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Member Since: Jun 10, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 1, 2005
Contact Chamo Breslin


Point Rank: # 7,608
Total Points: 38
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chamo Breslin been climbing?










Contributions


All 15 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bourgeois Belay Slave aka B... (5.10a/b)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: I think the ac's right: no need to inflate here. Keep it at an honest .10b.

Great route, cheers to the FA.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Diesel and Dust (5.11)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Sep 10, 2004

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Comments: Confused about this route: at the top, before the angle kicks back, I always traverse right up a small ramp, make the last clip awkwardly, then move up and back directly left to get to the anchors. This seems so weak to me, doesn't follow the line of protection, and leaves me feeling like I still haven't climbed this route. But I've dogged for minutes on end contemplating that last steep section that stays true to the line of bolts and can't even see a hold. Any help on this? Pura vida.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Tractatus (5.11a)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: Sharp hold at the crux. It's possible to top rope this route after leading 21st Century Man; just leave a quickdraw on the anchors as a directional as you are lowered off of 21st to cancel the potential pendulum.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Aug 12, 2004

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Comments: Thinking to myself "What information would someone who has never climbed this route find useful" I'd say this: bring two liters of water/person if you're alright with the weight; and, the most serious climbing comes in the latter half of the pitch off of the pizza pan belay, not because it's the hardest but because of its runout nature. Be sure to sling the old, fixed hex that's in a horizontal pocket - it helped me psychologically and it seemed solid to boot. Muy chevere.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Beat Me Up, Scotty (5.10d)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Aug 11, 2004

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Comments: In my opinion, a better climb than Diesel and Dust, which the guidebooks talk up more.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Aug 5, 2004

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Comments: Don't, don't, don't stop to belay at the first anchor!! This classic climb becomes even more classic done as one pitch to the second alcove. No rope drag at all if you do the direct start and use slings. Just be sure to keep a #1 or #2 cam, or both, for the crux at the top.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Ga-stoned Again (5.9)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: It is a good climb. But to qualify it a bit: having to blow shit off the holds, to pick and choose where to use a jam because of the birds (visible) inside the crack, and hearing bats squealing from within the lurking darkness kept it from being a great climb for me. In spite of all that, I still thought it was good. And it keeps you psychologically sharp, fingers just inches away from a bat's grill, on lead. Got to be mentally bulletproof. I'd climb it again with pleasure.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Alligator Soup (5.9+)
By: Chamo Breslin When: Jun 18, 2004

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Comments: Rookie mistake: pitch one is not rated 15.9. Should be p1, 5.9/p2, 5.11d. Sorry about that.