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Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Charlie S
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Point Rank: # 517
Total Points: 1,435
Last Year: 260
Last 30 Days: 93
28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1311 | Routes 27 | Areas 4 | Photos 190 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 152 | Posts 315 | Stars 503 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag : Unknown 5.10a (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: This route can be distinguished by the steel biners on the chains.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Fun granite jug hauling. Who knew that existed, let alone in LCC!? Thanks to the developers! Despite the routes shorted by rock slide, it is still a worthy locale.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: This picture was key. Thanks for posting!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: And at the top (at the dead tree in this photo), you can traverse left back to the Sasquatch anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : My God, Your God (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: You can rap the entire route with a 70m.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: All holds solid today. Nice to have something more techy than its neighbor to the left, but more sustained than the 10s to the right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: A sweet line. Pitches 2 and 4 are awesome. Pitch 3 wasn't THAT bad...

Pitch 2 felt a lot like the cryptic edge climbing found in BCC. Pitch 4 was like a granite version of Goodro's Wall. Protects well the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: This climb has it all! Crimps, pockets, jugs, sidepulls, underclings, heel hooks, mantels, and even multiple hand jams. A stellar route on rock quality slightly better than Black Streak, though watch those lose edges.

Definitely felt like the ratings on the first two pitches should be reversed (5.10b then 5.10d). The upper 5.10 pitches climb totally different and felt substantially "easier" than the first two.

That being said, the 2nd pitch is basically 100&@PO... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Based on the comments above, this route doesn't get the credit it deserves. If you are a solid 5.10 climber, do not pass this up. The last two pitches' rock quality is significantly better than the bottom two.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : High on Crack (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This route is unfortunately home to several briar patches now. The arete/face to the left goes at about 5.6R.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: New first pitch sling anchor as of 5/23/2016.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Was going to do this today, but noticed the slung horn at the top of pitch 1 is no longer there. Bring your own or continue on to the 2nd pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7+) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, that belongs to Lindsey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Inertia Creeps (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: The first half of this route is technical slabbing.
The second half is a lot of fun.
Wise for the belayer to wear a helmet.
Found supplemental gear not needed. Slung the shrub at the end of the slab, otherwise, all bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Zot (5.11d R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : First Eleven (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Too bad the rock quality isn't better. The moves are fun but it's all kitty litter.

Getting down requires a little bit of creativity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A single rack of a blue alien to a BD #3 with a selection of mid size nuts and lots of alpine draws will get the confident leader to the summit.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m:
P1-P3
P4
P5-P6
P7
P8-P9
P10

Rap down and right to the top of The Flakes and then take the standard descent from there. 4 raps total. A 70m is required!!!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Women's Semi-Qualifier (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Unless something obvious was missed (or broke), and based on conversations with several others, this is unlikely 5.11b. Compared to Comp Splitter (11a), No Competition (11b), and She's the Bosch (5.11c), this is most likely 12a. The crux lurks after the last bolt.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Something else! Not as straight forward as it looks from the ground. Climbs a lot more like a face climb than a finger crack.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Featured Face (5.7 R)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Pro used:
#4 in a big pocket (maybe 20 feet up)
Slung slot (you have to hunt for it)
#0.3 after the giant last patina dinner plate

2 #2s and 1 #3 for the anchor way up and back.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: What a climb! Sustained and proud. Honestly, I couldn't differentiate difficulty between the 5.9 and 5.10 pitches. Full on effort and rewarding.

Seems to be a lot of discrepancy for the finish. We went "left" for pitch 7 and ended up in an overhanging offwidth. Apparently the same happens if you go right. We followed Steph Abegg's topo and it worked very well.

The fists (and subsequent discussion on off-fists) pitch is indeed a fists pitch. We took 3 #4s and managed. You have to ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the great topo, Steph! We used this on our weekend trip and it helped immensely.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Inconceivable (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: I must have done it wrong. The first part (Inconceivable) was enjoyable, technical climbing. The second part (Inconceivably busted) felt harder and more powerful than the first half. Quality route all around.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: I only post the good photos!


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