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Rock Climbing Photo: Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 275
Total Points: 2,398
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 73
78 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1203 | Routes 44 | Areas 27 | Photos 273 | Page Improvements | Comments 188 | Posts 436 | Stars 203 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Medicine Man (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Wish I'd read these posts before I went out on this one today...or perhaps it's best I didn't!

I was pretty sure I was off-route on the slab above the second pitch, since there's really no pro until you get a pin scar near the top of the slab. Pretty good feet for slab...there are a bunch of black inclusions in the rock that seem to give a pretty good purchase, but there's no hands. Run-out is maybe 20-25 feet. Not sure. Merits a PG13 probably?

Get gear under the roof you go over to... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : West Lark (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: A fun easy route. Sunny until 4pm today, so don't expect shade just because it faces north.

Attempting to link pitches on this wasn't much of a success (for us anyway); easy, comfortable belays are not plentiful on this route, so probably best to stop at the decent spots and take your time. It's a nice route with a few pleasant surprises.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Slab (5.8 R)
By: Chris D When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: The route description is incorrect.

There is a dogleg hand crack that heads out onto the face of the slab to the right just above a ledge at the end of the crux lieback.

Take this crack out onto the outside of the slab and up from there. The route does not follow the lieback all the way to the top of the slab as described.

Don't mistake this for Fingertrip. This route starts under a large OAK tree. Fingertrip starts under a large PINE tree.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: like the guidebooks say, pay attention at the top of the route for loose rock, and not just until you've unroped at the tree.

Rocks you turn loose on your way to the descent will rocket down the dihedral, launching onto climbers below you. Just pay attention.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : Beginner's Two (5.5)
By: Chris D When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: I think I protected this the same way Joseph Stover described above, minus the .75. I just girth-hitched the bathtub arch for an anchor. I was looking pretty thoroughly for gear placements, and there are very few. The high crux of this route is a low-angle, funky, shallow off-width. If you're not at least a little familiar with off-widths I wouldn't recommend leading this. I took a #5 C4 and it was nothing but dead weight. Everything's too wide for it.

Looking up at the line from th... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Double Dogleg (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face.

What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. I... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Swain In The Breeze (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: I think the initial crack up to the ledge would have been easier if I'd liebacked it, but wanted to get good gear, so climbed the awkward off-width with arm bars and foot cams. Some work.

Above the ledge this route somehow reminded me of the SW Corner of Headstone Rock. The hanger-less buttonheads make for good pro when you slide a small nut on them.

Fun route, and a good way to start the day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Wall of 10,000 Holds (5.4 R)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those routes at Josh that half will love and the other half will cry about the approach because they have too much tunnel-vision to realize that the approach is part of the climb. This one especially. You scramble through the usual boulder field, then either climb the bottom of 5.6 Swain in the Breeze, 5.8 Ohwhatafooliam, or take a "ramp" to a small ledge with a "sunken garden." We went up Swain, and I don't know where the "ramp" is, but from the ledge, you scoot up a slot on t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Owatafooliam (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: Man, was I glad I TRed this one instead of leading it. Basically a 50-foot lieback on gravelly, crappy rock that probably wouldn't clean up even if it got climbed more than once a year, which it probably doesn't. The rock is so crumbly that I would be pretty concerned about gear pulling on lead. Your right foot is your best friend, and the only thing you'll be able to bear jamming on this route.

probably a good climb to practice laybacks on...if you do them wrong here, your feet will quickly... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Bush Crack (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: ranger station rock is a nice quiet spot with good moderate climbs. This crack is a lot of fun,and a real treat if you enjoy jamming. Unlike many josh jam cracks, this one actually requires jamming, especially hands, and the hands are good. Short, but really quality and an easy walk-off to the left.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Island Area : Island Wall : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Well, you seemed to be in pretty good shape to me. I'd a been cryin like a little girl.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Dilly Bar (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: This is all manner of fun, and rounds out DQ wall with a mild warm-up to get you started.

It is also 5.5. Looking up at it, I thought "5.5...another fat sandbag!" but was surprised to find nothing on the route much harder than 5.4.

The chimney near the top and the top out are a treat.

All the pro you could want, and then some.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Bill's Nuts (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Don't waste your time trying to place gear in the flaring cracks at the top. All you'll do is puzzle and pump yourself.

Only an "okay" route compared to some of the quality moderates on DQ wall.

Not sure how the start of this route merits three different variations where the jugs start...?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: This climb is great, and one I was glad to be following rather than leading. The chimney at the bottom can be climbed a lot of different ways. Though strenuous, I though it was as much an enjoyable component of the climb as any other part, maybe moreso, if you like problem solving. You don't need to temporarily leave the chimney/off-width at the first big block on the right as some do. There's a spot where I found making a couple of moves facing straight out made life easier.

Another thing I... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Dress Rehearsal (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Fun start like many of the other routes on this wall, but the real treat is the unexpectedly airy crux moves up the crack to the arete at the top of the climb.

Throw a runner over the horn on top of the arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: This formation has an easy, fun downclimb, and a pair of quick-links you can rap off of at the top of The Irritators.

Don't rap directly on the bolt hangers at the top of Psycho Groove. We saw no fewer than three groups use these standard bolt hangers as rap rings today. Have to assume they were sport climbers who haven't ever seen an anchor setup not designed for rappelling. Bad form


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: If, like me, 5.8 is the limit of what you lead, and you've led Mental Physics a couple of times, and come to this route thinking that at 5.8- it can't be much harder than Mental Physics at 5.7+, you're in for a surprise. This was one of the most exciting climbs I've ever done. What a treat!

The polished hand crack is just beautiful. Totally forgiving for people (like me) who are still working on mastering placing nuts. Every move at 5.8 can be well-protected.

If you have big hands (as I ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Final Act (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: I love it. 5.4. Well, if the only other 5.4 you ever climbed was The Bong, you'd probably be ready for this one.

Joshua Tree is great. This is a fun climb. The crux is low, and stemming out will get you past it, but it's hard to protect.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Stucca By A Yucca (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: I like when people say a route "isn't worth doing." rating a route's quality is one thing. Outright saying it isn't worth doing is pointless.

A route's quality is subjective, to some degree. We found this route to be a lot of fun. Definitely worth doing.


Location: VA : Southwest Virginia : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Contact Station Area : Contact Station Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: Wow. That's a lot of padding.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: If you are a new leader this route is exciting as hell. The first pitch is great holds and confident climbing, but pro has to be well-extended to prevent drag and a fall would be, well, bumpy on the highly featured rock.

The second pitch past the step-around is as airy as it gets at the grade and height and is totally exhilarating. Step back out at the belay past the step-around and throw some extra pro in for your second.

For the third pitch we opted to take the flake that runs pretty much ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Last Angry Arab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a fun climb, with just a couple of moves at 5.6 and some fun easy climbing in between. I used a couple of off-width moves on lead that I probably didn't need to, but it was all sorts of fun. Despite the crack, don't expect to get more than a jam or three.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Final Furious Farsi (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: A fun route with some surprisingly burly moves right before it starts back toward the left, and typical long run-out, only with a gritty swing waiting for either the leader or second who manages to fall traversing over to the chains above Willard.

A nice variety of friction, crimps, and jugs.

Typical Josh 5.6... :)


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