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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Brown Banana (5.9)
By: cdec When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA climbed just to the right of the bolt line up better quality rock. The bolts were placed to the left in hopes of keeping folks from straying too far to the right on to easier ground. Clips are from good stances and shouldn't be reachy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian thanks for the photo and the comments. James and Michael thanks for the work. I'm sticking to what I said but do agree that the anchors are indeed safer and will help to open this route to a wider group. I'm no hardman and next go around I will indeed use them.
Enough about this, let's open up some of those other lines!!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: People aren't on this thing for the same reasons it is good. It's long, the route/pitch description is vague and some of the anchors were traditional. You probably needed to have a slightly bigger skillset than simply swing and clip. We're paving the road though and I know that I'm helping. By posting, TRs and drilling anchors now it's a "safe and without anxiety affair".
Let me say this it's early and I haven't done anything fun so I'm a bit fired up but it seems like James came at this with d... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : BBQ Brush (5.9)
By: cdec When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both this and ker-THUD need some traffic to clean up as did Bloody Elbows. This section of the wall has alot of lichen.
Neither are destine to become classics but both face North, are enjoyable and can be done with one rope. At 5.9 the Bloodys see alot of action. We think/hope these routes will round out a 1/2 day of moderate climbing at the Dihedrals.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall
By: cdec When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So the Candy Cane tree is down. Don't bother looking for it. We overshot the turn and ran down being chased by lightning. Going back this weekend to climb and get good approach beta.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: cdec When: May 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly easy and well protected. A wonderful beginner lead on quailty rock. My 5 yr. old daughter Emma brownsited it. She said "the most fun thing I've ever done."
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the entry is right. We got on this on 2/11/08 and it's super fun. Thinner than the picture that Brian posted but great climbing. I'd love to see it in that condition.
As far as anchors go I feel that with most routes sporting big shiny bolted stations that this one could be left as is. IMO it made for a much more interesting day of climbing not just gunning from anchor to anchor. The vague description of pitches, screw anchors and a little simul-climbing all combine for a full value... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: cdec When: Oct 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic route. Thanks to the FA's for the work it took to put this thing together for the rest of us to enjoy!!!
For it's grade as good as any of the Red Rocks classics. The 5.10 version of crimson, levitation or dark shadows. We climbed it on 10/28 and after much piecing together of beta here's my 2 cents.
Approach/Descent-Check out www.ericandlucie.com there's a great overview picture and description of the approach. I would do this approach rather than the one to Levitation any ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: cdec When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this today and the 8th bolt is there, can't see it from 7 but it's there. 7 to 9 would indeed be run out.
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