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Member Since: May 15, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 20, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 579 | Routes 127 | Areas 2 | Photos 71 | Page Improvments | Comments 176 | Posts 17 | Stars 171 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Never Say Never (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: ^That was Jim Ratzlaph's ascent Leo. To say that Jim's circus trick send was the FA of Never Say Never is a misnomer at best. Never Say Never begins statically from the ground and I was always under the impression that Steve Mammen did the FA, although BH seems to think he did, as documented in Best of Boulder Bouldering.

FWIW, a handful of other people have repeated NSN, including a 2009 ascent by Dave Graham who called it V11. Grades schmades.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov...
By: Chip Phillips When: Feb 21, 2010

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Comments: To be technically precise mods, I believe Ament always refered to this block as "Pratt's Rock" ... which is home to Pratt's Mantel and Pratt's Overhang.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Citadel (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Feb 18, 2010

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Comments: I seriously doubt Will ever graded it at all tcam ... if you asked him back when he did it, he probably would have said "I don't know, V4?" ... bwahahaha.

Don't worry, all is still right in the world.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Citadel (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 22, 2010

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Comments: FA: Will Lemaire, to give full credit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Hagan's Wall Direct (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: A summary of what's been done and what hasn't may be found here:

flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/2008/09/cloud-shado>>>

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:
  • The obvious but very hard direct start to Hagan's that begins just below the normal starting holds HAS NOT been done.

  • A less than obvious direct start that begins down and right from the normal start on innocuous and small holds (as described by Peter above) was done by Peter Beal in 2000. This one climbs up and slides...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Quote: "FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (but surely not the V8 version? Chip?)"

You are technically correct. The V8 version was not done until the ground eroded. To date, the ground has eroded about 2 feet. IMHO, Richard Smith should still be given credit for the FA on this, but that's just me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Admins ... let's try this again:

FA: Richard Smith, 1967


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Crystal Corner (V2+)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: It may depend a bit on how you start it, but when I repeated Crystal Corner Direct a few years years ago, I thought the most obvious way to start was LH on the undercling below Smith Overhang and RH on the sloping edge that has a good thumb catch. From this sds, I thought it was in the neighborhood of V5/6. If you started lower or added a couple moves, it's definitely a bit harder. For example, the sit-start that begins with the project Smith Overhang Direct, e.g., LH in the pocket and RH on the... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolt... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Yo, Adrian! (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 9, 2010

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Comments: Misha ... isn't this one in Benningfield's CO Bouldering I? I for one would love to see more Upper Satellites stuff on here. I have one or two problems I could add from up there, but I will need to hike up there before I do.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Countin' Dimes (V7-8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 9, 2010

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Comments: To answer your Q, I keep a close eye on a few areas on 8a. I don't remember this slab from my forays to the Upper Satellites, but that doesn't mean much other than I didn't put it up. Looks so good ... I'll have to check it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Countin' Dimes (V7-8)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 8, 2010

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Comments: I wonder if this is the same as Alex Manikowski's Countin' Dimes V7/8, which is apparently a nice thin slab problem in the Upper Satellites.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Elicit Area : Nothing But Everything (V8-9 X)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 7, 2010

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Comments: That's a bizzare looking rock towards the bottom ... and based on your photos there's no way it's only 20 feet tall.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 7, 2010

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Comments: Maybe that was a bad descriptor ... it's the other SHALLOW dihedral which overhangs slightly but is closer to vertical. The Big 4 in Area D:

The Nothing V8 FA: Jeremy Bisher
Slander V10/11 FA: Cameron Cross
Equitos V7 FA: Ken Kenney and Salad Toss V11 FA: Joe Kinder
The Prestige V? FA: Mike Auldridge


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: Yes, it is the 20-22 ft shallow dihedral in Area D and the last of the Big 4 in Area D to be established.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: For now, that's good enough for me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Get Over It Super SDS (V11)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 4, 2010

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Comments: This is called "Get Over It Super Sit" to distinguish it from the original SDS done by Dan Smith, which begins slightly to the right. Maybe you could clarify that this problem begins MATCHED on the undercling or maybe it is clear enough.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Get Over It (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 4, 2010

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Comments: I think Dan Smith did the intermediate sit, which at this point most ignore in favor of the full line which starts matched on the undercling. I'm not certain who did the FA of "Get Over It Super Sit" ... but Schulte's ascent is the earliest entry on 8a ... which is a good starting point but lots of strongmos don't have cards or don't document all their sends.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Right Eliminator Prow (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 3, 2010

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Comments: The Gill ascent Malcolm is speaking of is of Right Eliminator, not Right Eliminator Prow.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Graveyard Shift (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 2, 2010

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Comments: In spite of the "hiding-in-plain-sight" nature of this line, this sounds new, Misha. Did it require significant cleaning and removal of chossy edges and flakes?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Mount Baldy / "old baldy" : Old Baldy Frontside : The Hurt Locker Boulder : The Hurt Locker (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 2, 2010

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Comments: Figured as much Greg, we have the same problem in Chosslorado ... with parties rediscovering problems put up 30 years ago and unsure how to proceed. In the end it does not matter, but I just figured a problem this classic should not have a name like "Crimp Ladder."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : The Beer Barrel Loop (V9)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: Ted/Admins: the name of this problem is "The Beer Barrel Loop" FA: Ben Greenwood, 1998

Actually Misha, Ben is quite serious, although he is one of the nicest and most unassuming climbers I've ever come across. Although I have not yet added The Beer Barrel to my online bouldering guide to Flagstaff Mountain, Ben Greenwood is credited in my draft with the FA of The Beer Barrel Loop in 1998 among other things. Additional evidence for his FA of this problem is as follows:

1. Sit-starts were not in... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Northeast Mantle (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: Admins, this problem ascends the northeast corner and is referred to as "Northeast Mantel" in Benningfield's CO Bouldering I and the FA is attributed to Ben Walburn, mid to late 1990s.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Zorro Arete (V6-7)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: Maybe TC, but the FA may also be attributed to JBisher, DLudders, JTarry or another one of the early developers and until I get a chance to talk to these guys. I'm going to hold off on guessing. Corrections are inevitable based on misinformation, but so far I've done my best to give credit where it is due and not make guesses with respect to Area A FAs. That said, I'm sure a few corrections will be necessary. I'll be around a lot this coming alpine season and will go back and edit incorrect info... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : Photo
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 28, 2009

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Comments: Andy and Peter ... I believe that was Matt Karacik's name for this problem, circa 2005. Ryan Fields subsequently came forward and said he had done it a few years earlier but to my knowledge, Ryan did not indicate that he named it.

To those that are following the recent comments regarding Eldo boulder problems in and around the Musicals, the things down in the gullies all the way to the Blue Whale Area, the Physicals, the Metaphysicals AND BEYOND, someone choosing to document the proper names an... more >>


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