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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 30, 2016
Contact Chris Archer

Chris Archer
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Point Rank: # 932
Total Points: 850
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 3
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 2000 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 145 | Posts 10 | Stars 941 | Ratings 802
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Corporate Greed (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This short route climbs a left-facing dihedral just left of Snipe Hunter (12c). 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Zeros and Ones (5.11+ PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2008

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Comments: Sounds interesting, but I'm a bit confused...Is this the 4th pitch of a previous aid climb or a new route?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Prima Donna (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: 4 bolts to anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : The Wild, Wild West (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Does any one have any information on the route just right of WWW?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Pinch A Loaf (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: 4 bolts; optional #1-#1.5 Friend between 2 & 3; unwelded cold shut anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Great route, but why the name change? When I first did this route in '89 or so it was know as Killer Elite. Also, isn't there another route named Ms. Coolie's Saloon on Eldorado Mountain?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 18, 2008

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Comments: Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 12, 2008

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Comments: I'm not sure I understand Josh's comment. Josh, are you advocating replacing the bolt that pulled or adding a new bolt to the route? Replacing the missing bolt is easily done and it sounds like Steve will be doing that tomorrow.

Some old history: the bolt left of the flake was not an original bolt. The original FA line climbed the natural line of the flake. The bolt was added in the mid to late 80s to force the line onto the face. At the same time the stopper placement prior to the first bolt... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Art Of Slappiness (5.13b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Very cool! Great job, Chris!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: This weekend, the two trees that have been used for rappels for the descent from Sooberb, Long John Wall, etc., have been replaced with camouflaged double bolt anchors. The first set of anchors from the ledge near the top of the cliff are on the slab just left of the tree and easy to overlook. This location was the best spot for the anchors given the quality of the rock and the pull.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: This weekend, the two trees that have been used for rappels for the descent from Sooberb, Long John Wall, etc., have been replaced with camouflaged double bolt anchors. The first set of anchors from the ledge near the top of the cliff are on the slab just left of the tree and easy to overlook. This location was the best spot for the anchors given the quality of the rock and the pull.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 27, 2006

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Comments: Early May through mid October is the season. April is climbable if you don't mind postholing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Wired (5.10a PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006

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Comments: This isn't Right Side.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Right Side? aka Bong Sessio... (5.10)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006

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Comments: For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Thoughtful and pumpy climbing up a unique geologic feature.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 15, 2004

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Comments: Very entertaining and great clues, Steve! Hopefully it will pique the curiosity of a new generation of Eldo history afficionados....but isnt the answer to the last clue a different climb, namely Rosy? I haven't seen the film in many years, but I seem to recal the incident that I think you're referring to occurring on the traverse.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 30, 2004

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Comments: An excellent, thought provoking climb. The crux is difficult to read on the onsight, but becomes quite reasonable once you know what to do. it felt like 12a on the onsight due to the inobvious nature of the crux, but dropped to 11c on repeat ascents once you know what to do. Doing the route in one pitch is the way to go. 98' to the anchors.There is a hidden bolt just above the handcrack and before the first bolt in the bulge. Knowing this reduces the need for the 3Friend/ gold camalot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Rock For Climbing Routes To (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 25, 2004

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Comments: Rock for Climbing Routes To is an independent 3 pitch (as originally done) line that begins on the arete left of the first pitch of Break on Through and ends as described here. Perhaps Andy could provide additional FA details.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 6, 2004

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Comments: Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 19, 2004

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Comments: A point of clarification to the ac who thought the 2nd bolt above the crux was unnecessary. I added that bolt to protect the second. Without it, a fall at the crux while following the pitch sends the second into space and necessitates lowering to the ground and starting over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2004

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Comments: An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 11, 2004

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Comments: Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage.


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