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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact chris magness

Point Rank: # 1,175
Total Points: 578
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 19
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chris magness been climbing?










Contributions


All 213 | Routes 21 | Areas 2 | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 73 | Posts 15 | Stars 35 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Yep, second pitch is the steep swell. I wanted it to go with one bolt, but it turned out to be a tad bit strenuous.. I had to come back down for my rock shoes after drilling the second bolt!


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Thanks man! I've been eyeing these pitches for awhile. Short but really good.

The right side is pretty well tapped now; I know of a little more potential... and not all slabby stuff!


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: chris magness When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: There is a loose block toward the top of the Wheat Thin Arete that has been of concern to me; a small horizontal at it's base is a point of protection for many climbers. The block is stable. Not to the point, however, where it can provide reliable gear, and not wanting to create an unsightly (read: nasty!) scar by trundling said block, or change the route character by creating a small ledge, I chose the lesser of evils and added a bolt (on lead).

While I don't feel particularly g... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Clamshell : Infinite (5.11+ X)
By: chris magness When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: Why not restore the route?


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : New Blood (5.12a/b)
By: chris magness When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Tricam.

The placement isn't in the flake, it's in a bottoming crack hidden by the flake. The flake is bad, but the crack is good and the tricam seems solid. Wouldn't want to test it though.

A fun lead. One of two good routes on the Geriatric Wall (the other being Lost and Found). Boy Wonder strikes again!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Youth Challenge (5.10b)
By: chris magness When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Seldom sought; superb, stiff, sustained.

Alliteration aside (ha!), as good as hard 5.10 crack comes at Cathedral!

Agreed with Jason. The first pitch is more thuggish, the second techy. A must climb.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a)
By: chris magness When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Restless Outcast Direct? Really? It's the same route, just skipping a rest and exiting on the original exit. Still easy 12.


Location: NH : Crawford Notch : Bore Tide (5.10 R)
By: chris magness When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: No more spicey than other routes in this area, Bradley's description isn't too far off: just right of A Bit Short, follow bolts through a white streak and expext to simul climb after the first pitch. Head toward 1 o'clock and an aesthetic head wall. The 10a version is extremy soft.. felt 5.8+ to me tops (leading in approach shoes). The 10d appears to check in at the 10 grade, but probably toward the easier end of the spectrum. If climbing the 8+ variation, stop at a bolt just after the hea... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: chris magness When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!

NRG is one of my favorite destinations, mostly because of the varied styles. I realize that Rumney has evolved in a different way, but preserving the few remaining high quality traditional lines -- that get climbed as they are -- seems prudent to me. There are Rumney climbers that lug rucks around! I love Rumney, but shake my head at bolted trad lines (and I've drilled many dozens of bolts).

I realize this is a shitty arguement and often used to justify r/x rates rou... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: chris magness When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Missing Link isn't bolted, although it shares a start with Secret Chimp, which is (still spicey).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Yosemite Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: chris magness When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: July 2013.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : She's Out of Reach (5.11c)
By: chris magness When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: Sweet dude!! Great send, that's a freakin' huge dyno!

Updated the description, grade at 5.12 unless you have further input?


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Central Mowich Face (AI3-4 Steep Snow)
By: chris magness When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Considering this is a 3 / 4 star route, the description is quite worthless. Would anyone who has climbed the route care to update the description to reflect something more insightful?


Location: NH : Photo
By: chris magness When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Close... ha! Mt. Forist. The rock quality and climbing are reported to be quite good.

Brad White and Dave Kelly have developed a bunch of routes in recent years, mostly in that grade range. You can contact Brad at IMCS for a topo.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : East Face - Lower : Hitchcock Gully (5.5 WI3-) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Great photo, although far easier than M3/4.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Connecticut Crack (5.11a)
By: chris magness When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Madera, not sure when.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: The Single Pitch Instructor certification is just that, a guide certification for single pitch climbing which replaced the Toprope Site Manager Certification.

The SPI was an effort to strengthen and further standardize the old cert, which had no leading requirement. By requiring leads harder than 5.6, many capable climbers would be eliminated from eligibility-- a thorough knowledge of gear is necessary in some toprope scenarios, and perhaps a lead as a demo or cliff top access. Thus the requ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Paul- what's the story with the band-aid, cheek lashing, and cracked helmet?


Location: NH : Dumplington Hill (A.K.A. Th... : Bruisemasters block : Bruisemaster (5.11-)
By: chris magness When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: My arms are still cut up from this thing. Waaaaaay cool roof problem. Harder than The Bridge on Cathedral with a similar crux. 12a from the sit.


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Orenaug Park
By: chris magness When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: No, don't.

Morgan, you're an administrator, moreover a CT climber. Please don't encourage activities that could further jeopardize limited resources. A more appropriate response would have been to ask Micah to delete his comment. I cut my teeth at Orenaug and always return to run laps when I'm in town, and still feel like a steward of the area-- we all should.

Woodbury has close to 150 climbs, the tallest and greatest number are in the area under dispute. Access is sensitive and acting r... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Upper Refuse (5.5) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Time for this thread to end. I'm not an authority on the subject, but that is Upper Refuse. It's a misleading photo, the angle is incredibly tweaked. Climbers climbing this route for the first time should not expect terrain as depicted in this photo, although the corner variation is slightly more difficult the grade is probably still 5.5.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: chris magness When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: One 60 to top out, two to rap.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Photo
By: chris magness When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: That line needs to be removed; bolted lines shouldn't exist that can effect a classic trad line in anyway, visually or physically. I can donate some time.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Yosemite Crack (5.9)
By: chris magness When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: A few notes:

This pitch is not 50 feet, more like 30 feet and a few more back to an anchor stance that takes #1 and #2 Camalots, nor is it an offwidth (perhaps if you're a 5'4", 95 lb., trad chick!). My fists are a 3.5, and I had jams the whole length, rattly at the top with one #4. Approach shoes made for good feet. Stiff 5.9 seems like a reasonable grade. Well worth the effort. Walk off to the right.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : P.I. Dreams (5.10+)
By: chris magness When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Really good, an awesome link-up!


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