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Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : Tec-9 (5.10a)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know it's bolts, but i was on this about a month ago and recall a few spinning hangers and one of the lower bolts is in hollow rock. Well protected but be aware of these bolts for extra safety. Climb on.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : The Ramp (5.7)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently tried to onsight this with a full rack of c4's, a few c3's and a set of bd stoppers and used only 4 cams. If your gonna do this route, double up on small wires and only bring .75 - 3.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Empathy (5.10b)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb yesterday, didn't see a fifth bolt like it says but the last 15 foot (possibly where another bolt is missing) is 5.7 climbing. Great climb. Nearly no feet makes it difficult but also easy to see where that one and only foot placement actually is.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^There are four bolts on the tower. The first bolt is like 25' up, if you do the face i recommend getting a piece in, someone said theres a spot.. Bolt 2 is fine and Bolt 3 is the bolt at the ledge, falling before clipping this is most likely and i think most dangerous. Bolt 4 is pretty close to bolt 3 and after the crux move your pretty much standing normal. To help theres a really good hold on the left for lie-backing and clipping bolt 3. :)
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Arete (5.7+)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this little route, exposed and beautiful. I tried to lead first try because someone said it was all sport. When i reached the short traverse right w/ no pro i decided to TR. Bring a .75. If not the moves arent too sketchy to clip the first bolt, but whatever you do don't fall. Or just be smart and TR. Have fun!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Deviate Behavior (5.11c)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning - anchor point has spinning hangers, a guess would be they werent drilled deep enough. Use caution. 9/22/2012.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Crack of Dust (5.8)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rock On Right (5.10d)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 8/29/2012, the right bolt at the anchor (i believe it was a rawl stud and a metolius hanger) is loose leaving the nut twistable and the hanger spinning 360 degrees. Use caution, replace, or back up.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Karmic Relief (5.10a)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of August 27th, 2012, there is a large chest size boulder near the top that is coming loose. This boulder has a flake handhold that many may want to grab to pull themselves up over the ledge. Do not pull on this flake! There are other holds to grab. . . . Other than that great route. :) Be safe!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Suzie's Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clipping the sixth bolt is a bit difficult hanging on to thin holds and slopey feet but it's really fun. Ive dont at least 25 different routes at the gorge and this is so far my favorite. 5.8+ or 5.9-.
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