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Location: MT
By: Charlie Perry When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is really strange how Montanans want to keep areas a secret. I lived in Bozeman for ten years and climb about everywhere in the guide books and other areas not in guide books. Compared to other destination areas in the USA I do not see the big deal. I have never found one specfic area in Montana that I would consider a "Destination Climbing area" such as Red Rocks, City of Rocks, the Sierras or the Rockies. Just a smattering of crags here and there with lots of road between them. There is cli... more >>
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Location: CO : The Mountain Shop Grand Re-...
By: Charlie Perry When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to hear and about time. I hope the crew will be as good as the last Mountain Shop. I have missed shopping were the people really understand the gear. Seth was great to talk about climbing, climbs and he used the gear.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mo' Flo' Than Go (WI3)
By: Charlie Perry When: Jan 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did left side of Mo flo than go. Ice was brittle and traded out. Wouldn't call the pitch 3+. In its current condition it was harder than the left side of Jaws at 4. Did Jaws a week earlier. Lots of snow at the base and the climb was rather short and unaesthetic.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Charlie Perry When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12.31.07 left side 4 section was in and protectable. Center section would require soap and a towel cause your going to take a bath. Right section is top ropable; however, did not climb to ascertain protection status. Party was top roping this with a directional screw off of belay. Trail was packed.
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Location: CO : Happy Holidays and Merry Ch...
By: Charlie Perry When: Dec 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My son asked Santa Claus for a new baby boy for Christmas.
Santa replied; Send me your mommy little boy!
Merry Christmas to one and all.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: Charlie Perry When: Dec 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Sierra Eastside Area Restru...
By: Charlie Perry When: Dec 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try to reach Dave Neddles. He lives in Tahoe City and can be found via employees at Alpinglow climbing shop in Tahoe City. He has not only put up hundreds of routes in the Sierras but has climbed many more on the Eastside. He is basically a walking dictionary of eastside routes. Especially in the back country. If you know how to get ahold of Peter Croft he has Daves number.
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Location: CO : Gear Reviews - What do you ...
By: Charlie Perry When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hear that DMM is coming out with HB offset clones. Wondering how they compare to HB?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Charlie Perry When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the Barb yesterday. Here is some Barb Beta that may help.
Pitch 1-3: We simul-climbed the first three pitches to the start of the upper wall 5.6 pitch. This really helped time wise and with a 60m rope I was on pretty much nearing the top of the large grassy ledge before my partner was climbing and I walked along this large ledge as a moving belay to the base of the 5.6 pitch.
Pitch 5 (slanting 5.9 pitch) excellent. Have a #3 Camalot. First real good protection. Climb pitch unti... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Charlie Perry When: Jun 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route yesterday. It was good that my partner had climbed the route before, route finding was not that obvious. Then I did not study the route nor took a topo. I would suggest taking a full rack due to the varied placements. There are a few runout sections, however they offer solid climbing. If you are not adept in placing protection and setting belays, I would not attempt this route. Protection was not that straightforward and somewhat cerebral. The route also seemed sustained for t... more >>
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Location: CO : Rescue On Elcap Yesterday
By: Charlie Perry When: May 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: An adult can loose enough blood into the hip cavity to go into hypovolemic shock and die. People have also gone into shock from a compound broken femur and died. Those YOSAR first responders in the valley really do pull off miracles. There the Shiz with the balls to pull it off. Hats off to YOSAR!
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires)
By: Charlie Perry When: Feb 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The routes on these spires are high quality and fun; around 5.10B. Approach from the road is about five minutes (I'm slow)on a well marked trail. If you can find another party it is fun to set up a tyrolean traverse between the two towers. A single rope will do.
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Location: Urban Climber Buys Climbing...
By: Charlie Perry When: Jan 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am not of the younger generation. I started climbing around when friends were coming on the scene. I started climbing because I was into adventure in high far away places. I have been subscribing to Climbing almost from it's inception. I read climbing to inspire me. Something like "Cool, look at those photos of Slipstream in Canada" I want to climb that. If climbing is reduced to "Johnny is the first in the world to pull the 6.14 twenty foot cave problem" then I guess I am out. I just cannot s... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Charlie Perry When: Jan 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have been to Thailand Climbing as well as El Potrero twice. I much prefer El Potrero for climbing. My first visit was about ten years ago when Kurt Smith was putting up routes and Hormeros Climbing Ranch was the only option. My last trip to El Potrero was last year in February. I am a mid to hard 5.10 climber and there were more than enough classic climbs to keep us busy for ten days and many more that I want to go back and do.
There is also a really cool hot spring out in the middle of nowh... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Charlie Perry When: Jan 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Condition Report 01/09/2007 - Access: Main flow was wet with all vertical flows to right old brittle ice. I mainly hooked my way to the top with poor sticks. To access ice park car at reservoir parking lot. Walk on the road and take left at fork to small dam approximately 200 yards. Walk across dam. The trail to the falls should start there. This was my first time there, and we found fat bolts are well slung trees with double descending rings. You can easily climb the grade III section of the ma... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ...
By: Charlie Perry When: Dec 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great adventure and a great place to climb. However check out the routes first. A bolt has a short life expectancy, and you could be climbing on what looks like a perfectly good bolted route where the bolts' holding power amounts to a small RP. There is a local climbing shop were you can rent gear and get beta on routes. Don't think that in such a remote place you will be alone. When we were there the place was packed with Europeans and we stayed in Ao Nang. If you are planning on goin... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Photo
By: Charlie Perry When: Dec 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bottom ice in good shape. Top section thin and would be hard to drive a good screw. Better top roped. To get to Hidden Falls, park and walk to ranger station. Follow trail up to Copeland falls sign. Take left crossing stream. Find trail and follow for a little bit. You will see falls on left. To top rope: From the base of the falls(facing the falls) head left following cliff. I took first step ravine possible to top of falls. I also took a second rope to tie off to a tree about 30 feet back from... more >>
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
By: Charlie Perry When: Oct 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed that some of the routes going up are lower grade R and X. My suggestion is to make these routes non R or X for the following reasons.
1. The City of Rocks is known and acclaimed for its bolted safe climbing. There are plenty of other areas in the nation that sport routes that are hairy. Like in my neighborhood, Fort Collins.
2. By putting up R and X routes you are limiting the number of people who would climb these routes. Is it fair for a hard 11 climber to put up a 5.7 R-X? Anybody... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome
By: Charlie Perry When: Jul 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: West entrance is more primitive and there is limited camping sites without access to water. East entrance sports a camping ground. However most routes on Rockfellow Dome have better access from the west side.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Twin Owls Parking Lot - Upd...
By: Charlie Perry When: May 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is unfortunate. For some reason I do not think that the climbing community was represented in the best of light considering this issue. I was just climbing at Sundance. One of the premiere cliffs at Lumpy. The extra distance will be a burden and for what?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Charlie Perry When: Jul 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replacing old bolts on Idiot Wind/ adding a rap station on the big ledge and the top of Icarus: (Please email me or call for comment qualitylighting@hotmail.com or 970-267-8685, ask for Charlie.
I am trying to contact the first ascentionist. However they are not on this site nor can I find an individual site for them, no luck so far. I am hoping the replacement of bad existing bolts will not be a problem on Idiot Wind. The real additions to the cliff would be two rap stations that get you from ... more >>
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