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Member Since: Nov 6, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 7, 2014
Contact chris Kalous


Point Rank: # 947
Total Points: 645
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 0
37 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chris Kalous been climbing?










Contributions


All 262 | Routes 31 | Areas 2 | Photos 41 | Page Improvments | Comments 100 | Posts 39 | Stars 43 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Surf and Turf (5.12+)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: I just use a brown primer available at any hardware store. Really, it's about taking the shine off, so they don't have to look perfect. Like I said, it's not that big of a deal so far out. More of a good habit to get into.

I don't need to get on that route, nor does anybody else.

Did you get back this spring?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : The Kokanee Corner (5.13+)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Did ya get any pics? Post one or two!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10)
By: chris Kalous When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Well played, Mr. Mehall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Surf and Turf (5.12+)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: This thing looks rad. Did it get it done yet?

Maybe not the biggest deal on a far away cliff like SC, but I humbly suggest adding a can of brown spray primer to you bolting kit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Divide and Conquer (5.10)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I changed the description above to reflect reality a little better. I reclimbed this recently and realized that my memory had not served me well when I originally posted it here on MP.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The Hawk (5.11)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: No, its farther left. My old description, "directly between Spark it Up Sparky and Spark of the Tempest", while accurate in some sense, was utterly useless. I improved the location info above after refinding the route- which took me about 20 minutes


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Twin Cam (5.12)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: Cleaned up the anchor on this route. Chained the old, seemingly solid Hong bolts, and added a 1/2" x 6" daddy to boot.

The route is also nice and clean at the moment.

HK's description above is typical of somebody that climbs too hard for his own good;)

The gear rec in the book- including the 12 green camalots is pretty good. To give you an idea, in Camalots, I redpointed it with 2 greys, 2 purps, 12 greens, 2 reds, 1 gold. But that's a redpoint rack that I paired down.

Lowering w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10)
By: chris Kalous When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Another party pulled the piton out with hands this weekend. Putting it back in and hoping for the best us certainly not the only answer. A: replace it. B: leave a precious cam as backup (more precious than life?)

Anyway, for the time being THIS ROUTE IS NOT LEADABLE WITHOUT A BOLT KIT.

Top roping it off the left Drainpipe route is probably more fun, anyway.

Several anchors in Donnelly are double pitons ( maybe 30+ years old) with chains and due for a replacement including the left Drainpip... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black In Action (5.10+)
By: chris Kalous When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Ha. I was planning to go climb an "FA" on that pillar, basically your line, next weekend! Had only glanced at it from the overlook across the way. Not now. Good looking route. Good work.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : North Shore (5.11+)
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: This is a good summer route: a bit licheny but rarely chossy, some engaging protection and climbing. The 5 pitch is worth the price of admission alone. I posted a detailed topo, more detailed than the other version here. Beware: less adventure with my topo.

Getting off the top is a bit of an adventure, though. The rap anchor is nearly impossible to spot from the Cross Fissures overlook, so don't bother unless you have binos.

From the top, it's on a ledge that is directly above the highest par... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: chris Kalous When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: A guided photo tour to the raps based on my description above. Built some new cairns. You are rapping the wall facing the Hooker, Porcelain, Gothic Pillar. If you can't find them with this, give me a call and I will draw you a map to the Project Wall in Rifle.

The boulder just before you turn right.
The boulder just before you turn right.


The trail turn just meters before the overlook and just past the boulder.
The trail turn just meters before the overlook and just past the boulder.


Don't get lost weaving down through the rock.
Don't get lost weaving down through the rock.


Go past the cairn. You will be aiming toward the Hooker now.
Go past the cairn. You will be aiming toward the Hooker now.


This is the gully you must scramble down about 70 feet. You can not see the anchor. Go past this to scope.
This is the gully you must scramble down about 70 feet. You can not see the anchor. Go past this to scope.


If you look down from where Rob is sitting, you will see chains 70 or so feet down. Notice the cairn.
If you look down from where Rob is sitting, you will see chains 70 or so feet down. Notice the cairn.


The anchor. Very hard to see.
The anchor. Very hard to see.



Location: CO : Bill Forrest Passes Away
By: chris Kalous When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: Another great one gone! RIP, Bill Forrest. Thanks for scaring the shit out of me in the Mystery Towers and the Black!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Happy Submarine : The Undiscovered Country (5.11)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the better description, David. It was a long time ago! Didn't mean to sandbag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Learning to Fly (5.13)
By: chris Kalous When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: I'm proud to say that I finally bagged this thing a couple weeks ago. 7 year project. Point for team old.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins I (5.11-)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Pretty rough 11-.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Broken Brain (5.12b/c)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Funny. Remembering Vera topping out in the Return2sender video at the last milli-second saved me. Luckily, I had that vision rather than the Tommy picture!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins II (5.12-)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Yes, this one is a beaut!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: chris Kalous When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Scott's gear beta is spot on. Fat fingies would make this easier than Ruby's and the guys nickname is Tank, so...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: (I know this is long, but my "fans" on MP expect nothing less!)

Wow, I just got done researching the online banter about Cerro Torre for an interview with Hayden Kennedy and the tone was disheartening to say the least. But this one is a rival because its is a one man show over here.

Its true that all of us who have user names at MP are hypocrites for not wanting Hart(s) Draw on the site. I, for one, never said Mr. Horning couldn't (or shouldn't) put it here. My first comment was referring to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-)
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: BTW Brad, what did you guys do up there to make that ledge so "sloppy"?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-)
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Feb 2012. I replaced the tat with chains and added a 1/2" by 6" (yeah, buddy- 6"!) bolt to each anchor on 6 Star. Left the Hong bolts for posterity.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: By the way, technically is "Harts" with an S.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: Just had to, didn't ya, dennis? Just had to.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : South Face (5.11+)
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: So I changed "lazy or retarded", which was sarcastic but hardly "brutal", to "less than diligent" in the upper post. Perhaps my lingering fear was clouding my judgement when I wrote "retarded". Will you run the new phrasing by Mr. Toula and see if it upsets him, James? If so, I will soften it a bit more. I met the man years ago myself, nice guy. I'm sure he is glad you are running down slights on the internet for him. Ironic that someone you KNOW doesn't read stuff on the internet (is he Amish n... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : South Face (5.11+)
By: chris Kalous When: Feb 22, 2012

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Comments: Virtually all the fixed gear- anchors to pro- is questionable on this route. With all due respect for their radness, he FA party was less than diligent when it came to drilling angles. Probably a reflection of the times when the idea of future generations repeating stuff like this was an absurd thought.

Anyway, its a tall order to climb this route and take the time to carry and replace hardware, but if a few future ascents beefed an anchor or two, the route would become a hell of a lot safer a... more >>


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