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First trad lead.


Member Since: Nov 4, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,628
Total Points: 118
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris I been climbing?










Contributions


All 405 | Routes | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvments | Comments 43 | Posts 57 | Stars 154 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Demon's Delight (5.11a PG13)
By: Chris I When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Outstanding route, especially if you like underclinging and laybacking! 4x #1 camalot was good beta. As of now there is a fixed nut just below the mantle crux which was nice. I probably whipped on it more than a dozen times trying to figure out that move. I'm very interested in the secret undercling beta for the last pitch mantle because I couldn't make it happen. All cruxes have good gear. I would go as small as 2x purple metolius on my rack, otherwise the rack beta is spot on.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Proud Snapper (5.10b)
By: Chris I When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I thought the supertopo gear recommendation was spot on for this route, especially if you want to sew it up. My only comment would be to bring a few extra alpine draws or even regular draws to extend off of the bolts and gear since this route moves around a bit. There's gear and jugs before and after the crux, making this a comfortable lead.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Hooter Alert (5.10c)
By: Chris I When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: This is an interesting climb with features just where you need them. It was a little frustrating at first having the second crux right at the anchors, but once you unlock the sequence, it's actually some of the coolest moves on the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Just Do Me (5.10d)
By: Chris I When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I placed a #4 bd and a .75 before getting to the first bolt and was glad to have them. I clipped the rusty pin, but really had no faith in it; it looks pretty rotten. I was able to no hands rest as much as I wanted before the crux, but misread the moves. From the roof to the chains is demanding and exciting. Fun route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Left : Golden Needles (5.8)
By: Chris I When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: I second Osprey's comments. There is a lot of great hand jamming on this route, and a beginner looking for some steep jamming should definitely get on this. There is plentiful gear for all of the tough spots except for the final move. I thought the last move reaching for the monster nob just above the small tree was the mental crux for sure. I'm 6' tall and couldn't make the spread. With no gear around and a balancy move, you don't want to mess up there. I was able to lead this in one 70m ... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Chimney Rocks : Chimney Spire : Kitty From Hell (5.10d)
By: Chris I When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This route is outstanding. Sustained and varied climbing, good pro (until some sections of P4), and total solitude. The rack recommendation here is spot on, minus the 5. My buddy and I had 1 BD 4 and a BD 5 and found out the hard way that we needed 2 4's and no 5. Pitch 3 is about 40-50 of #3 and #4 sized crack, so make sure you have a couple of each. Despite a little lichen here and there, the quality of this route was surprising. The descent is via two bolted rappels (maybe t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Keystone Corner (5.8)
By: Chris I When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Scotty that going direct was cool, and harder. I'd say more like a couple of 5.9 moves, but if you save a .5 and .75 it's very comfortable. Stepping right into the chimney is still fun, but doesn't seem as cool.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Meat Grinder (5.10b)
By: Chris I When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Managed to get my old school purple bd #4 stuck on the beginning of p2. If a kind soul gets it out and is feeling generous I would be grateful to have it back (reward in form of beer/karma). If not, I hope it has many happy adventures ahead of it.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: Chris I When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: This is a great climb and much more engaging than the Tollhouse Traverse, but I would warn beginner leaders to beware of the 5.7 rating for this climb. The upper slab pitches are mentally demanding and require some precise technique. The bolts are spaced enough that a fall might not be pretty. Tons of fun, but heads up if you're expecting a casual cruiser. PS. the first pitch is a winner!


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Photo
By: Chris I When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: Wow, those pants are amazing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sparkling Give-away (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Bring a couple of finger pieces if you want to feel safe before jumping into the traverse. Otherwise you are soloing burly 5.10 and clipping the pin in the middle of the traverse seemed hard (I clipped gear and shot out to the corner directly). Bring a .75 or .5 BD if you want gear for the last few moves before the anchor (recommended). This climb is fun and perplexing at times. Highly recommended.


Location: Chris I : Popping the trad cherry... : Photo
By: Chris I When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: It's called Transporter Crack in the New River Gorge. 5.6 and only about 35 feet tall, but I was still pretty nervous at the time. If you make it over here again hit me up!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Airy Interlude (5.10b)
By: Chris I When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: For P2 (the traverse pitch) I was surprised at how much small gear was needed. I highly recommend bringing a bunch of small cams if you want to sew this pitch up. Even the corner at the beginning of this pitch took great small stuff. The traverse is wonderful .75 territory, but the moves are easy enough that I wasn't worried about pro. Afterward though, you'll want nuts and small cams. Did I mention that this climb is amazing?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: Chris I When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Climbed here with a buddy last summer. This place has tons of potential, and has been somewhat developed, but with little information and occasionally less-than-great rock quality it is easy to find yourself in a hairball situation. We managed to get into two hairball situations within a couple hours. It was a memorable day and definitely made me realize how great this place could be with a few more bolts and some more beta.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Selaginella (5.8)
By: Chris I When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: For at least the first pitch, and maybe the 3rd also, I would recommend wearing the rack (if using a gear sling) on the left side of your body. There is a fair bit of grinding on the right side that takes place and it was pretty uncomfortable and annoying having my gear in the way.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: Chris I When: Jan 6, 2012

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Comments: Besides the first 15 ft and the crux roof move, this climb feels like a cruiser 5.7. In fact, the awkward jamming start felt like the hardest part to me. I didn't find the miracle jug at the upper crux and it still felt 5.9. But all climbers BEWARE- the rockfall danger is real. My partner knocked a baseball size rock off of the top, even when we were being extra careful up there. Thank god it was late December and nobody was behind us. Also, I found this climb ate up small cams from finger... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Polymastia (5.10d)
By: Chris I When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: Being a relative crack newb, the lower section of this was the crux for me. Ignore the supertopo gear recommendation and trust what you see. I took a couple of each in .5-1 and was glad to have them. At the shared anchor with The Tube there is a wasps nest so watch out! They get frisky on warmer days.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Tube (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: Beware of wasps around the anchor of this climb. In warm weather they come out in force, and my buddy was being harassed by them pretty badly. The same afternoon another climber came off the climb with more than 6 stings.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Photo
By: Chris I When: Oct 6, 2011

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Comments: Wow. Considering the number of votes saying this photo is GREAT, it is clear that there are a lot of lonely men on this website.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Chris I When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Each pitch had a distinct crux for me. The right leg pump on P1 burnt me out. The blank corner with so-so nuts on P2 was a little tricky, and P3 was full of thrills, with some very shallow finger locks being the toughest part. For pro (understanding I'm new to this game and like to feel comfy at all times) I would take double .5-.75 bd (especially handy on the last pitch) and triple 1-3 bd for the first pitch. One #4 was used on P1 and P2, and a single set of nuts sufficed. A few smal... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) : Photo
By: Chris I When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: Based on my experience, this topo shows the 5.7 mantle move for the finish of this route. The 5.5 version continues up the dihedral right next to the 5.7 slab.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: Chris I When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: Made it to the area for the first time and opted to solo this route. Wow, awesome climbing the whole length. I got to the corner with the 3 summit options and got a little confused. The dihedral was looking pretty blank so I opted for the 5.7 mantle finish. Airy indeed! Does the dihedral offer some decent holds because it was looking too blank for my liking... especially at that height.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Plum (5.12a)
By: Chris I When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: GREAT ROUTE and the ultimate sandbag. My climbing partner jumped on this for a warmup thinking it was 10a. About 6 moves in he figured out otherwise. He ended up getting to the anchors in good style, but what a surprise.

The movement on this climb is fantastic and it is definitely worth doing. This route packs a punch from start to finish.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Ewetopia (5.12a)
By: Chris I When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Chris I When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: This route is in the top 10 if not the top 5 5.11s at Table. This climb is pretty much business from bottom to top and a true delight. If climbed directly without getting into the chimney in the upper left of the route, this is definitely a test piece for the grade at Table. Enjoy!


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