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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Meat Grinder (5.10b)
By: Chris I When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Managed to get my old school purple bd #4 stuck on the beginning of p2. If a kind soul gets it out and is feeling generous I would be grateful to have it back (reward in form of beer/karma). If not, I hope it has many happy adventures ahead of it.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: Chris I When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb and much more engaging than the Tollhouse Traverse, but I would warn beginner leaders to beware of the 5.7 rating for this climb. The upper slab pitches are mentally demanding and require some precise technique. The bolts are spaced enough that a fall might not be pretty. Tons of fun, but heads up if you're expecting a casual cruiser. PS. the first pitch is a winner!
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Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Photo
By: Chris I When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, those pants are amazing!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sparkling Give-away (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a couple of finger pieces if you want to feel safe before jumping into the traverse. Otherwise you are soloing burly 5.10 and clipping the pin in the middle of the traverse seemed hard (I clipped gear and shot out to the corner directly). Bring a .75 or .5 BD if you want gear for the last few moves before the anchor (recommended). This climb is fun and perplexing at times. Highly recommended.
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Location: Chris I : Popping the trad cherry... : Photo
By: Chris I When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called Transporter Crack in the New River Gorge. 5.6 and only about 35 feet tall, but I was still pretty nervous at the time. If you make it over here again hit me up!
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Airy Interlude (5.10b)
By: Chris I When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For P2 (the traverse pitch) I was surprised at how much small gear was needed. I highly recommend bringing a bunch of small cams if you want to sew this pitch up. Even the corner at the beginning of this pitch took great small stuff. The traverse is wonderful .75 territory, but the moves are easy enough that I wasn't worried about pro. Afterward though, you'll want nuts and small cams. Did I mention that this climb is amazing?
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: Chris I When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed here with a buddy last summer. This place has tons of potential, and has been somewhat developed, but with little information and occasionally less-than-great rock quality it is easy to find yourself in a hairball situation. We managed to get into two hairball situations within a couple hours. It was a memorable day and definitely made me realize how great this place could be with a few more bolts and some more beta.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Selaginella (5.8)
By: Chris I When: Feb 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For at least the first pitch, and maybe the 3rd also, I would recommend wearing the rack (if using a gear sling) on the left side of your body. There is a fair bit of grinding on the right side that takes place and it was pretty uncomfortable and annoying having my gear in the way.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: Chris I When: Jan 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Besides the first 15 ft and the crux roof move, this climb feels like a cruiser 5.7. In fact, the awkward jamming start felt like the hardest part to me. I didn't find the miracle jug at the upper crux and it still felt 5.9. But all climbers BEWARE- the rockfall danger is real. My partner knocked a baseball size rock off of the top, even when we were being extra careful up there. Thank god it was late December and nobody was behind us. Also, I found this climb ate up small cams from finger... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Polymastia (5.10d)
By: Chris I When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Being a relative crack newb, the lower section of this was the crux for me. Ignore the supertopo gear recommendation and trust what you see. I took a couple of each in .5-1 and was glad to have them. At the shared anchor with The Tube there is a wasps nest so watch out! They get frisky on warmer days.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Tube (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware of wasps around the anchor of this climb. In warm weather they come out in force, and my buddy was being harassed by them pretty badly. The same afternoon another climber came off the climb with more than 6 stings.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Photo
By: Chris I When: Oct 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Considering the number of votes saying this photo is GREAT, it is clear that there are a lot of lonely men on this website.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Chris I When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Each pitch had a distinct crux for me. The right leg pump on P1 burnt me out. The blank corner with so-so nuts on P2 was a little tricky, and P3 was full of thrills, with some very shallow finger locks being the toughest part. For pro (understanding I'm new to this game and like to feel comfy at all times) I would take double .5-.75 bd (especially handy on the last pitch) and triple 1-3 bd for the first pitch. One #4 was used on P1 and P2, and a single set of nuts sufficed. A few smal... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) : Photo
By: Chris I When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on my experience, this topo shows the 5.7 mantle move for the finish of this route. The 5.5 version continues up the dihedral right next to the 5.7 slab.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: Chris I When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Made it to the area for the first time and opted to solo this route. Wow, awesome climbing the whole length. I got to the corner with the 3 summit options and got a little confused. The dihedral was looking pretty blank so I opted for the 5.7 mantle finish. Airy indeed! Does the dihedral offer some decent holds because it was looking too blank for my liking... especially at that height.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Plum (5.12a)
By: Chris I When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: GREAT ROUTE and the ultimate sandbag. My climbing partner jumped on this for a warmup thinking it was 10a. About 6 moves in he figured out otherwise. He ended up getting to the anchors in good style, but what a surprise.
The movement on this climb is fantastic and it is definitely worth doing. This route packs a punch from start to finish.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Ewetopia (5.12a)
By: Chris I When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: May 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is in the top 10 if not the top 5 5.11s at Table. This climb is pretty much business from bottom to top and a true delight. If climbed directly without getting into the chimney in the upper left of the route, this is definitely a test piece for the grade at Table. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Facts Wall : Totality of Facts (5.11d)
By: Chris I When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jumped on this one not knowing what it was. I really enjoyed the wild beta pulling over the roof. Rock quality on this one is an issue, but with more traffic it will probably clean up a bit. Clipping the last bolt is definitely spooky, especially on the questionable holds. All in all a good time though. And 11d seems pretty fair.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c) : Photo
By: Chris I When: Apr 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just one piece could keep you and your partner from having a very bad day!
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Location: CO : National Geographic - Yosem...
By: Chris I When: Apr 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this. Cool article. The last paragraph sums it up magnificently!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Fix (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: Mar 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be fun despite the chipped holds. The roof is interesting and a little pumpy. The technical crux came after the roof when I tried to avoid using the possibly chipped pocket through the blank face (although the pocket is less obviously chipped than other holds higher on this route, maybe because spiders have inhabited it). I was able to avoid using chipped holds the whole way up until the jug just below the anchors. I did not know this was a chipped hold until I grabbed ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : F.A.T.A.L. (5.10a)
By: Chris I When: Mar 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is tricky for your typical sport climber (me). I took a weird fall right in the middle of the dihedral and managed to bonk my head on the arete pretty good. I then managed to send, but NEWBIE BEWARE! Not your typical Table 10- in the least. Super fun though. For pure technique and style points, I think this is one of the most fun 10s at Table. Too bad it's not longer.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Bush Loves Detroit (5.8)
By: Chris I When: Mar 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To make this climb a little more interesting, one could avoid using some of the obvious face holds around this climb and stick to jamming the crack. This is a fun little lead, but the many face and stemming options take away from the great hand-crack. The lower crack takes small cams and medium nuts and the upper crack eats #1-2 cams. Enjoy.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Barracuda (5.13d) : Photo
By: Chris I When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The icicles give you an idea of how overhung that wall is. Waimea is amazing!
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