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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: chris magness When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While not an ideal location for a Saturday, that area of the Thin Air face is commonly used for top rope groups and self rescue work, the face is littered with horizontals.
The anchor at the end of the first pitch appears to have been left open and there are a myriad of different starts. When you bump into this scenario again (and you will) simply climb around; there are options of 5.6 to 5.8 that will always be available if groups are working to the left of the first pitch anchor. ... more >>
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Trollville (Duckshead) : Where Night Meets Light (WI4)
By: chris magness When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the wall left of Purple People Eater, bolts to a hanger. Jon was referring to it as Baby Diaper. Don't blame him for errors, he's plagued with acid flashbacks and memory loss from marijuana, not to mention liver issues from being drunk all day. Diaper Rash is the route.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Trollville (Duckshead) : Where Night Meets Light (WI4)
By: chris magness When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Diaper Rash.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice
By: chris magness When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: By climbing the more moderate Chenoo, it is possible to access the second pitch of all the routes on the Central Wall where the climbing is fun, exposed, and easier than the pitches turning the roof that comprises the first pitch of all the Central Wall long routes.
As all routes have fixed top and midpoint anchors, simply rap to climber's right, climb up and repeat. The process is fairly quick and can be completed with 1 60 M rope and allows for a good deal of climbing.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Porno Poison Ivy (5.11+ A1 R)
By: chris magness When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 11+ is the hard ass slab move getting to the crux. Could be a little bit of a sandbag.
The second pitch is one of the best of its grade at Longstack, the link-up with WLD is really a 4-star route.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Porno Poison Ivy (5.11+ A1 R)
By: chris magness When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the crux.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The V Buttress
By: chris magness When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Zeb Jakub for photo documenting the cleaning process. Establishing these routes was an unfathomable amount of work and was definitely a team effort.
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Location: NH : Hall's Ledge : The Golden Wall : Penetration (5.10d)
By: chris magness When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring small cams for the crux and doubles of #1 are helpful.
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Location: NH : Hall's Ledge
By: chris magness When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sweet, wind sheltered crag bathing in the sun with something for everyone. By the way, where's my damn t-shirt?
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Location: NH : Hall's Ledge : Magnum Block : Little White Flake (5.10c)
By: chris magness When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This feels a lot like 10+ to me. Chino grades are getting stiffer! Well, I guess it's the .10b thing.. no way Loran! Low cruxes are accessible to rehearse, but that doesn't make a ground-up, no falls, no beta onsight any easier.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: chris magness When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no runout. However, Recompense has had it's fair share of accidents-- a pro or go scenario for some where the leader pumps out and pitches off onto the sloping belay ledge. Stop and place gear, you'll be fine.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: chris magness When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a bomber stopper placement after the crack and more gear if you look for it. Although it is a little run out at the start on moderate ground, the protection on this route is excellent as is the climbing. With some creativity, the protection rating is closer to "G".
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Speck In My Eye (5.8)
By: chris magness When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really cool line for the grade, will be 3 stars with a bit more cleaning.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Graceful Tiers (5.10+)
By: chris magness When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt added, gave it a quick scrub.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Happy Ending (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt added, gave it another quick scrub.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Short Stack (5.10a/b)
By: chris magness When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has some great 5.9 climbing.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Graceful Tiers (5.10+)
By: chris magness When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Same deal as Happy Ending. Probably 3 stars when clean. A shared bolt will be added to protect the moves to the anchor.
The crux moves are extremely thought provoking.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Happy Ending (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't give this route a star rating because it needs another scrub. Mostly 5.8 climbing except for the crux. A bolt will be added to protect the moves to the anchor, currently a little spicey. This comment will be modified when route is cleaned and bolt is added.
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Location: NH : Mt. Willard : She Gave Us The Willy's (5.9)
By: chris magness When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some very interesting positioning...
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: chris magness When: Sep 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is an awesome feature..
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Brian.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Beginners Route (5.5 R)
By: chris magness When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear in the arch is great, although I usually run it and blast up the slab to the right of the arch instead and get protection in a flake at the top of the arch.
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: chris magness When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The seam is crystally, and crystals fail. The placements could improve as the crystals wear or blow out, which does happen with traffic. Nuts and cams have blown out if this particular seam (thus beginning the process of placement improvement). If you don't consider features such as crystals when you place gear, perhaps you should as the quality of your protection is greatly effected.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Wet Lichen Dreams (5.10+)
By: chris magness When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protect in the top of the crux flake from a good stance, then trend up and left on good horizontals. Bolted belay is to the left of the tree on a ledge.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
By: chris magness When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route needs to be trundled again (everywhere). The ledge above the v-groove is full of terrifying loose blocks. To avoid this step right immediately at the top of the v-groove (careful of loose holds) and up to the off width belay, or take the 5.8 variation.
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