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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: chad m. davis When: Aug 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I laugh when I am told that a party is going to climb this route. Just because it is old does by no means make it a classic ... well maybe a classic bomb. Even though Soler and El Cracko have harder ratings they are easier over the long haul. I have been told it is better for those who have the gifting of hieght. My wife and I did this once (she cussed nearly the whole way up and she RARELY cusses) and will never do this climb again. If it is on your tick list ... reconsider.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Star Dancer (5.8)
By: chad m. davis When: Aug 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did not think this climb was worth the effort it took to achieve the summit. There was no payoff that warrents this climb any stars ... let alone any dancing.Counted 10 clips. I recomend that if belaying inbetween the boulder and the climb for TR, that you leave in a draw at bolt 5 or 6, clipping it back into the system upon lowering. Doing this will prevent an ugly swing into the gully that separates Stardancer from Solo System.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Solo System (5.6)
By: chad m. davis When: Aug 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this after Gossamer (my wife wanted a climb preview before she lead it) and failed to enjoy it very much. It does not suck, but it is nothing to write home to your plants about. The bottom half has newer bolts but the top ones are somewhat rusty and found myself pondering the integrity of the chain/shut at the top due to their colouring as well. They broke and I died.OK, they held just fine and probably will for a few more seasons.My wife never lead it because the sun crept out from behi... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Picture Window : Gossamer (5.7)
By: chad m. davis When: Aug 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it 08/01/04 with my wife pulling the second for me. I counted only 3 bolts, maybe I blew past one but I doubt it. In the morning it was shadey (nice for a 90+ day) and cool. Gossamer is a MUST for the Dead Presidents Area.
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Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant
By: chad m. davis When: Jul 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just started to explore the area ... the opportunity does not present itself often (since I live in Lead), but since my wife and I are selling bread at the Farmer's Market (Honey Whole Wheat and quick breads), I decided to take my boy across the creek and check out Vegan Boulder.I suggest parking at the Farmer's Market/Prehistoric Fish/Volleyball parking area and wading across the creek. Always head towards the brick building (visible from parking lot) and you cannot miss Vegan. On your way back... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Bolts for Bob (5.8)
By: chad m. davis When: Jul 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife and I climbed it for the first time yesterday(07/15/04). Solid route that allowed our son (he's 1) to cheer for us as we danced through the crux (bolts 2 and 3) and topped out. Nice belay area that is shadey in the morning. This route is a must for the South Seas Area. If you are blessed, you may get to see a mountian goat.Lastly, the LEFT anchor nut was loose. I did my best to tighten it, but fingers are not equivical to a wrench.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Toy Boat : Putt Putt Toot Toot (5.7)
By: chad m. davis When: Jul 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice little route to play on while friends newer to climbing are on the opposite side learning, and plus it is in the shade.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: chad m. davis When: May 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: IHC is definitely .9 And the worst part is that its because of excessive traffic. I climbed it first only like seven years ago and couldn't get my hands into the crack. I remember there was one part to SQUEEZE a #2 Camalot in at the lip of the crux; I think people manking gear around in that pre crux manic attack have increased the wear. It's a shame people don't redistribute the wear a bit. climb some other cracks and definitely try not to top rope the whole team up the thin... more >>
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