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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 30, 2016
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Chris Archer
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Point Rank: # 932
Total Points: 850
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 2000 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 145 | Posts 10 | Stars 941 | Ratings 802
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10a)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: Great climb. Don't know why it was renamed in the guide, especially since there is already a route named Handcracker on the West Ridge. As Joe says, it had always been referred to as White Lightning until Boulder Climbs South came out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : The Formula (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: The opening moves have become more difficult since the first ascent due to a flake breaking off. The crux is height (or reach dependent). The final roof has always seemed like it had a move or two of 11- to me. Would love to find the 10a way to pull it! BTW, bolts on this route were replaced in the summer of 2002.

An entertaining variation pioneered by the much-missed Derek Hershey climbs the opening corner of Parting Shot, traverses right to the crux bulge of the second pitch of Apple S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: I'm glad people are enjoying the route. The grade is certainly height dependent. I did the route again recently and still think 11a is a fair grade for average height climbers, if you're 6 feet or taller it's probably 5.10 something, if 5'6" or shorter 5.11 something. It's also chalk dependent. The last time I had done this route was about 5 years earlier in the sun on a hot day with Jim Erickson who led it sans chalk: 12c. Bolts were replaced in October 2003.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Varieties Of Religious Expe... (5.11b R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 offer a variety of different experiences, hence the name. Bolts on the crux pitch were replaced in October 2003.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Sport climbing in Boulder Canyon doesn't get much better than this route and Hot Flyer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Outstanding climbing in any condition.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Brilliant route. 12a onsight grade; 11b/c redpoint.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Feeding The Beast (aka Beas... (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Pentaprance (5.10d R)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: This was one of the first routes to be replaced when Boulder Mountain Parks, in their infinite wisdom, after over 4 years of negotiations with the Access Fund, deigned to allow local climbers to replace ancient fixed gear. The bolts were replaced by local climbers, not the ASCA. All that being said, its a great line and a long forgotten Flatirons route that certainly deserves a lot more traffic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Next to Nothing (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 20, 2003

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Comments: A fun and photogenic pitch on generally excellent holds. The crux involves a short section getting to the arete where the feet run out. The two bolts at the crux are very close and seem to be oddly placed. Clipping the second one is one of the hardest moves on the route. Perhaps it would have been better to have placed one bolt lower and out right in place of the 2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Strange Science (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 20, 2003

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Comments: Excellent route. Continuously interesting and difficult. Certainly 3 stars for Avalon. I'm not sure how to grade route quality on these crags. Is it better to grade quality compared to the routes on the crag or routes in the area? I had been grading them based on other routes in the area, i.e., Boulder Canyon. If graded compared to other routes at the crag, in my opinion, this pitch warrants 3 stars as does Free Fall, Ripcord, Chairman of Board, and Clipboard.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Clipboard (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 20, 2003

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Comments: A pretty good short route, but not 11c. Significantly easier than the 11c to the right (Strange Science?)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : The Unlead (5.11b X)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 21, 2003

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Comments: The final roof goes at the R facing corner seam. Surprisingly not that difficult, although rather tricky. 5.11+/12-. Beth Bennett and I toproped it last September (02).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.12d)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Good job. What's the 4-plan?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 18, 2001

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Comments: This is an outstanding route. Interesting enduro climbing the entire way, but way overrated. 12a seems more acurate. The move on Adventure kayak trundle seems to be considerably more difficult than any move on River dance. Most first timers I've brought to the River Wall flash RD and fall off AKT.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : No Rest For the Wicked (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 18, 2001

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Comments: Definately a brilliant, three star route. Don't underestimate the moves down low if your under 5'10". An OK rest follows, if you're good at resting. I don't exactly recall the trick at the top but there are holds either below the rings or left of the rings that allow a clip without grabbing them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 25, 2001

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Comments: Steve Levin is right when he says that the 1st & 2nd and 4th & 5th pitches can be combined without rope drag. Double ropes aren't necessary if you're careful and use long slings in the Chimney. Re escape, while a 60m rope leaves you 10' shy of the 2d belay while rapping the 3d pitch, a 70m rope works like a charm. The description is also inaccurate about sewing up the final handcrack for the second's benefit! A piece at the start of the handcrack (above the bulge) and one at the top protect it... more >>


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