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Member Since: Jan 3, 2007
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,650
Total Points: 197
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has cdec been climbing?










Contributions


All 423 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 21 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 296 | Stars 47 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: The difficulty of the approach is overstated. 20 to 25 minutes on a good trail to the Reef. Another 3-5 minutes to the Rocket Reef.
You can rap Pocket Rocket and Riding the Rocket with a 60. Rap climbers right to the dirt on the side of the formation and walk down 70 feet on a good trail to packs. Not a great top rope.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Feline Stall Tactics (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: I was excited to get on this route after seeing the comparison to the Zion Curtain. About the only thing similar is that both pitches are rock. Comparing the two pitches is a crime. One is beautiful, long, exposed and clean. The other is this.

Saying that this thing wouldn't remain the same at the gate is being as delicate as one should be climbing the "flakes". Easy enough but frightful. At some point something big is coming down.

Feline stall tactics:
Easy corner to a single hand jam. Cont... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : The Leisure Route (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: Stevie,
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Little Tufa's (5.10)
By: cdec When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this in the spring of 2009 when we did Brown Banana. Thought it was worth a bit of cleaning and some bolts, wasn't sure though.
Have heard good things. Thanks for putting in the time and money.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : The Leisure Route (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clip... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Creekside Crag : Alien (5.10a R)
By: cdec When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: The route, as mentioned, now sports 5 closely spaced bolts. Still very fun. No longer even close to R.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : ker-THUD! (5.9)
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Surprised to hear about run out. We thought it was pretty reasonable. Run out from the bolt to the crack or from the last piece to the chains? We wanted to add a reasonable moderate that would get climbed.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: As of 2/24/10 the belay at the top of pitch 1 is only 1 smashed up bolt and hanger. Rockfall removed one bolt and wrecked the remaining one. The one that remains can be used but is sketchy. No way to back it up except a knifeblade or new bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Brown Banana (5.9)
By: cdec When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: FA climbed just to the right of the bolt line up better quality rock. The bolts were placed to the left in hopes of keeping folks from straying too far to the right on to easier ground. Clips are from good stances and shouldn't be reachy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Brian thanks for the photo and the comments. James and Michael thanks for the work. I'm sticking to what I said but do agree that the anchors are indeed safer and will help to open this route to a wider group. I'm no hardman and next go around I will indeed use them.

Enough about this, let's open up some of those other lines!!!





Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 21, 2009

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Comments: People aren't on this thing for the same reasons it is good. It's long, the route/pitch description is vague and some of the anchors were traditional. You probably needed to have a slightly bigger skillset than simply swing and clip. We're paving the road though and I know that I'm helping. By posting, TRs and drilling anchors now it's a "safe and without anxiety affair".

Let me say this it's early and I haven't done anything fun so I'm a bit fired up but it seems like James came at this with d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : BBQ Brush (5.9)
By: cdec When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: Both this and ker-THUD need some traffic to clean up as did Bloody Elbows. This section of the wall has alot of lichen.
Neither are destine to become classics but both face North, are enjoyable and can be done with one rope. At 5.9 the Bloodys see alot of action. We think/hope these routes will round out a 1/2 day of moderate climbing at the Dihedrals.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall
By: cdec When: May 29, 2008

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Comments: So the Candy Cane tree is down. Don't bother looking for it. We overshot the turn and ran down being chased by lightning. Going back this weekend to climb and get good approach beta.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: cdec When: May 17, 2008

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Comments: Certainly easy and well protected. A wonderful beginner lead on quailty rock. My 5 yr. old daughter Emma brownsited it. She said "the most fun thing I've ever done."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: cdec When: Feb 15, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the entry is right. We got on this on 2/11/08 and it's super fun. Thinner than the picture that Brian posted but great climbing. I'd love to see it in that condition.
As far as anchors go I feel that with most routes sporting big shiny bolted stations that this one could be left as is. IMO it made for a much more interesting day of climbing not just gunning from anchor to anchor. The vague description of pitches, screw anchors and a little simul-climbing all combine for a full value... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: cdec When: Oct 30, 2007

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Comments: This is a fantastic route. Thanks to the FA's for the work it took to put this thing together for the rest of us to enjoy!!!

For it's grade as good as any of the Red Rocks classics. The 5.10 version of crimson, levitation or dark shadows. We climbed it on 10/28 and after much piecing together of beta here's my 2 cents.

Approach/Descent-Check out ericandlucie.com there's a great overview picture and description of the approach. I would do this approach rather than the one to Levitation any ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: cdec When: Sep 28, 2007

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Comments: We climbed this today and the 8th bolt is there, can't see it from 7 but it's there. 7 to 9 would indeed be run out.


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