Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a good small Alien (black or blue-black) placement in the vacinity of the RP that you mention. This takes all the "s" out of that section of the route. I believe the S rating does apply at the start of the route when one has to traverse 15 ft. right without gear from the initial corner (aerial book) to the first bolt and the start of the diffuculties.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that P3 in the book is somewhere to the left of where everyone ends up. I found myself at "Myke's Stopper" confused as hell and wondering where the hell to go. I ended up doing a funky traverse left (it felt harder than .9) and then back right again when I found some chalk higher up. Anyway, next time I'll experiment to the left.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must say that I climbed Granny's in late summer and the bird poop was horrible. I had to wipe my shoes off before starting up the crux. That little nest of slings and the footholds above it were flowing with dookie. I'm sure it's a different story in winter, but be forewarned.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are those .8 "+"? I wasn't sure. I'm sure you're right though Richard. How about in Eldo...
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 8, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route again a couple days ago. My partner and I have decided that this is potentially the best route of it's grade anywhere. Anyone disagree?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a comment about the marking of the first pitch of Outer Space (#14) in the above photo. The actual route takes the heavily chalked dihedral that is 15 ft. or so right of the one marked in the picture. The only reason I bring this up, is that I have seen people attempting to climb Outer Space who have wandered up this first corner by accident (I believe it's part of Wide Country). So to any of you who are uncertain about how far to traverse from the Bastille Crack to Outer Space, i... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's also a variation to the second pitch that is pretty fun. Climb up, clip the bolt and traverse on thin holds out right to the arete (awkward/a little airy/scary) then climb up the face. It's about .8+, so it's a bit easier than the normal route. It's also a little more interesting. Quick note on the pins on the first pitch. One of them is missing as of this fall. I think it was the lower one but I could be wrong. It is possible to back up the pin with gear however.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Feb 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If combining 3 and 4 belay at the pin that darin speaks of, or a little above. It's almost 200 ft. from there to the base of the last pitch. exposure on the last layback is sweet. there's a cool kneelock rest too
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jan 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route finding on the first few pitches is confusing. The large gully Aaron speaks of is nasty and kind of loose, but really easy. As soon as you clear that though, the Love route delivers. Great climbing.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jan 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're right Tony. I guess I got a little carried away with the offset Aliens. I love those things! You definitely do not need them on this route. They are merely useful...
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jan 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're doing this route (as everyone should) and you make it through the last corner feeling strong, there is an exciting roof-exit option called Vulcans Don't Lie. It's so short it isn't really worthy of an entry all its own; however, it is worth doing if one is courageous enough. I had the luxury of doing it on TR and found poor gear and big rattling flakes. Starting at the base of the roof at the end of pitch three it climbs up, out and left. There is/was a small fixed cam here (... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jan 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Laughing at the Moon is superfun. It is possible to combine Muscular Distrophy (I think) with the route
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jan 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is also ideal for a rain storm. Just make sure that you make it to the headwall before the rain hits. The lower slabs woulnd't be fun when wet. My partner and I were climbing the last pitch when it started raining. The entire canyon got pretty soaked for atleast 20 minutes, but I had no idea it was even raining (probably because I was being dive-bombed by birds while their friends flung poo in my face from within the crack). Enjoy.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 26, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Near the top of the first pitch, just before it gets overhung for a few moves, there is a really solid #9 Stopper placement. This is directly below the left-slanting undercling crack in a little slot. This piece provides a little reassurance as opposed to placing iffy cams in the crack.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Silver Raven (5.11d)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 26, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perilous Journey (5.11b X)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 21, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have never done this route. I do, however, have a question about the rating of both this and Krystal Klyr. Are they both .11b? Is one 11d and the other .11b? I'm only interested, because I think that these two routes are probably best done in the style they were first climbed in. To me, there's a bit of a difference between "b" and "d", and I'd just like to know. Maybe someday (10 years from now), I'll have the balls/ability/mind control to go after one of these babies from the ground up. A... more >>
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 14, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: All I have to say is that this is a very height-dependant move. I am about 6'1" or 6'2" and I can do this move with my right hand on the starting hold. If one is much shorter, a full-on dino is necessary, making the stick quite a bit harder. Whether or not it's V5, I don't know. It's certainly a lot easier for me than Helicopter (Morrison).
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 14, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second David's assertion of the 11c rating. Aerospace is definitely harder than Aerohead.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Recovery (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 11, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route feels about a grade easier than the rating. Maybe 11a if you're generous. Nevertheless, a fun, quality line.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 11, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to go with 5.11a max. This route had one 11 move at the third "crux", but you get an awesome rest before and after it. All the ledges make for a very easy onsight. Without those, it might be harder.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Faulty Logic (5.10a)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 11, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I definitely think otherwise. This route deserves two stars. The rock is good, and the first crux is really fun. I'm really only talking about the first pitch though.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 11, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd just like to comment on the quality of pitch two. I love this pitch. Great stemming and positive edges! It works quite well to combing pitch one and pitch two. As for the S rating, bring RP's and save some very small cams for the top. The last move around the corner is a little scary without the proper gear.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 11, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must say that this route deserves atleast two stars. Good rock, good moves, good line. Plus if you combine it with Outer Space, it's one of the most fun/best 5.10's in the canyon if not the front range.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Nov 5, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called FM. Probably the best line on the Elephant Buttresses.
|
RSS Feed
