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Rock Climbing Photo: hello

Member Since: May 6, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact ChanVan

Point Rank: # 1,296
Total Points: 588
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has ChanVan been climbing?


All 330 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 33 | Stars 111 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13a/b)
By: ChanVan When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Wow, what an incredible line - took me a really long time to learn all of the subtleties - body positioning, how to move quickly and 'believe' in the crux slimpers, pinches. and knobs (oh my!), and to realize that you really can't 'relax' until you are established on the upper slab below the roof. I can't really say what I think the grade is - I have never before sent an established 13b, but I can say that this one ended up taking a lot more effort than any of the 13a's I have done over the year... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Spoiled Moose (5.13- R)
By: ChanVan When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Whoa! Nice one! Scoped that line with a friend, and they came suuuper close to adding a bolt to the face after the rest. Looks like the bar has been raised! That is quite the runout on gear and way hard! Kudos on a bad-ass send!

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Mordor (5.12b/c)
By: ChanVan When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Very cool route - hard/ somewhat scary second clip due to swing potential - I used a long quickdraw on the second bolt. After you get that clipped, tiny feet through the crux section with some hard crimpin' but mercifully brief. The rest of the climb after that is amazing, 5.11, steep, edge climbing with mega exposure. Rad.

Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Futile Attraction (5.11c/d)
By: ChanVan When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Not to be a naysayer here, but I didn't think this route was all that great after the first 30 feet (the sweet crack and arete). To stay out on the face and go directly up past the bolts seems totally contrived, as you can easily step right into the chossy corner the whole way up. I took the path of least resistance and ended up basically climbing half on the face half in the kitty litter corner, which was kind weird and had a lot of pebbles falling on my belayer. I fully understand that that cr... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Obscurity Risk (5.12a)
By: ChanVan When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: A little scary at the start. I climbed up and hung off the first fixed nut to back it up, then lowered and fired from the start with the fixed nut and back-up nut already clipped. No decking potential that way. Cool route overall- steep and funky with a back-up available next to almost every fixed piece.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Mexican Picnic (5.12b/c)
By: ChanVan When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: Great line! Harder than it seemed at first. Placing the gear after the last bolt is pumpy, but it's there if you can hang around to find it - then all you have to worry about is the crux! Tons of slings are helpful.

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: ChanVan When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Did this route come from a funky ball of teets from outer space?

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: ChanVan When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Split Personality (5.12)
By: ChanVan When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'.

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Little Secrets (5.12b)
By: ChanVan When: Oct 7, 2011

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Comments: Not sure if I was on the right route (I did the one immediately left of NTB), but I did not find the beginning to be cruxy at all- really just big moves between excellent holds- also, there is a perfect hand crack just right of the upper headwall that one can still easily clip from, so I did not find the top to be all that tweaky- right side in crack, left on face- either way it is a great route, but 12b seems quite high for the grade.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Prince of Thieves (5.12b)
By: ChanVan When: Sep 2, 2011

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Comments: I can't believe this route only gets two stars in the book! In my opinion, one of the best 12b's in the Canyon - bullet rock, cool moves, and pretty long by Bocan standards. Go do it!

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: ChanVan When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: BIG THANKS to whoever recently added the 2-bolt anchor on top of this rig. Grade, stars for direct start. Hard 12b crux at 2nd bolt, then finicky but good small & medium gear with another 12- crux about 3/4 up. Not as heads up as I expected although I definitely figured the gear out on TR first. A notch or two harder and just as awesome as its 4-star neighbors to the right.

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c)
By: ChanVan When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Agreed- to not use the horn out left (if you can reach it) seems silly...using it makes it a 4-star 12b while forcing yourself to not use it makes it contrived 12c- whatever floats yer boat.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : The Juice (5.12d)
By: ChanVan When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Got on this for the first time the other day- climbs way better than it looks from below- lots of long moves between positive crimps. The quality is diminished by the fact that it shares a rest with Hot Flyer to the right (and possibly another hold?).

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: ChanVan When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: *CONDITION REPORT* The big jug chockstone in the middle of the P3 direct roof pitch is VERY LOOSE. Use extreme caution!

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Standing Eight Count (5.11c)
By: ChanVan When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: V3-4 boulder problem start to awesome sculpted jugs up high. Hard for the grade and way classic.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R)
By: ChanVan When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: This is a great route- techy, pumpy, and a bit spicy. The PG-13 refers to the start, which is probably 10+. There is an obvious, bomber, small cam to protect the move up to the rail, then a #1 Peanut to protect the move to the jug. The rest of the gear is bomber but pumpy to place for sure. I called this 11c only, because IMHO it is much easier than Englishman's...might also be easier than CCC for many. In any case, awesome route that the competent 5.11 leader should not shy away from.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Englishman's Home (5.11+)
By: ChanVan When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Awesome route. No doubt one of the best trad lines in Boulder Canyon. One little tip for those who are interested: if you are going for the whole thing as one pitch, I highly recommend bringing triples (at least) of finger and big finger size cams (yellow and orange Metolius or equivalent) as well as extras in the #6 stopper/ #4 rock range.

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Head Jam (5.6)
By: ChanVan When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Can anyone say SANDBAG?!? So many happy memories of watching people flail epically on this thing...check yer ego at the door.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Ticket (5.12a)
By: ChanVan When: Jan 17, 2010

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Comments: Definitely stiff compared to other 12as in Boulder Canyon- quite sequential, with a good mix of power and endurance- great route!!

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12c)
By: ChanVan When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Great route!

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Main Wall : Winged Mongrel (5.10a)
By: ChanVan When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: IMHO, this climb is not PG13 at all- assuming you can hang around to place it, there is great gear throughout. While due to the pumpy nature of the climb it is probably good to be very solid at the grade before leading it, it is quite safe overall. Amazing climb!

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Vascular Disaster (5.11c PG13)
By: ChanVan When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: There is currently a cheater block at the base, which makes the boulder problem definitely more like 11+, even for the shorter folks

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Bat Attack (5.12b)
By: ChanVan When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: If you are really solid at the grade you might not need the RB- there is a bomber bolt about four feet below it to keep you off the deck- you would have to commit to the layback to clip the fixed wire, which seems bomber but is definitely small (#5 BD Steel)- the next pro is pretty damn far away though- might make the lower section more like 12a PG13...

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: ChanVan When: Feb 21, 2009

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Comments: Killer route to do sans light on a full moon!

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