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Rock Climbing Photo: Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Chris D

Point Rank: # 277
Total Points: 2,322
Last Year: 137
Last 30 Days: 2
76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1167 | Routes 43 | Areas 26 | Photos 264 | Page Improvements | Comments 182 | Posts 426 | Stars 194 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: This is a great beta photo. You want to be belaying from where this picture was taken. With a 60 meter rope, you can get all the way to a decent belay at the end of the left crack in the Y in the top of the photo. This is the "body swallowing crack" pitch that you can read about in the comments. You go straight up the steep gully you can see behind the climber in this photo. Look to the top and you can clearly see the left leg of the Y. There you go!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Got on this for the first time today. Route finding was casual, and typical for Tahquitz. This is a nice little route, and steep and sustained for the grade in a couple of places! Some tips:

For some reason, I felt like foreshortening was extra-pronounced on this route. Everywhere I expected to get to with our 60 got is about 40 feet or more shy of that spot. Maybe it was just in my head. Pay attention to how much rope you have left. We did some easy simul-climbing to get to good belays.

From ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but be advised of a few things.

1. The steepest climbing you'll do is the unroped third-class approach to the start. Not an exaggeration.

2. Aside from the 5.7 corner at the very top of the route, there's not a single section of climbing that's harder than 5.4, and much of it is 4th class.

3. The gear is sparse, but the climbing is so easy that you never notice. Slings with slipknots are your friend on this one. We protected entire pitches with nothing but slung plates and chicke... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: I read all the comments here and kind of poo-pooed all the comments about the third pitch. Don't.

It's possible I didn't find all the gear, but midway through that pitch is a section of OW where you're making a series(maybe ten or fifteen feet?) of 5.7 moves with no rests a good 20 feet above your last piece. There's a nice rail on the left side of the crack, and the temptation to lieback/shimmy up that for its duration was much stronger than my desire to get in the crack and chikenwing/grovel ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.10a) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: I used CHDK with a canon point and shoot to capture the time lapse (though lots of cameras come with a time lapse function). CHDK works with virtually any Canon point and shoot. Easy to install.

chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK

I set it up on a tripod that captures the whole route, then tell it to take an image ever X seconds (10 is a good starting point).

Then you just pick a "base" image and spend a little time looking through the time lapse photos for images that will work well (no overlap... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 05 - Convict Lake & McGee C... : Laurel Mountain : Mendenhall Couloir (Easy 5th)
By: Chris D When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Some observations from yesterday's climb of this gem:

First, this thing is not nearly as complicated as reading about it makes it seem. The start is impossible to miss. From there, there's really only one "critical" choice, and that is to make that right turn at the first fork that Supertopo calls out. Above this turn, you will trend left, yes, but don't just keep trending left blindly;

follow the main gully.

The "main" gully is obvious, and if you're not near smooth, clean w... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 12 - Shepherd Pass : Mt. Williamson : North Arete (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Considerable beta can be found in This Supertopo thread.

Finding the ridge (then actually staying on it) can be the biggest challenge of this climb once you get past the brute physicality of lugging your 40 pound backpack 6,000+ feet over 12 miles up to Shepherd Pass the day before the climb. Then there's the 2-3 mile cross-country hike with a 1,500 descent on the approach. We were able to locat... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Northeast Face West (5.7)
By: Chris D When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Regarding this ^^^

Read it again. Think tongue-in-cheek. Just having a little fun.

There really are no bad days on the rock, are there?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: No, it's useless for pro. I think I just threw a sling around it to be funny. Can't rightly remember now.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: If it were part of a single-pitch climb that was FA'd today, it would be called 5.7 without hesitation. Still, it sews up...there's cracks everywhere.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Lesbos in Love (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Nothing was particularly loose, but the route was really odd, and very atypical of Holcomb. The anchor looked like it was made of stuff from a swing set. The positioning of the last couple of bolts is contrived and doesn't really make any sense. This route should have shared an anchor with the route to its left, really. Kind of fun, but pretty poorly bolted up high.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Polemonium Peak : V-Notch Couloir (Easy 5th WI3)
By: Chris D When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Here's a photo of the V-Notch this past Saturday, July 19, 2014:




Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : North Palisade : U-Notch Couloir (5.6 WI2 M1)
By: Chris D When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Thought I'd share a photo I took of the U-Notch for anyone who might be thinking (foolishly) of climbing it. Conditions are "less than ideal." Ha! This was this past Saturday, July 19, 2014.




Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Chris D When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:

1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly feature... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Big Sleep
By: Chris D When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Descending Big Sleep involves either rapping Afternoon Nap, or walking off to either the right or left after continuing to the summit of the dome. If you choose to rap, be mindful of the fact that you'll be rapping a popular route that includes a hanging belay at the start of the last pitch. Be courteous to parties ascending this route.

Walking off takes you to other domes and walls on your way back to where you parked. Walk off to the right and you can access Voodoo, the Crocodile, and I ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Wish I'd caught Richard's comment above before we went up there this past weekend! The third pitch is indeed a loose third class gully. Checked out the rock on the face to the left of the gully, but not until I was too far up the gully to get on it. Looked like a much nicer option. There looks like there's a lot of route potential on this formation.

The first three pitches are pretty crummy, but after the third pitch the rock quality improves dramatically, as does the climbing. From the t... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Never saw "the" loose block on P3, even though we were looking for it. This might be because P3 and P4 are really littered with loose rocks. Plenty of large and small rocks to trundle, but with even reasonably conscientiousness climbing it shouldn't be a problem. None struck me as rocks that could be dislodged by poor rope management.

Just be careful, and think long and hard about climbing below another party.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: "Our guide book said it was a trad route, we didn't place any pro."

As discussed above, a route that is protected entirely with bolts is not necessarily a sport route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Idaho Bob:

This is a photo of me leading pitch 6 taken from the top of P5.



Here's a link the "original" version of the photo, if you're into detail.

Chris


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Northeast Face West (5.7)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: If you're asking yourself, "should we climb this route?" here's a few things to consider.

You should not.

Vogel's ratings are gospel, and he doesn't give it any stars because it's just not very good. Also, it's a total sandbag. The second pitch alone is 200 feet of sustained 5.7 climbing with infrequent rests. If this was FA'd today, it'd be an .8. There. I said it. I'm not proud. Chuck and Ellen Wilts put this up in like, 1950, wearing galoshes and lederhosen. It was 5.6 back then, ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.4)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: There's no reason to argue about the grade on this route (or other easy Tahquitz routes), but not because it's actually a "modern" 5.3 (whatever that is)...

This was one of my first leads, and I've done this route a number of times with a variety of brand new seconds on the other end of the rope and the lieback, while short and easily well-protected, is a mandatory lieback, very smooth on the feet, and includes a couple of moves that would earn a rating of 5.6 or .7 if it was FA'd somewhere el... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: After climbing this route a few times, I'd advise strongly against the advice K-Tanz gives above. Half the fun of climbing this route is unlocking the puzzle to achieving the anchors at the top of the first pitch from below. The moves aren't that hard, and are a lot of fun. You will want to go pretty far left below the anchors (before you even can see the bolts) to find the easiest way to the bolts from below. It's challenging, but rewarding. Just pay attention to where the bolts are before ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Back to do this a second time this weekend and it was a great romp. Paying attention to the difficulty this time, I would say the traverse under the little white roof on the steep face of P4 is the crux, and every bit of 5.7.

As for skipping the "last" pitch, which is the brown patina face with the slabby sandstone with a bolt to "runout" to the anchors...go ahead, if you want to miss one of the better highlights of this climb. The slab is not hard, and by the time you're high above the bolt,... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: What a climb! Only did the first four pitches, but it was amazing. P3 is one of the best pitches of climbing I've done anywhere. So nice.

One note - Handren calls P2 5.6. If this pitch is 5.6, I must have missed a LOT of holds. Slick rock with small holds, but no need to lieback anything. I was a little spooked on toprope! Ha!


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: First, the description of the route from the FA party is one of the better bits of beta I've gotten on MP. Top notch, except for the oft-noted discrepancy on the length of P3, which is unfortunate, since it's sort of important. P3 is right about 100 feet long. Pay attention to where your middle mark is on a 60m. That's assuming you started from the massive ledge after the P2 slab. You'll finish P3 on a sloping but substantial flat area right at the start of the deep, wide crack of P4, which ... more >>


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