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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 167
Total Points: 2,952
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 2
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1923 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 373 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Southeast Arete (5.6) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: 5 hours ago

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Comments: Agreed, that is very bad beta (unless of course...you want to climb Humungous Woosey ;>) ;>))


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Charles Vernon When: 4 days ago

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Comments: How hard is the second pitch of this route?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Maybe my comment wasn't clear. Due to mountainproject's missing and inaccurate information, they chose to bypass the Canyon altogether.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Attention admins:

Two people have written me in recent weeks to complain that they wanted to stop by the Black on a climbing trip to do just a route or two, using the MP.com app to navigate. However, the above description does not explain how to get to the SOB gully to find Escape Artist (and Comic Relief, et al.). So, I checked this page to find that, to my surprise, (1) my name is listed as contributing the non-existent "North Chasm View Wall" description, and (2) a bunch of routes a... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: I love how this photo wonderfully captures a bright, windy spring day in RMNP.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Little Sandy Valley : Point 11440, East Buttress
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: This is a wide, steep, impressive wall. About 10 years ago I climbed the two routes listed in the Kelsey guide. They were both really good, and the guidebook descriptions were sufficient to get us up the routes. Symbiosis (the prominent corner on the far right side of the photo above) in particular was excellent, sustained and as good as anything I've done in the Winds, although I haven't done Black Elk. It was dirty, as I think it's rarely climbed, and the wall seems to be wet for much of the s... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Lightning Streaks (5.7 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Glad to see that someone else got on this crazy route! Sounds like you guys had a good adventure. More people should do this route.

I hope I didn't sandbag with the pro rating. Since chimneys are commonly run-out to begin with, I guess it seems like it would take a lot to get an X-rating. Like, both poor/no pro and insecure climbing. I felt that the first pitch was pretty secure. But you are absolutely right, it IS possible to fall out and you would probably hit the ground if that happened. The... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments:

Yeah, to back up Guy's comment, look at the upper third of the tower from this profile view. Looks like it could just slide right off...right in the direction of the slackline's force. Regardless of whether climbing had any impact on the Cobra, this just seems like a terrible idea. Not sure that climbing it was a much better idea, though, and I did it anyway....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : It Crack (5.11b)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know who added these anchors and why? I am sure the person had good intentions, but to me they mar a very good climb. There is excellent gear where the bolts are but you have to be able to hang on and place it (maybe plugging a good jam), and that may even be the climb's crux (unless you've got it all wired). The bolts are a distracting temptation, and I can't see what the benefit is, as they are well below the top of the climb. They do not make it easier to set up a toprope, or to l... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Clay, just saw this. I believe "that hog" roughly follows the series of corners highlighted by yellow lichen on the right side of the photo. No doubt, someone needs to free this rig ;>)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Corner Route (5.12-) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: How hard is this variation?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: That's a great photo of the route. Moonscape is also fully visible in this photo; if it's ok I'll borrow it for the Moonscape page. I haven't climbed Harvest Moon (5.11 AO R), but I think that's also fully visible. Maybe someone can speak on that.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: At the amazing Heart of Stone event this past weekend, Dave Baker confirmed that the FFA was actually in 1971. It was awesome to hear Joanna Coleman and Dave Baker reminisce about this climb. They asked how many people in the audience had done it and I was really surprised at how many people raised their hands. I was tempted to ask why they didn't do a better job cleaning it, but I decided not to be a smart-ass.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Some kind soul recently moved the second bolt a foot lower, greatly improving the flow and safety of the lower section, not to mention mercifully putting a stop to the ongoing whine-fest here. No longer a bomb (but still 11-, and harder than Stealin'!) in my book. Thanks to whoever did it. Note that if you're short, you still might have the issues noted above.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Funny, I had similar experiences. A ringtail (or maybe a coati...it was dark) stole our steak out of camp. And I definitely did some tree climbing on this route...right after kicking steps in the snow!

As far as the FFA, I got that info from Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona (see the link above)...do you know of an earlier free ascent other than yours? Maybe it's just a typo with the date and those guys did it earlier in the '70s?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Eric, first of all, thanks for identifying this problem and so promptly fixing it. I just made a long-overdue donation to the ASCA.

I have only placed a few bolts in my life and wouldn't have been able to identify these as bad bolts. How was it that you were able to identify these as 5/16 sleeve bolts and/or bad bolts? Any tips? It sounds like there may be a lot of them around here....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: That's pitch 4 of Moby Dick, not Dem Bones. Dem Bones climbs the distinctive dike that looks like a dinosaur spine, well right of the last pitch of Moby Dick. P4 of Moby Dick is great, but you miss the signature feature of Dem Bones.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Is that giant chockstone as terrifyingly precarious as it looks?!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: I was Slaton's friend who "got through the crux on lead." I did it by straining at the absolute limit of my reach (I'm 5'11") off terrible holds to get the draw through the bolt, then quickly grabbing the draw to clip in lieu of decking. Pretty annoying--might be worth it if there was something more than 20 feet of 5.8 above, but there's not. That said, like jbak says this route does give you the opportunity to practice skills that you might need, on routes that *are* worth it. Other than that I... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: You will encounter locked gates that you need a code to open.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Heinoid Mind-Bendo, a 6 pitch 5.10 Jeff Mayhew route. Contact him for more info. I think he may have told me it's not as sustained, scary, or good as the North Face, but my memory is a bit hazy.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: If Darth was the first ascentionist's father's brother's nephew's cousin's former roommate, I might consider giving them back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Even jerks and reprobates should get their draws back :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: With all due respect, Geir, I don't think getting one's draws back should have anything to do with whether one is a "really nice guy" (or was climbing with the first ascentionist, or etc.). If it's the right thing to do, then it's the right thing to do--period.


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