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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Left Arete (V2)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So I did the squat-start yesterday and it is way more fun than just doing a standing start. To actually do a sit-start, the left had would use a really bad crimp/pinch then a hard toss up. This would be much harder than V2.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Tourist Overlook : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, it looks like the Pit of Sarlack.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Sidewinder (5.10+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route takes much more rope to lower than the routes to the left, which the book says are longer. Better hope you have one of those "long" 60's. When lowering, unclipping some of the draws way right might give more rope, and staying clipped to the other side will help get you back to the belay spot. The climbing is very interesting and sustained.
12 bolts + chains.
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Location: Sasquach : It's a crappy job but someb... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look's fine to me.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Jibba Jabba (V2)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun problem.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : Vista Boulder
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is so easy to get to it should be on your regular bouldering circuit. Remember to stay on the ridge, it's about 5 minutes from the car.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Silverbell Boulders
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone explored other bouldering options in the larger area of the northern Tucson Mts? Seems like there should be more between Gates and Silverbell.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a pretty juggy rest.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : The Planet Eater (5.11)
By: Chris Prewitt When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The topo in the book breaks this out in three pitches and it seems like it might be tough to link 1&2 for only two pitches. The total length seems to be closer to 260'
When doing all three pitches, is it possible to rap to the ground in two raps with one rope? The book made it sound like two 80' raps get back down. Unless we missed something, the first rap (last pitch) was way more than half of a rope 130'. Schenanigans made up the difference.
This felt like a very sustained and interesting o... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Obviously You're Not A Golf... (5.10-)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great name. What about Carpet Pissers or Amphibious Rodent?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek : Crack Attack (5.9+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On a couple occasions I recall there being a damp section in the middle of the crack around where it doglegs right. Not enough to stay away, but a little more interesting that way.
Excellent splitter. Makes you rethink why this is called Indian Creek Crag.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great photo to try guessing what is going through his head. "oh no, I think I lost my wallet" or "All this taking in the local flavor is taking it's toll in my pants." Probably more like, "are there any jugs up here?"
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty intense!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : A Marriage Reality (5.11)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did I read that right, 30 foot ROOF crack? Awesome!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cragaholic's Dream takes the dihedral/roof at the lower left corner. Route goes up crack on right of roof (L is 'Instant ReSpray Var.) 3 is up the crack in gray rock. Next, across and up the dark "L" to the bushy ledge between 4&5. 5 goes up the black streak. Rappels come down the big brown wavy cracks immediatley right of the climb. Scramble down from the bigger patch of trees to reach first rappel slings.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possiblity for some ultra high quality bouldering in and around the wash on the way to Squaretop. The hike would probably take 45 minutes with pads.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop : Cragaholic's Dream (5.10a/b)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this yesterday in perfect shady temps. What an amazing climb. P2 might be the best pitch of climbing at the grade I've done in southern Arizona. Engaging moves on every other pitch. Slot midway up P3 is interesting. Short wide crack on 4 is cute. P5 is incredibly awkward and insecure feeling in the beginning, a real sleeper pitch. P6 let's you run to the top with downpressure.
The entire descent feels like one step further into a possible bad idea. With a seemingly high probability of ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Airgasm (5.10)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this route. I probably wouldn't have gotten on it going off the guidebook. Not like most of the gear routes on the mountain.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Blood Book (5.10-)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Dec 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A rarity for Mount Lemmon: a true dihedral crack climb. Terrific stances to make placing pro a breeze. Very fun climbing.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Black Water (5.10)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Dec 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a great alternate start I suggest climbing the short, splitter finger crack just right of the initial corner. It makes for some awesome locks right off the bat, and since you get a good rest after the grade doesn't change. The rest of the climb is very engaging. One of the better gear routes I've done on this mountain.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description makes absolutly no sense at all. I never saw a single bolt on this pitch. Also, no mention is made of the OBVIOUS SPLITTER FINGER CRACK!!! Watch out for the big blocks and mind the rope drag before stepping onto the face to gain the crack. Face moves to the crack were difficult, but I felt like the final face moves were the crux.
Great pitch.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : Peanut Boulders
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interested to hear feedback on problems that you did. Please make comments under individual routes.
I've only just mildly played with the start. A very stunning, tall line for sure. Just too many projects around there...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Her name is Tina. As in "Tina you fat lard, come eat your dinner!"- Napoleon Dynamite
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Ambition boulder is the formation in the very lower left of the picture. The Bridge to Nowhere and El Block are slightly off the map.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I commisioned a team of 8yr olds to make a map. It was worth the bag of Snickers. Might not be pretty, but at least its accurate.
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