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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Chip Phillips When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Obviously the Black Wall itself, and bouldering-wise Areas C & D. I'm pretty sure all downvalley bouldering is fine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : Horan Face (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, the problem done by John Baldwin is about 10 ft right of 606.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : Horan Face (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As for this problem, Horan identified it as the Horan Face. While it is certainly possible Pat (Ament) or John (Gill) did this problem back in the day, Pat never mentioned it in ANY of his guides and considering that it used to have a pretty bad landing, my best guess is that they passed on it.
It is a pretty damn good problem and with the addition of Will's 606 to the Gill Boulder, it is as popular as ever.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the plug Caleb. FWIW, the blog-guide on the above link should be completed by the end of 2010. It has been a much longer process than I expected.
It was always my hope that I would publish this guide as a fold-out map on tear-proof/waterproof kevlar paper. At this time, however, I believe the online format works best for this sort of endeavor. Entries may be edited/modified, etc. as unknown and new information comes to light.
As of 01/2010, approximately 670 problems covering more t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pebble Boulder : Northeast Mantle (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Mar 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A complete miniguide to the Pebble Wall can be found here:
www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/
There is not a great answer for your Q. I thought Mike Moelter developed the problem, but was told Bart Strege did it first which must have been in ~2001 or 2002 based on when he was pulling hard in CO. I'm not sure how to reach him for the history of the problem. If anyone knows, please provide info or give him a heads up.
As an aside, Northeast Mantel is nowhere near V4, but I digress.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth Allred and Giovanni Traversi have now done Trice as well. It's funny what the Holloway article in Climbing and a Letter to the Editor inspired ... 8 ascents so far and Paul and Ty haven't even done it yet. Props to Carlo and Jamie for "re-opening" the problem on the same day in December.
Of note, DW tacked a few moves onto the beginning of Trice in January 2008, starting at the dihedral on the right and traversing left into Trice. He named it Epochalypse V13. Not sure why he did not do the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : The Face (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 4 highball problems between The Face and The Culp Route (now known as Round Pebble). All are in the V4 to V6 range. Not sure what problem Benningfield may or may not be referencing. His guide to Flagstaff in Colorado Bouldering I covers a little more than a 1/3 of Flagstaff's boulder problems. I'll be putting the Three of Kind Wall Miniguide up on my blog soon. You'll be able to see it all there.
www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave Graham has now done Trice as well. That's ascent #s 2-6 between November 14th, 2007 and January 10th, 2008. I guess that Holloway article in Climbing a few months ago inspired some strongmos to give what must be the world's first V12 a few whirls, particularly after it sat unrepeated for 32 years.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone has replaced the hold which broke in April of 2003. No glue is visible, but it is certainly there. Not sure the hold will last, but the character of the problem has been restored to its pre-2003 condition. Time will tell if this was a smart decision, but I enjoyed climbing it again a few weeks ago.
It's approximately V5 again ... at least for now. Not sure who did the glue job, but a lot more folks will do this one for fun again.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few things:
For those who care ... Holloway's FA was in 1975. Also, the starting holds in the above beta photo are a bit misleading. The problem starts - according to Jim himself - with the good LH sidepull and good RH undercling.
As reported, Jim Holloway's Trice is no longer unrepeated. Carlo Traversi, Jamie Emerson, James Pearson and now Daniel Woods have repeated it. Pete's guesstimation of the grade was spot on. Four ascents by strongmos in the last few weeks have confirmed it at V12. I... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse : Shallow Slot (V4- PG13)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Again ... FWIW, the FA was by Pat Ament in the early/mid 1960s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : 606 (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, the FA was done by Will LeMaire, 2004.
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Location: CO : Trice Get's A 2nd Ascent Af...
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, both Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson got ascents of Trice on November 14th. You can read a full report on the days events at www.enlightenedchuffer.blogspot.com
Links to videos of both ascents which took place under perfect conditions between 4 and 5 PM are provided.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock
By: Chip Phillips When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kris, I'm guessing here, but I suspect you are talking about Butt Slammer, since it is the most obvious and inspiring (except for the rock quality) line on the boulder. Butt Slammer was put up by Rob Candelaria in 1974/75 and ascends the steep and airy southeast overhang above a small slab that faces downhill. At the time, it was rated B1+, which usually equates with V5 or 6 for most of Ament's ratings. Unfortunately, the rock is not the best and, shortly thereafter, a critical flake broke and s... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: Chip Phillips When: May 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, about 30 problems have been put up in Young's Gulch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : Red Streak (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice addition Ben. Here are a few additional details ... the FA to The Red Streak was by Skip Guerin, late 1980's/early 1990's. The variation to The Red Streak is known as Colin's Thing, circa 1993-4 by Colin Lantz. These are among the very best highballs on the Mountain and I agree with the *** rating.
IMHO, and according to the opinion of a few others, The Red Streak is a little easier than Colin's Thing. The two have very different 2-3 move cruxes, both in the V5-6 range. Once you do the lon... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : Kaptain Face (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott - Many of the Flagstaff problems you've recently added to the database are long overdue additions, so good job. However, the problem you are describing here is not Kaptain Face, but rather Little Sloper Boy, which - if you've done it - is more like V2 or V3.
Kaptain Face (FA: Neil Kaptain, 1985) begins at the funky undercling and adjacent crimp on the left side of the start for Round Pebble, does a couple funky moves (most people match on a sloping corner hold) directly up to the good edg... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Gill Swing (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is generally thought that the true Gill Swing has never been repeated.
The right hand hold is the worst and smallest one on the face (it's not on the arete), there's no left hand and you have to high step almost to your belly button these days since the ground has eroded 18-24 inches inches or so. still fun, just don't expect to do what Gill did.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Rear-End Rock : South Bulge (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Andy. This problem is actually called Left Bulge. It was originally done via a cheatstone in 1967 by Pat Ament. It appears it was repeated that way until CG and Harrison Dekker added the low start in the early to mid 1980s. Benningfield mentions the low start to the problem as if that is the problem. Not at V5 it's not.
Three versions (grades are just estimates - form your own opinions!):
High-start from lip (cheatstone or jump) ... V4/5
Regular-start with LH undercling and RH crimp ..... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Road Sign Rock : Northwestern Overhang (a.k.... (V2)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: V2 ... Right!!!
B1 is the correct grade, which typically translates into V4 on Flag. I'd say that's just about right, assuming you are beginning from a sit on using opposing slopers underneath the bulge on the far right. Guidebooks are a useful indicator of grades, but that's just about it. Think for yourself when you add problems to the database.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Down low on the sloping ramp.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Aerogel (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO, the way you are describing is easier than the 2 variations I described above Micah ... in the neighborhood of V3 or 4 if I remember correctly.
That said, the way you described is certainly the least contrived way to the top.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Pinch Bulge Sit Down (V4-5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: After readong Matt's comments above AGAIN, the hold he describes that you TWIST up into from the flake and kind of get a thumb catch on is the hold on Tall Man Shut Down that I describe as sort of having a good edge.
Thoroughly confused? ... Screw it, invent your own variations or maybe ask someone. Have fun at the Upper Y. The best thing about the Upper Y, aside from the excellent traverse, is the sheer number of VB-V4 problems. Sixteen or so without getting TOO contrived. Enjoy!!!
Flame away... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Pinch Bulge Sit Down (V4-5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's two more cents for the change bin:
What follows are edited descriptions of the aforementioned problems from the unpublished 650 problem Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Map & Guide. I'm not saying these descriptions are 100% right, but this is amalgamation of what I've been told over the years by numerous people. Neither of these problems ever appeared in a guidebook prior to PB's CO Bouldering and only Pinch Bulge was in there. These problems to some extent illustrate the nightmare that hi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall
By: Chip Phillips When: Sep 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also an unreal left to right traverse beginning on the far left and traversing right all the way into ... Right Side. Getting into Right Side via the traverse is VERY difficult. Peter Beal indicated to me this traverse was in the neighborhood V9/10, but I suspect it might be even harder (no offense Peter), as Right Side is very hard to get into from any holds other than the starting holds.
For a more reasonable? challenge, traverse right into Moffet Direct (the direct start for Varney ... more >>
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