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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 242
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 349
Last 30 Days: 1
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1148 | Routes 42 | Areas 25 | Photos 246 | Page Improvments | Comments 173 | Posts 445 | Stars 187 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If it were part of a single-pitch climb that was FA'd today, it would be called 5.7 without hesitation. Still, it sews up...there's cracks everywhere.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Lesbos in Love (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Nothing was particularly loose, but the route was really odd, and very atypical of Holcomb. The anchor looked like it was made of stuff from a swing set. The positioning of the last couple of bolts is contrived and doesn't really make any sense. This route should have shared an anchor with the route to its left, really. Kind of fun, but pretty poorly bolted up high.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Polemonium Peak : V-Notch Couloir (5.5 WI2-3)
By: Chris D When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Here's a photo of the V-Notch this past Saturday, July 19, 2014:




Location: CA : High Sierra : North Palisade : U-Notch Couloir (5.6 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow)
By: Chris D When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Thought I'd share a photo I took of the U-Notch for anyone who might be thinking (foolishly) of climbing it. Conditions are "less than ideal." Ha! This was this past Saturday, July 19, 2014.




Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Chris D When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:

1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly feature... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Big Sleep
By: Chris D When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Descending Big Sleep involves either rapping Afternoon Nap, or walking off to either the right or left after continuing to the summit of the dome. If you choose to rap, be mindful of the fact that you'll be rapping a popular route that includes a hanging belay at the start of the last pitch. Be courteous to parties ascending this route.

Walking off takes you to other domes and walls on your way back to where you parked. Walk off to the right and you can access Voodoo, the Crocodile, and I ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Wish I'd caught Richard's comment above before we went up there this past weekend! The third pitch is indeed a loose third class gully. Checked out the rock on the face to the left of the gully, but not until I was too far up the gully to get on it. Looked like a much nicer option. There looks like there's a lot of route potential on this formation.

The first three pitches are pretty crummy, but after the third pitch the rock quality improves dramatically, as does the climbing. From the t... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Never saw "the" loose block on P3, even though we were looking for it. This might be because P3 and P4 are really littered with loose rocks. Plenty of large and small rocks to trundle, but with even reasonably conscientiousness climbing it shouldn't be a problem. None struck me as rocks that could be dislodged by poor rope management.

Just be careful, and think long and hard about climbing below another party.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: "Our guide book said it was a trad route, we didn't place any pro."

As discussed above, a route that is protected entirely with bolts is not necessarily a sport route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Idaho Bob:

This is a photo of me leading pitch 6 taken from the top of P5.



Here's a link the "original" version of the photo, if you're into detail.

Chris


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: If you're asking yourself, "should we climb this route?" here's a few things to consider.

You should not.

Vogel's ratings are gospel, and he doesn't give it any stars because it's just not very good. Also, it's a total sandbag. The second pitch alone is 200 feet of sustained 5.7 climbing with infrequent rests. If this was FA'd today, it'd be an .8. There. I said it. I'm not proud. Chuck and Ellen Wilts put this up in like, 1950, wearing galoshes and lederhosen. It was 5.6 back then, ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.3)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: There's no reason to argue about the grade on this route (or other easy Tahquitz routes), but not because it's actually a "modern" 5.3 (whatever that is)...

This was one of my first leads, and I've done this route a number of times with a variety of brand new seconds on the other end of the rope and the lieback, while short and easily well-protected, is a mandatory lieback, very smooth on the feet, and includes a couple of moves that would earn a rating of 5.6 or .7 if it was FA'd somewhere el... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: After climbing this route a few times, I'd advise strongly against the advice K-Tanz gives above. Half the fun of climbing this route is unlocking the puzzle to achieving the anchors at the top of the first pitch from below. The moves aren't that hard, and are a lot of fun. You will want to go pretty far left below the anchors (before you even can see the bolts) to find the easiest way to the bolts from below. It's challenging, but rewarding. Just pay attention to where the bolts are before ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Back to do this a second time this weekend and it was a great romp. Paying attention to the difficulty this time, I would say the traverse under the little white roof on the steep face of P4 is the crux, and every bit of 5.7.

As for skipping the "last" pitch, which is the brown patina face with the slabby sandstone with a bolt to "runout" to the anchors...go ahead, if you want to miss one of the better highlights of this climb. The slab is not hard, and by the time you're high above the bolt,... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: What a climb! Only did the first four pitches, but it was amazing. P3 is one of the best pitches of climbing I've done anywhere. So nice.

One note - Handren calls P2 5.6. If this pitch is 5.6, I must have missed a LOT of holds. Slick rock with small holds, but no need to lieback anything. I was a little spooked on toprope! Ha!


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: First, the description of the route from the FA party is one of the better bits of beta I've gotten on MP. Top notch, except for the oft-noted discrepancy on the length of P3, which is unfortunate, since it's sort of important. P3 is right about 100 feet long. Pay attention to where your middle mark is on a 60m. That's assuming you started from the massive ledge after the P2 slab. You'll finish P3 on a sloping but substantial flat area right at the start of the deep, wide crack of P4, which ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Dancer (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Pretty awkward couple of moves for 5.6.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Applicator (5.10 X)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: I don't know that this wall is tall enough to have an X-rated route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Indian Creek Crack (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: A few fun moves. Some nice jams. Worth the walk if you're already camping at Sheep Pass.

Easiest way down is to turn right after you top out and climb the easy face that gets you to the top of the "main" wall in this area. Easy walk-off from there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Lord Jim (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Two or three fun moves.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: If you find yourself hungover in campsite 3 without the energy or motivation to go find something good to climb, you're in luck; there's a few dinky, pretty low-quality routes right behind your campsite. Otherwise, skip this area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Unknown (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: One of the oddest places for bolts I've ever seen. This is a super-easy chimney. I have to assume someone figured they'd found an out of the way place to practice with their bosch.

This is a good place to refine your chimney technique in a safe situation without the benefit of a rope.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: In an attempt to get into the sun after freezing for three pitches this past Saturday, we skipped lunch ledge by continuing past it on easy terrain just to the right of lunch ledge and belaying at the first nice spot to stop at, which just happened to be right below where the crack/corner of the 5.6 finish begins. Nice!

Got us a little warmth, but I was thinking it would be a great way to skip lunch ledge on a crowded summer day, and the climbing was better than the broken blocks directly abov... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Unreported Rock : Frank's Sandwich (5.10+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: This thing really merits bolting. I haven't even seen it, but I'm pretty sure it needs to be tightly bolted.


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