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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins ... let's try this again:
FA: Richard Smith, 1967
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Crystal Corner (V2+)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It may depend a bit on how you start it, but when I repeated Crystal Corner Direct a few years years ago, I thought the most obvious way to start was LH on the undercling below Smith Overhang and RH on the sloping edge that has a good thumb catch. From this sds, I thought it was in the neighborhood of V5/6. If you started lower or added a couple moves, it's definitely a bit harder. For example, the sit-start that begins with the project Smith Overhang Direct, e.g., LH in the pocket and RH on the... more >>
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Upper Kaymoor
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time.
I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:
Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)
When I was climb... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Yo, Adrian! (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Misha ... isn't this one in Benningfield's CO Bouldering I? I for one would love to see more Upper Satellites stuff on here. I have one or two problems I could add from up there, but I will need to hike up there before I do.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Countin' Dimes (V7-8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To answer your Q, I keep a close eye on a few areas on 8a. I don't remember this slab from my forays to the Upper Satellites, but that doesn't mean much other than I didn't put it up. Looks so good ... I'll have to check it out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Countin' Dimes (V7-8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if this is the same as Alex Manikowski's Countin' Dimes V7/8, which is apparently a nice thin slab problem in the Upper Satellites.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Elicit Area : Nothing But Everything (V8-9 X)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a bizzare looking rock towards the bottom ... and based on your photos there's no way it's only 20 feet tall.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe that was a bad descriptor ... it's the other SHALLOW dihedral which overhangs slightly but is closer to vertical. The Big 4 in Area D:
The Nothing V8 FA: Jeremy Bisher
Slander V10/11 FA: Cameron Cross
Equitos V7 FA: Ken Kenney and Salad Toss V11 FA: Joe Kinder
The Prestige V? FA: Mike Auldridge
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is the 20-22 ft shallow dihedral in Area D and the last of the Big 4 in Area D to be established.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For now, that's good enough for me.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Get Over It Super SDS (V11)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is called "Get Over It Super Sit" to distinguish it from the original SDS done by Dan Smith, which begins slightly to the right. Maybe you could clarify that this problem begins MATCHED on the undercling or maybe it is clear enough.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Get Over It (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Dan Smith did the intermediate sit, which at this point most ignore in favor of the full line which starts matched on the undercling. I'm not certain who did the FA of "Get Over It Super Sit" ... but Schulte's ascent is the earliest entry on 8a ... which is a good starting point but lots of strongmos don't have cards or don't document all their sends.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Right Eliminator Prow (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Gill ascent Malcolm is speaking of is of Right Eliminator, not Right Eliminator Prow.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Graveyard Shift (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In spite of the "hiding-in-plain-sight" nature of this line, this sounds new, Misha. Did it require significant cleaning and removal of chossy edges and flakes?
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Hueco Wall : Crimp Ladder (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Figured as much Greg, we have the same problem in Chosslorado ... with parties rediscovering problems put up 30 years ago and unsure how to proceed. In the end it does not matter, but I just figured a problem this classic should not have a name like "Crimp Ladder."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : The Beer Barrel Loop (V9)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ted/Admins: the name of this problem is "The Beer Barrel Loop" FA: Ben Greenwood, 1998
Actually Misha, Ben is quite serious, although he is one of the nicest and most unassuming climbers I've ever come across. Although I have not yet added The Beer Barrel to my online bouldering guide to Flagstaff Mountain, Ben Greenwood is credited in my draft with the FA of The Beer Barrel Loop in 1998 among other things. Additional evidence for his FA of this problem is as follows:
1. Sit-starts were not in... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Northeast Mantle (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins, this problem ascends the northeast corner and is referred to as "Northeast Mantel" in Benningfield's CO Bouldering I and the FA is attributed to Ben Walburn, mid to late 1990s.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe TC, but the FA may also be attributed to JBisher, DLudders, JTarry or another one of the early developers and until I get a chance to talk to these guys. I'm going to hold off on guessing. Corrections are inevitable based on misinformation, but so far I've done my best to give credit where it is due and not make guesses with respect to Area A FAs. That said, I'm sure a few corrections will be necessary. I'll be around a lot this coming alpine season and will go back and edit incorrect info... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : Photo
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy and Peter ... I believe that was Matt Karacik's name for this problem, circa 2005. Ryan Fields subsequently came forward and said he had done it a few years earlier but to my knowledge, Ryan did not indicate that he named it.
To those that are following the recent comments regarding Eldo boulder problems in and around the Musicals, the things down in the gullies all the way to the Blue Whale Area, the Physicals, the Metaphysicals AND BEYOND, someone choosing to document the proper names an... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Hueco Wall : Crimp Ladder (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem was featured in Friction Addiction and was called Hurt Locker V4. Greg and/or David may have commentary on this issue.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : Whale Boulder
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flash Gordon (Peter).... For some reason I remembered a starting flake, maybe it was slopers. I honestly don't remember. In any event, I can guarantee you we're talking about the same boulder, as I have pictures of it, too. Like I said, directions were confusing for me back there, so maybe it is the northeast arete. If you did it many many years ago, then I would not be surprised if it was FA. Nice one, Peter!
I hope you will continue contributing. Deciding how to add The Blue Whale Area (or wh... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : Whale Boulder
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flash - I agree about the lack of beta on mp.com for Eldo. There ARE hundreds of problems all over ECSP proper and just outside its boundaries. My intention was not to dissuade you from posting problems on mp.com. My feeling is this: if you are going to contribute something in an area many of us know and love, please take a couple extra minutes to do it right.
Will did do Southpaw from a sds on the flake quite few years ago when the Blue Whale area was developed and the grade is just one group ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : Whale Boulder
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I echo Wayne's comments. What exactly is the point? Except for a few Eldo regulars and those that have gotten tours of this secluded spot, nobody has any clue where this is.
FWIW, I was under the impression that the arete in the beta photo was put up a few years ago by Will LeMaire, Southpaw ~V4/5. In addition, I believe this is the southeast arete, but that could be easily confused in this disorienting place.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Canvas (V2 R)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've forgotten her name, but Ben told me a story about a teenage girl who tumbled off the high crux section of Canvas and walked away (shaken I'm sure). There is real potential to get very badly hurt on this rig with the crux just before the lip. If a foot blows during a 2-3 move sequence up there, you are going for a not-so-fun ride.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Verve (5.13c)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sven was a troll, but I remember him being a hilarious one!
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