immediately before the lying down rest) is VERY loose!
You use this thing on both routes (Presto/Matriarch) and the right side of the flake is detached yet the left side seems solidly held to the wall. The right side is moving. I am hoping to get up there with some epoxy to reinforce, but I have never done that type of work on a route before, so if anyone has the motivation please go take a look. Otherwise, I will see what I can do.
Althoug... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOOSE BLOCK on Presto!
The 'flake' after the traverse (after clipping bolt 5, you traverse left above Matriarch and use this flake) is VERY loose.
You use this thing on both routes and the right side of the flake is detached yet the left side seems solidly held to the wall. The right side is moving. I am hoping to get up there with some epoxy to reinforce, but I have never done that type of work on a route before, so if anyone has the motivation please go take a look. Otherwise, I will see what... more >>
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jables!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know the equipper of this route so we can contact to change the anchor's location? This is something that is needed to be done ASAP.
Is this something we need to get 'permission' for?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: BURL! Climbs a lot longer and harder than it looks, well it looks pretty stout (and it is!).
There is a fixed chain/biner on the last bolt on the lip of the wall. Are people clipping this and lowering off of the one bolt? Going to the anchors looks sketchy as the rock quality does not look solid. But, lowering off this one bolt seems just as bad as it grinds your rope into the rock.
How are people cleaning or lowering off this thing?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Crag Rancher (5.12a)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!
There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.
The sheer genius of it all....
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shots, and you are dead on as far as the pictures/routes.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Cheesedick Soiree (5.12a)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I broke a few holds off the start of this route a few years ago, and after getting on it again last night I still think this climb is only 12a. The bottom direct start is harder than the top crux.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I belayed Josh on this. He got it on his first 'real' go. It was impressive, and I know that if anyone can speak to grades, it is Josh. I have seen him spend a lot more time on climbs at lower grades. Great route!
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder how long that Manta ray flake is going to stay?
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The developers did an excellent job on this area. The hike is long but not too hard, and is well marked with cairns and red tags along the way. Great place to climb and find some solitude.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Point of Entry (5.10+)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route, but really only one move of 5.10 at the first roof. Two bolts and small gear on the final headwall.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Storm (5.12)
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this route intended to link up with either Starlight or the route to the right?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Chris Cavallaro When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is this climb, and where is it?
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