Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Charlie S

Charlie S
is a member of
Point Rank: # 553
Total Points: 1,343
Last Year: 200
Last 30 Days: 12
27 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 1254 | Routes 24 | Areas 4 | Photos 179 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 145 | Posts 304 | Stars 486 | Ratings 111
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has it all! Crimps, pockets, jugs, sidepulls, underclings, heel hooks, mantels, and even multiple hand jams. A stellar route on rock quality slightly better than Black Streak, though watch those lose edges.

Definitely felt like the ratings on the first two pitches should be reversed (5.10b then 5.10d). The upper 5.10 pitches climb totally different and felt substantially "easier" than the first two.

That being said, the 2nd pitch is basically 100&@PO... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Based on the comments above, this route doesn't get the credit it deserves. If you are a solid 5.10 climber, do not pass this up. The last two pitches' rock quality is significantly better than the bottom two.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : High on Crack (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: May 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is unfortunately home to several briar patches now. The arete/face to the left goes at about 5.6R.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: New first pitch sling anchor as of 5/23/2016.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Was going to do this today, but noticed the slung horn at the top of pitch 1 is no longer there. Bring your own or continue on to the 2nd pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7+) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Apr 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, that belongs to Lindsey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Inertia Creeps (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The first half of this route is technical slabbing.
The second half is a lot of fun.
Wise for the belayer to wear a helmet.
Found supplemental gear not needed. Slung the shrub at the end of the slab, otherwise, all bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Zot (5.11d R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : First Eleven (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Too bad the rock quality isn't better. The moves are fun but it's all kitty litter.

Getting down requires a little bit of creativity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A single rack of a blue alien to a BD #3 with a selection of mid size nuts and lots of alpine draws will get the confident leader to the summit.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m:
P1-P3
P4
P5-P6
P7
P8-P9
P10

Rap down and right to the top of The Flakes and then take the standard descent from there. 4 raps total. A 70m is required!!!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Women's Semi-Qualifier (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Unless something obvious was missed (or broke), and based on conversations with several others, this is unlikely 5.11b. Compared to Comp Splitter (11a), No Competition (11b), and She's the Bosch (5.11c), this is most likely 12a. The crux lurks after the last bolt.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Something else! Not as straight forward as it looks from the ground. Climbs a lot more like a face climb than a finger crack.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Featured Face (5.7 R)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pro used:
#4 in a big pocket (maybe 20 feet up)
Slung slot (you have to hunt for it)
#0.3 after the giant last patina dinner plate

2 #2s and 1 #3 for the anchor way up and back.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: What a climb! Sustained and proud. Honestly, I couldn't differentiate difficulty between the 5.9 and 5.10 pitches. Full on effort and rewarding.

Seems to be a lot of discrepancy for the finish. We went "left" for pitch 7 and ended up in an overhanging offwidth. Apparently the same happens if you go right. We followed Steph Abegg's topo and it worked very well.

The fists (and subsequent discussion on off-fists) pitch is indeed a fists pitch. We took 3 #4s and managed. You have to ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the great topo, Steph! We used this on our weekend trip and it helped immensely.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Inconceivable (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I must have done it wrong. The first part (Inconceivable) was enjoyable, technical climbing. The second part (Inconceivably busted) felt harder and more powerful than the first half. Quality route all around.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I only post the good photos!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : Double Cracks (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Got the redpoint on this route as a "victory lap" after onsighting Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b) , but I'm not sure which is easier.

I'm sure there must be a 5.10a way to do it, I just haven't figured it out yet.

Gently overhanging, and well worth the effort!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, what an awesome route! Every move is memorable.

Green alien can protect the moves from the flake to the first bolt.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Party Mix (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure why this doesn't have more stars, but it is a fantastically good line on less-than-vertical rock with thin edging, hand-foot matching, and mantling up perfect granite features. The cruxes are certainly don't blow it, but if you're controlled you won't have a problem.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Southern Rock Opera (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A long approach and descent bookend this incredible climb. Heavy on the #0.3s! The climb also take nuts but your second will hate you for it.

Strenuous and sustained with varying crack shapes. Read: a myriad of techniques are required to make the ascent and it's not over until you make the final step on to the ledge.

The first 10-15' are inviting and protect well to get you out of ledge fall zone.

Definitely worth the effort but save it for a cooler day.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the history! FA info added.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The start is sequential but definitely 11a. Protects well and has a brilliant finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Dave. If I understand correctly then, the climber is on Bone Crack in this case? Kind of funny to have a climb called "Drew's Corner/Dihedral" which goes up a face, but stranger things have happened!


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!