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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon

Point Rank: # 200
Total Points: 2,936
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 1
20 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 2007 | Routes 146 | Areas 26 | Photos 144 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 363 | Posts 384 | Stars 833 | Ratings 110
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Rotissima Bueno (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Despite what Steiger's topo shows, I think the place he is talking about in his description is actually about 15-20 feet above the pin, where the thin crack in the corner opens up enough to take a .75 camalot. When we tried the route last summer, I saw the first place to step out just above the pin, but kept lie-backing up the corner to the .75 pod. I thought it was about 11- from the pin to the pod. From the pod on, though, the corner seemed virtually impossible. I couldn&@P... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reefer Madness (5.10- R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: I attempted this climb again recently, and the second pitch seemed like it has become looser. The door-sized flake was just as I remembered it (i.e., pretty terrifying), but not any worse. However, there is a flake wedged in the main crack which I used to jam and place pro behind which now seems to have partially broken off and is visibly loose. Maybe due to freeze-thaw action? It makes this section scarier and more committing, and I ended up backing off.

It's certainly pos... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Didn't mean to stir up such a controversy! The majority opinion drawn from MP, facebook, and real life seems to be that there's not much shade and it's not super baby or kid friendly. But there were some dissenting voices :)

And don't worry, I am not going to post this question on every crag on the mountain, as I have been to most of the likely candidates...just had never been here for whatever reason.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Jbak. Any thoughts on bringing the kiddo?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: From the description, it sounds like maybe you can chase shade here as there are routes on both the east and west aspects, is that right? Also, would folks describe this as a kid (baby in my case) friendly crag? Mostly looking for level staging areas out of the line of any rockfall from the climbs. Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Unknown (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Worthwhile, although the tree is a bit annoying, which knocks off a star for me. Good gear, but I thought it was more like 5.9 if you don't use the tree. I merged with the 9+ sport route to the left and found that there were still good gear placements all the way to the chains.

Note that this isn't listed in SQLIII.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Wall of the Trundling Troll...
By: Charles Vernon When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: You can hike the drainage directly down from Rose Canyon Lake to where it hits the main drainage just below the Troll Wall. I thought this was fun, and maybe more direct, but it doesn't save any time and may have involved some bushwacking in places.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Read the comments above.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Down Under
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: Several people mention rotten rock and wearing helmets, but Ms. LaTufa says it's a kid-friendly crag. I'm in the market for kid-friendly, but loose rock coming off the cliff doesn't seem compatible with that. Is there a place you can set the kid up (accompanied by watchful adult) reasonably near the cliff, but away from the line of fire? My daughter is 2 months, so not going to walk or crawl away anywhere, but my greatest fear is having her beaned by rockfall (2nd greatest is bees).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Few Species (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I've led both the original (twice!), and "variation #2," and Scott is right that the latter is definitely better. However, I've found that it's easy to get sucked into the original, because the climbing and pro is a bit more obvious in the undercling out right. If you end up doing this, it's still very worthwhile, but I would recommend just using the anchor out right instead of cutting back left. You might feel like a bit of a chump for going 'off route', but the rope drag after coming out... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Petty Theft (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: The route description above with all the talk of crack-switching is confusing. Don't most people just climb the most obvious, continuous crack from bottom to top? It's about 5.5 or 5.6, a fun crack/chimney with loads of big supplemental edges and ledges. Protects well aside from the finishing chimney, bring a couple #3 camalots if you want to really sew it up. There is gear in the final chimney too, but it's not as obvious.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like I'itoi still managed to have a little fun with you guys :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Kor Wall (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: The Backcountry Guide describes the direct "Blind Ambition" finish to this route. We did it on a whim and thought it was awesome--the best part of the route. I haven't done the regular finish to compare, but Blind Ambition has some serious exposure and exciting (but moderate) climbing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: It should be noted that you can easily approach all the west face routes from the east, if you want. Once you hit the SE Arete from the east, it is only about 10-15 minutes more to the area where most of the west face routes start. The advantages of this approach are (1) you don't need to get a permit ahead of time; (2) you pass the spring; and (3) you get to traverse the most spectacular part of Lion's Ledge, directly under the overhanging east face. The disadvantages (depen... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sun Baked (No Longer Exists... (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Does this make Canada Eric the Cassandra of Southern Arizona??


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Pay No Attention to the Man... (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 24, 2015

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Comments: I, for one, quite enjoyed using the slot on this route and would recommend that you use it as well. What do you guys have against finger slots??


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Jon, honestly I think you could make a case for the upper part of the finger crack, the traverse from the finger crack to the roof, or actually pulling the roof. For me it was the traverse. The roof will probably be the crux for shorter people.

On the other hand, if you try to turn the roof out left where the fixed nut is (or was), like I did on my first time up this pitch, that will most definitely be the crux.

If people think this is too much beta I'll delete the comment and message Jon dir... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: Changed it to "finger-sized gear" to be more accurate. Thanks.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : West Chimney (5.2)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: It appears that the rope has been cleaned and the bees may not bee an issue any longer (if they were to begin with):

mountainproject.com/v/warning-...


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : West Chimney (5.2)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: WARNING: BEES ON WEST CHIMNEY! (and now, a fixed rope)

In what was probably the scariest moment of my climbing "career" (and my life!), I encountered a massive, angry cloud of bees just below the notch on the West Chimney route yesterday evening. I was by myself, and soloing the route, but trailing a rope to haul up a pack of camping gear. I set up a sling anchor as fast as I could, fixed my rope, and rapped all the way to the base of the technical climbing. I wasn't able to discern whether the... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hairy Interlude (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: There is a bomber 0.75 camalot a couple feet above the placement that pulled. On her first attempt she had both pieces in and fell on the .75. However, as I recall the .4/yellow alien is easy to place from the stance below the crux, while the .75 must be placed mid-crux, depending on your height (I think it also takes up a good hold/jam). On her second attempt, with both of those pieces still in place, she climbed up, clipped only the .4 from the good stance, and hung. After a minute or so the p... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: There is an optional, short 4th pitch to the dome's summit which I highly recommend, because it only takes 10-15 minutes and the summit is really cool--narrow and exposed. The pitch climbs the wall behind the anchor at the top of the third pitch, with an interesting move of 5.8 or so, well protected by a bolt. There are rap anchors on top.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Parole (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: The bolt at the roof has a new hanger now. A medium tricam helps if you want pro above the roof before the anchor. It's easy, but a fall would be horrible.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hairy Interlude (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: Wow...in October I caught a friend of mine on almost the exact same fall at the crux of this route. The 'perfect' finger sized cam at the crux pulled (under body weight, actually--she was hanging on the piece) and she narrowly missed hitting the ground. She had been trad climbing for many years with many falls and this was the first piece she had ever pulled in a fall. A cam down and left barely kept her off the ground.

Out of curiosity, what specific piece did you fall on, Andrew? She fell on... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: One 60 meter rope works for the standard descent.


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