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Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Charlie S
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Point Rank: # 538
Total Points: 1,306
Last Year: 352
Last 30 Days: 11
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1189 | Routes 24 | Areas 4 | Photos 173 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 138 | Posts 279 | Stars 461 | Ratings 109
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Zot (5.11d R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : First Eleven (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Too bad the rock quality isn't better. The moves are fun but it's all kitty litter.

Getting down requires a little bit of creativity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A single rack of a blue alien to a BD #3 with a selection of mid size nuts and lots of alpine draws will get the confident leader to the summit.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m:
P1-P3
P4
P5-P6
P7
P8-P9
P10

Rap down and right to the top of The Flakes and then take the standard descent from there. 4 raps total. A 70m is required!!!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Women's Semi-Qualifier (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Unless something obvious was missed (or broke), and based on conversations with several others, this is unlikely 5.11b. Compared to Comp Splitter (11a), No Competition (11b), and She's the Bosch (5.11c), this is most likely 12a. The crux lurks after the last bolt.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Something else! Not as straight forward as it looks from the ground. Climbs a lot more like a face climb than a finger crack.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Featured Face (5.7 R)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Pro used:
#4 in a big pocket (maybe 20 feet up)
Slung slot (you have to hunt for it)
#0.3 after the giant last patina dinner plate

2 #2s and 1 #3 for the anchor way up and back.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: What a climb! Sustained and proud. Honestly, I couldn't differentiate difficulty between the 5.9 and 5.10 pitches. Full on effort and rewarding.

Seems to be a lot of discrepancy for the finish. We went "left" for pitch 7 and ended up in an overhanging offwidth. Apparently the same happens if you go right. We followed Steph Abegg's topo and it worked very well.

The fists (and subsequent discussion on off-fists) pitch is indeed a fists pitch. We took 3 #4s and managed. You have to ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the great topo, Steph! We used this on our weekend trip and it helped immensely.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Inconceivable (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: I must have done it wrong. The first part (Inconceivable) was enjoyable, technical climbing. The second part (Inconceivably busted) felt harder and more powerful than the first half. Quality route all around.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: I only post the good photos!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : Double Cracks (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Got the redpoint on this route as a "victory lap" after onsighting Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b) , but I'm not sure which is easier.

I'm sure there must be a 5.10a way to do it, I just haven't figured it out yet.

Gently overhanging, and well worth the effort!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: Wow, what an awesome route! Every move is memorable.

Green alien can protect the moves from the flake to the first bolt.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Party Mix (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure why this doesn't have more stars, but it is a fantastically good line on less-than-vertical rock with thin edging, hand-foot matching, and mantling up perfect granite features. The cruxes are certainly don't blow it, but if you're controlled you won't have a problem.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Southern Rock Opera (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: A long approach and descent bookend this incredible climb. Heavy on the #0.3s! The climb also take nuts but your second will hate you for it.

Strenuous and sustained with varying crack shapes. Read: a myriad of techniques are required to make the ascent and it's not over until you make the final step on to the ledge.

The first 10-15' are inviting and protect well to get you out of ledge fall zone.

Definitely worth the effort but save it for a cooler day.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the history! FA info added.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: The start is sequential but definitely 11a. Protects well and has a brilliant finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Dave. If I understand correctly then, the climber is on Bone Crack in this case? Kind of funny to have a climb called "Drew's Corner/Dihedral" which goes up a face, but stranger things have happened!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: There appears to be some confusion as to the location of Bone Crack and Drew's Corner. Drew's corner description clearly says "one bolt and gear" which this route fits. However, the line drawn in the guidebook seems to indicate that this arching crack is Bone Crack. The line drawn for Drew's Corner seems to be going straight up the face.

Based on descriptions and shared anchors, I'd speculate that this is indeed Drew's Corner, with Bone Crack over to the left a few more feet.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Twinkie (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: Another vote for doing all 3 pitches. Stellar! Fantastic climbing the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : The Traditionalist (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Patina Atoll (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.

You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.

However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Snakepit : Sega (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: The Goss guidebook suggests 5.11a. I'd go at 5.10+...ish. A few interesting moves but nothing in the 5.11 territory. Feet are nice and sticky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


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