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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 160
Total Points: 2,966
Last Year: 78
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1909 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvments | Comments 365 | Posts 343 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : It Crack (5.11b)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know who added these anchors and why? I am sure the person had good intentions, but to me they mar a very good climb. There is excellent gear where the bolts are but you have to be able to hang on and place it (maybe plugging a good jam), and that may even be the climb's crux (unless you've got it all wired). The bolts are a distracting temptation, and I can't see what the benefit is, as they are well below the top of the climb. They do not make it easier to set up a toprope, or to l... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Clay, just saw this. I believe "that hog" roughly follows the series of corners highlighted by yellow lichen on the right side of the photo. No doubt, someone needs to free this rig ;>)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Corner Route (5.12-) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: How hard is this variation?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: That's a great photo of the route. Moonscape is also fully visible in this photo; if it's ok I'll borrow it for the Moonscape page. I haven't climbed Harvest Moon (5.11 AO R), but I think that's also fully visible. Maybe someone can speak on that.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: At the amazing Heart of Stone event this past weekend, Dave Baker confirmed that the FFA was actually in 1971. It was awesome to hear Joanna Coleman and Dave Baker reminisce about this climb. They asked how many people in the audience had done it and I was really surprised at how many people raised their hands. I was tempted to ask why they didn't do a better job cleaning it, but I decided not to be a smart-ass.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Some kind soul recently moved the second bolt a foot lower, greatly improving the flow and safety of the lower section, not to mention mercifully putting a stop to the ongoing whine-fest here. No longer a bomb (but still 11-, and harder than Stealin'!) in my book. Thanks to whoever did it. Note that if you're short, you still might have the issues noted above.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Funny, I had similar experiences. A ringtail (or maybe a coati...it was dark) stole our steak out of camp. And I definitely did some tree climbing on this route...right after kicking steps in the snow!

As far as the FFA, I got that info from Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona (see the link above)...do you know of an earlier free ascent other than yours? Maybe it's just a typo with the date and those guys did it earlier in the '70s?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Eric, first of all, thanks for identifying this problem and so promptly fixing it. I just made a long-overdue donation to the ASCA.

I have only placed a few bolts in my life and wouldn't have been able to identify these as bad bolts. How was it that you were able to identify these as 5/16 sleeve bolts and/or bad bolts? Any tips? It sounds like there may be a lot of them around here....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: That's pitch 4 of Moby Dick, not Dem Bones. Dem Bones climbs the distinctive dike that looks like a dinosaur spine, well right of the last pitch of Moby Dick. P4 of Moby Dick is great, but you miss the signature feature of Dem Bones.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Is that giant chockstone as terrifyingly precarious as it looks?!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: I was Slaton's friend who "got through the crux on lead." I did it by straining at the absolute limit of my reach (I'm 5'11") off terrible holds to get the draw through the bolt, then quickly grabbing the draw to clip in lieu of decking. Pretty annoying--might be worth it if there was something more than 20 feet of 5.8 above, but there's not. That said, like jbak says this route does give you the opportunity to practice skills that you might need, on routes that *are* worth it. Other than that I... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: You will encounter locked gates that you need a code to open.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Heinoid Mind-Bendo, a 6 pitch 5.10 Jeff Mayhew route. Contact him for more info. I think he may have told me it's not as sustained, scary, or good as the North Face, but my memory is a bit hazy.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: If Darth was the first ascentionist's father's brother's nephew's cousin's former roommate, I might consider giving them back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Even jerks and reprobates should get their draws back :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: With all due respect, Geir, I don't think getting one's draws back should have anything to do with whether one is a "really nice guy" (or was climbing with the first ascentionist, or etc.). If it's the right thing to do, then it's the right thing to do--period.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Hey Alex, I wonder if you took the rightmost option on the topo--up and a bit right from the bolt? I remember that looked like no man's land. I have done this climb several times and there definitely shouldn't be any 5.11 15-20 feet out if done "normally" ie the middle option, which moves up and left. Maybe 5-10 feet out at most.

Just noticed dancesatmoonrise's comment and fun little story--if this was bumped up it happened a long time ago, as it's rated 5.11 in Steiger's guide published almos... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Five Mile Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Must be that grade deflation everyone's always complaining about :)

Seriously, I wouldn't argue with 9 & 10+. Damn hard moves off the belay on Town Without Pity.

You do any of the other routes out there Jbak? Any recommendations? After seeing the campsites and the view I want to go back just so I can camp out!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Chiboni (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: The third bolt hanger is loose. I attempted to tighten it with my nut tool wrench, but was unable to get it flush with the rock as it's in a little depression. It needs a real wrench. I did hand-tighten it, but that won't last long.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Mike, I think typically the multi-pitch routes on the Fortress all use the standard walk-off descent from the top, unless the route description specifies otherwise. There is a good description for this descent in the first comment on the rock page.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Really hot and yes.

[edit] Then again, I see you're from Phoenix. Perhaps you'll have a different perspective on "heat."


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Duck Soup (5.6) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Definitely not Duck Soup. Looks like Griffo.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: That is amazing. How long is the approach? How hard are the routes, if any?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?


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