Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Rehearsal of Fortune (5.11+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a REAL finger crack; not many like it on Mount Lemmon. The 11b rating is consistent with other cracks of this kind in many other areas.
Randy onsighted this yesterday along with Solar Eclipse and Solar Flare. What a great day.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Shake N Bake (5.10 PG13)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Jan 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rock and solid 5.9 climbing on this asthetic line. Drastically easier than Abra's OW.
Pitch 1 (5.9+, 100'): I found most of the climbing on the first pitch to consist heavily of left-hand fist jams and right-foot edges, with knee-rests as needed. Most of the crack contains enough subtle features inside and out to reduce thrutching. Also, well protected where you want it to be.
Pitch 2: Mostly chickenheading along the crack until the water streak, where moving up (old bolt) and left lea... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon
By: Chris Prewitt When: Dec 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shuttle Fee as of 12/09: $8.00
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shouldn't it be Brazilian after the bolts get the "shave"?
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak : HUB : Fat Hunk of Burning Love (V4 R)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the more proud looking boulder problems in this area. Good job Dustin. I'll be getting on it soon.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try not to get discouraged by the condition of your hands on your first few times here. Well calloused tips aren't quite enough protection from the full-palm, toothy holds encountered on most of the problems. Even after climbing at Panther long enough to build steel-belted mitts you may find yourself with bruised and bleeding digits.
|
Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Mr. Jimmy : Venom (5.10a)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Eric Ulner '91
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak : Beast Boulder : Righteous Beast (V6+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange how the loss of a jug near the end of a problem can make it climb even better, but it did. Before it was just one tough move at the end of a long stretch of jugs in a roof, now it's a pretty burly SERIES of moves. A good problem in any area; this feels like one of the very best in Southern Arizona.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak : Beast Boulder : Righteous Beast (V6+)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe, excellent work on putting it all together so quickly, and I love the name.
This will be high in the running for the best line in the whole place.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak : The Pyramid : project (V3)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating is only a guess since I have not climbed all of the moves.
|
Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Washington D.C.
|
Location: MO : Elephant Rocks State Park
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking back, I realize that climbers all over the country travel 1.5hrs to get to where they want to climb, TIA or STL. Only now I have to hike for at least 30 minutes. At E-rocks you trip over the curb and hit your head on a boulder problem.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hiking here is so much easier than the Butterfly Wall. I have some interesting pictures of those upper walls; maybe I'll get around to posting some day. Yes, those do seem too far while the boulders are a different story.
This place is worth the hike. Wait, I feel like I've said that before...
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak : Beast Boulder : Quivering Beast (V3)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All but one of these holds are jugs. It's really just a matter of having the energy to get to the end.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach is still just desert walking for part of the way, so slight changes to some of the directions may occur. Please try to avoid placing cairns until the "best" line is found by those familiar with the area.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Just Punishment (5.12)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going British on us. Cheers!
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Big Bad Wolf (V9)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alright, maybe I over-reacted. Only a #%$^&* would throw out V5 for this thing. Matt, sorry for bitting at you.
Anyway, maybe the point I was really trying to make was that we all need to be very carefull with regards to local history (remember the pioneers) and grades (fight the urge to overrate). Looks like I didn't need to worry. Really glad to see everybody jump up so quickly to defend their local bouldering.
Sounds like someone needs to start a thread.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : Matterhorn Boulder
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: True, there are many world-class bouldering destinations quite close (2-6hrs), but I can climb "good" problems here in an afternoon.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Danza Slap (V1)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Variation: climb the angling line of underclings and pinches across the to jugs on the arete, then up.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : Matterhorn Boulder
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please be sure to scub off your tick marks on this boulder. This is especially true for those working the harder problems on the Jewel Thief side.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Slab Problems (V0-1)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun start to the horn problem: begin on the slab a couple feet right, then move over to get hands on the horn, eliminating the jump start.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : The Flake Left (V6 PG13)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Putting PG13 on boulder problem ratings seems unecessary. Falling off of just about anything over head height could be risky, which is what PG13 means. If injury is certain then it get's an R. In order to hit a branch you'd have to do a flying back-flip off of the top which is not very likely. This problem is no more dangerous than any other problem on this boulder.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Big Bad Wolf (V9)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, so I take issue with this problem listed this way. First off, the problem is already mentioned multiple times WITHOUT A NAME; both on this site as well as in the Tucson Bouldering guide. Murray and the like didn't name it, so that's all there is to it. Second, the problem already had a rating of B1+, which is around V5/6. This may be a bit hard compared to most modern problems of this grade, but V9 is offensive.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Ono (V3)
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ono = delicious in Hawaiian
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Boulder C
By: Chris Prewitt When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have a feeling that heat from the fire may have weakened the flake. That thing moves enough that it will probably come off onto the next person to tug on it. Maybe best to avoid it.
|
RSS Feed
