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Member Since: May 15, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 14, 2014
Contact Chip Phillips


Point Rank: # 305
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 579 | Routes 127 | Areas 2 | Photos 71 | Page Improvements | Comments 176 | Posts 17 | Stars 171 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: Down low on the sloping ramp.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Aerogel (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: IMHO, the way you are describing is easier than the 2 variations I described above Micah ... in the neighborhood of V3 or 4 if I remember correctly.

That said, the way you described is certainly the least contrived way to the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Pinch Bulge Sit Down (V4-5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 20, 2004

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Comments: After readong Matt's comments above AGAIN, the hold he describes that you TWIST up into from the flake and kind of get a thumb catch on is the hold on Tall Man Shut Down that I describe as sort of having a good edge.

Thoroughly confused? ... Screw it, invent your own variations or maybe ask someone. Have fun at the Upper Y. The best thing about the Upper Y, aside from the excellent traverse, is the sheer number of VB-V4 problems. Sixteen or so without getting TOO contrived. Enjoy!!!

Flame away... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Pinch Bulge Sit Down (V4-5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 18, 2004

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Comments: Here's two more cents for the change bin:

What follows are edited descriptions of the aforementioned problems from the unpublished 650 problem Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Map & Guide. I'm not saying these descriptions are 100% right, but this is amalgamation of what I've been told over the years by numerous people. Neither of these problems ever appeared in a guidebook prior to PB's CO Bouldering and only Pinch Bulge was in there. These problems to some extent illustrate the nightmare that hi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall
By: Chip Phillips When: Sep 23, 2004

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Comments: There is also an unreal left to right traverse beginning on the far left and traversing right all the way into ... Right Side. Getting into Right Side via the traverse is VERY difficult. Peter Beal indicated to me this traverse was in the neighborhood V9/10, but I suspect it might be even harder (no offense Peter), as Right Side is very hard to get into from any holds other than the starting holds.

For a more reasonable? challenge, traverse right into Moffet Direct (the direct start for Varney ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall
By: Chip Phillips When: Sep 16, 2004

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Comments: what I can tell you Michael is that there are a couple of vertical sit-down-start problems on the left side of Red Wall.

the furthest left starts with your right hand in the shallow pocket and left hand on an edge, pimp straight up on pebbles, crimps and a shallow divot or two. I refer to this as Left Side V4. FWIW, I remember Benningfield mentioning a V4 on the left side of Red Wall (although I'm not sure he called it Left Side) and Pat Ament also mentions a line he did over there in 1967 in o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Aerogel (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: FWIW, this is how I felt about the TWO ways most people do Aerogel ...

From the big sloper, right hand to the crimp, everything is on to the top ... V4/5.

Right hand to the crimp, go left hand all the way to the top horn ... V6.

The Hard Traverse is fun too ... solid V5 rounding the corner after pimping the sloper.

That's my 2 cents ... flame away


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Chip Phillips When: May 19, 2004

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Comments: Well AC, I revisited Tutorial Rock when you suggested it was still V4/5 without the huge handlebar rail. While I will agree that the high traverse riding the lip could fairly be graded V4 or and deserving of a *, the low traverse dropping down from the slopers just past the two pebbles to what is left of the rail, continuing left into the start for Layback Lesson and then up, is quite a bit harder and less enjoyable on crumbly sharp rock. Its too bad the handlebar rail went bye bye. It was a tru... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Chip Phillips When: May 15, 2004

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Comments: You bet. The VB rating is common at California areas and in RockFax bouldering guides. It usually equates to 5.8/5.9 boulder problems.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Chip Phillips When: May 14, 2004

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Comments: Well AC, I will actually admit to doing umpteen silly little vertical problems on it as well as the right to left traverse in 1999. As you know, plenty of people have probably fooled around on it through the years, although it has never been included or mentioned in any guides. The problems are too short to be of interest to most boulderers ... nevertheless, it is one of the nicer boulders for full-on beginners; ie: nice landings, short falls, pad not required, etc.

Here's a link to t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnac... (5.4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 22, 2004

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Comments: I agree wholeheartedly Peter. John McCrumm's description reminds me why I climb ... thanks John.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Miscellaneous Valley : Iron Cross Traverse (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 22, 2004

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Comments: Adam, I suspect it was a word of mouth thing ... ie:"Have you done that little traverse with the iron cross move?" which melded into "Have you done The Iron Cross Traverse?" A reasonable name for a problem that went undocumented until CO Bouldering and went nameless in that guidebook.

I've heard some people comment that they never called it that back in the day. What did you guys call it anyway? The Short O Traverse?




Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Mongolian Cosmonaut (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 20, 2004

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Comments: Colin - thanks for the shedding some light on how Skip started MC and the disintegration of the starting pocket.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Miscellaneous Valley : Iron Cross Traverse (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 14, 2004

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Comments: grades schmades AC. how 'bout a comment about how that iron cross move can really wreck your shoulder ... or how the meddling boulder behind you for the finish takes away from the quality of the problem ... or how a number of holds on this over the last couple decades have crumbled away making it harder ... or at least tell us it's a great or terrible problem ... or ask why this thing became known as the iron cross traverse ... or what it used to be called ...

i'm with you adam, I think its har... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Mongolian Cosmonaut (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 12, 2004

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Comments: Hey Matt ... yeah like a lot of Flag afficianados I've got a broken hold on my mantel.

Anyway, the history, banter and grade-mongering on MC is about as bad as it gets on Flag. We've certainly done little to clear it up. Looks like we should agree that MC is somewhere between V8 and V11 depending on what holds you start on. Pick some holds and have fun.

Mongolian BBQ huh? Sounds like a low start from those edges around the corner to the right up underneath the lip up into Pat Ament's High Ove... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Mongolian Cosmonaut (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 12, 2004

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Comments: Good contribution Peter. Hope you don't mind if I add my 2 cents.

A number of folks have recently confirmed that MC is in the neighborhood of V9. Some still argue for V10. Small pebbles continue to dislodge from the underbelly of the boulder.

A few years back, Rob Candelaria did MC from LOW sit-start starting with both hands underneath the bulge. Rob called it V10/11 and projected it for a long time. According to John Stack, he never did the LOW start. There is also the higher start that more ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 7, 2004

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Comments: It's not entirely gone Bob ... and I would not have ever have called that hold small in its previous state. Hell, it was the biggest hold on the problem.

Anyway, what's left of that good left hand hold is miserable. Most people I've seen on it now, use a lower 2/3-finger crimp just below it (maybe 2 inches below where the GOOD left hand hold was).

If what I'm saying is still confusing, go check it out. Yes, holds continue to break on Flag. A few of us were joking last night that 48 hours afte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: Bob said:

"Chip, what huge hold are you talking about. To my recollection, there was never a big/huge hold on this problem getting through the crux. The was a sloping crimp hold on the left that I use to fire to the top."

Bob, I guess it is sort of a long-winded thread that could be confusing to know what hold we were talking about. The edge I'm talking about was the large left hand shelf (maybe 3 cm deep) that you could easily snag from the right-hand crescent hold and move up to the thin sh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: FWIW, the sit start to the Smith Overhang based on everything I've heard has not been done.

Looking for a double digit FA??? ... go get it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: That's how I've always done it Adam and I believe that's still the easiest way. Its most definitely harder now that the huge left hand ledge is no more.

I used to own this problem, but now the final move is harder. It took me many many tries yesterday ... V7 seems fair, only because the huge left hand hold sheared off a year ago leaving a piss-poor hold for balancing the final thrutch move. Still fun after all these years.

As an aside, the absence of the huge hold appears to have turned Frenc... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : Crushed Ice (V1)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2003

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Comments: Chris said: "PG and BS did the FA of this slab years ago....der! Not a new rt. Who cares realy, just for the history of the area. You can bet on those guys climbing just about everything that has features in the Poudre and not ever saying a word about it."

first chris, i'm well aware that pg and bs were the first to do many/most of the lines in and around the 420s and the Gandalf area. they absolutely deserve tons of credit for their vision and hard work. second, i'm also aware that if they did... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse : The Monkey Traverse (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: This problem is among the most climbed upon chunks of stone in Colorado, if not the world. Apparently, someone annointed The Monkey Traverse THE problem to meet at, mingle around and be seen cruising after work, because it is quite a scene on most pleasant afternoons. If you prefer to avoid the crowds when bouldering (imagine 2 or 3 people on the problem all afternoon), come up one morning and work out the nuiances in the shade. You will have it all to yourself and, provided you don't have a dis... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : Masochism Tango (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 5, 2003

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Comments: Another nice contribution Adam. This problem is a little sharp for some. That said, if the sidewall landing wasn't there, I suspect it would be as popular as First Overhang and Just Right.

According to Pat Ament's High Over Boulder, the FA was by Jim Holloway in the mid to late 1970s or Skip Guerin in the early 1980s. Back then ... it was easier, but similar to First Overhang, a crucial handhold broke off making it harder.

As for the actual grade, Benningfield called it V6 ... I've got it as V... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Bob's Bulge (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 7, 2003

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Comments: This problem was originally done by Bob Williams in 1969 starting with both hands on the rail and trending left to the top. Because the ground has eroded ~24 inches, today most people start with LH hand on the undercling and RH spanned out to the bottom of the rail. IMHO, the way it is generally done today is hard V6.

Several years later, in 1974, Jim Holloway started this problem matched on the good undercling. This problem has historically been known as The Holloway Direct and most people agr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pebble Boulder : Crystal Mantle (V1)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 31, 2003

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Comments: AC - I hear what you are saying. For what it is worth, I was just sharing information contained in old guidebooks and the yet-to-be-published guide I happened to have handy. FYI: The Crystal Mantel was probably done for the 1st time in the mid to late 1950s or early 60s by someone like Corwin Simmons, Bob Beatty, Ray Northcutt, Dallas Jackson, Layton Kor, Bob Culp, Pat Ament. That's pretty much who was trolling around flag at that time ...maybe you've heard of some of them???

As for adding info... more >>


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