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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Percha Creek, Hillsboro : Photo
By: Charles Cundiff When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right side:
For the whole Guide to this section email me: charliecundiff at yahoo dot com.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Abu Simbel (5.10a)
By: Charles Cundiff When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like a lot of the routes in this area, the bolting job is suspect. Why put the anchors out of reach and off the line? The crux of the route is clipping the anchors.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tuff Shed (aka B&C) (5.10a)
By: Charles Cundiff When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll agree with Slim on this. Much closer to 5.8 than 5.10.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four weeks out from hand surgery! Yeah it's no 12c, but it probably adds a letter grade to the difficulty of the route overall. 5.11d would be a good grade for this route anywhere.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Gaucho (5.10d)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll second Matt's comment. I lead Zorro after this (onsight) and I was definitely more pumped on Gaucho! I tried to climb around (onto Zorro) to clip the chains, but alas, there are no holds up there! At 5'6", it was sure a crank to clip those chains that were swinging in the breeze.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh, and I never ever thought to climb that thing. Next time.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : My Little Dick (5.10a)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... and I do highly recommend (as mentioned in the route description) linking this with Nick's Loose Flake to get back down. It's what I ended up doing because after I finished I happened to have two #2s and one #1 Camalots left on my harness (which is just about perfect for the second "pitch").
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Justin, I just read the letter in your conditions report (missed it before somehow). Dang!! All I knew about the situation was what I gathered from Bob that day. I'd be damn pissed, too. If someone is too incompetent to remove an "offensive" bolt, they obviously have no place doing so, or even in judging it as such.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : Public Enemy (5.11c)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a green extender on the second bolt. Looks like it had been there for awhile, but if it was left on purpose (for working the route) let me know. Seems like a waste to leave 2 biners and an extender to bail with.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : My Little Dick (5.10a)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a good route, though you could have painted those shiny bolts. It looks like a Christmas tree. I think that they are perfectly placed to give it a bold feeling while still being quite safe.
It felt like 5.10 to me as I hopped on it knowing nothing about the route. It could be 9+ if you aren't scared, but I think that a 10b would be a bit soft. But, since I haven't climbed any other slabs at Vedauwoo I can't really compare.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: @mike1 Yeah, I don't know who's chopping his bolts, or if he's just imagining it, but I heard a huge rant from him today about that. I thought he was going to kill somebody, but when I went over to check it out he was by himself just yelling.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel
By: Charles Cundiff When: Jul 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, I got lost, too. Don't go here for the first time if you are under any time constraint. It'll likely take a bit to find your bearings, but once you understand the canyon, it shouldn't be too difficult to find your way around.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Crack a Smile (5.11c)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Jul 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #0.4 Camalot works nicely mid crux. A #0.75 can go in the slab above but isn't necessary.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Grande Finale (5.12d PG13)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Jul 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know how many holds Peter broke, but I can't find any good way to start this route, other than pulling on the second draw to move into the gaston. Otherwise the route is great.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Jul 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bringing a 70m rope is nice for this climb. I opted (accidentally) to extend the first pitch all the way to the base of the dihedral of the second pitch. This gains you a nice, flat, belay stance.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Citadel : Arch Rival (5.9)
By: Charles Cundiff When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys are smarter than I am. When I first stared climbing I just led Anticipation up to that bolt and fell trying to clip it. Luckily I was 19 and dumb enough to try it again immediately upon discovering that I didn't break both my ankles.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, if we survive the Needle on Tuesday (Sept 8) maybe we'll be back out next year.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bringing out the old man in September for a 50th anniversary ascent! Can we get a 69 year old in shape in a month?
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Vedauwoo Dome : Cultural Learnings of Ameri... (5.8)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sophie Evitt
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely take a few small cams to make your own belays. Especially at mid-cliff and for the last pitch.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7) : Photo
By: Charles Cundiff When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't worry. At least the chains aren't very strong either. Rated chains would have cost another $1 a foot.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Lesser Spire : Cacahuate (5.10- A1-)
By: Charles Cundiff When: Mar 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cacahuate 5.10-
FA Edmund Ward, Mark Motes, Karl Kiser and Cathy Dunn.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: Charles Cundiff When: Oct 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in progress, a more definitive guide to the Organs (and the Mesilla Valley). Everything else is finished (ie. Dona Ana's, Rough and Readies, Percha Creek, and Pena Blanca. It's going to be hard to finish though, as I'm currently living in Ft. Collins Co. Anyone who wants to put together something comprehensive on Orp, the Lesser Spire or the Rabbit Ears... it would be helpful. I don't have good stuff on Bastion or the Card Deck either. Also, names of routes on La Cueva? All I know is ... more >>
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