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Member Since: Jan 3, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact cdec


Point Rank: # 2,593
Total Points: 195
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 1
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has cdec been climbing?










Contributions


All 406 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 21 | Page Improvments | Comments 40 | Posts 284 | Stars 45 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mad Calf Disease (5.11b/c)
By: cdec When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Climbed this the way John described and it is fantastic.
We belayed at the top of Firefly. Second pitch as described traversing to the right until you are under the 2 bolt slab finishing at the anchor directly under the roof and crux pitch above.
Place a bd .4 just above the roof and then it's on to some of the best climbing in BCC. Neither the crack on the left or the arÍte on the right need be used. Thin, bouldery and positive the face is a puzzle to be solved. Once you get to the ledge the ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Creekside Crag : Chutes and Ladders (5.11a R)
By: cdec When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Garret c climbed the retro bolted Raisin Bran not Chutes and Ladders.
Chutes and Ladders has, so far, been spared a retro job.
There is a 3rd route, which is not listed, to the right of Raisin Bran. 5.7ish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Voodoo Goat (5.9+)
By: cdec When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Another route that deserves traffic. Really interesting climbing low down through a scoop with a crack in the back.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Hell Holes (5.8+)
By: cdec When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: The route has cleaned up nicely and is really good. Long and sustained at the grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall : The Wedge (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: Super short. Maybe 18'


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Battalion of Saints Wall
By: cdec When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Put a watch on it. 6 minutes car to base. One of us was in flip flops.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Wisky Bench (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this in 2012 and again on 6/18/13 and thought it had clean up very nicely. Didn't find anything troubling at all. We were remarking how good we thought it was and was surprised to see the comments when I logged in to give it some stars.
Soft at 10a but long and good. Do it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos : Red Devil (5.8-)
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Mr. Garrett once said "more cleaning = more stars" we cleaned and gave it more. Fun for what it is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos : Detoured (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: We called this detoured for two reasons. First, we cleaned it 2 summers ago but never got back to bolt it. Second, the original line had two key holds snapped off so we changed the line a bit bottom to top to keep the climbing consistent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: There are now 4 bolted routes on this wall only a stones throw from the parking lot directly across from the, Green, Hellgate Condos.

The Rock is a very good mix of quartzite and Limestone. In addition to bolting the 2 new routes Greg and Luke's routes have been cleaned up and all 4 are very fun.

The routes from left to right are actually Driver's Ed, Red Devil, Road Rage and Detoured.


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: cdec When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: For those looking for a place to stay try the Big Bear Motel.
In Cody 1/4 from the turn off for the South Fork road.
1/13 we paid $47 a night for a 2 queen room. Clean and comfortable with table, fridge, micro and plenty of space to dry out gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Raspberry Ripple (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, it should get done more often. The guide says the bolts are weirdly placed. Not so much weirdly as just a bit on the reachy side. I am 5' 9 and I couldn't really clip off the obvious good holds. Just made it a bit heady. If your 6' no problem.
Thin climbing after the last bolt leads to jugs, good gear and the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Didn't Giggle either. Just didn't really like it.
Pitch 1 was short, easy and uninteresting.
Pitch 2 was dirty loose and and finishes in a tree.
The hand crack is cool but too short, about 15 feet of climbing.
As far as the rest goes picking a crack and going that is a bit misleading. They are all flaring, full of veg and hiding loose rock. You need to pick the best of the worst that might offer some pro at a place that you can barely see from where you are standing.

Go to Bells or Lone Peak Ci... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (5.10b)
By: cdec When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: For the grade and style one of the best in the Canyon. Has cleaned up really well. Nothing left but solid rock and good times.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : The Journey Home (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Check out the Beta Photo of the wall on the main page. Helpful in figuring out which route is which. All the routes except The Fools Progress have shiny bolts.

Started on Katchina which works well. Great rock climbing, go do it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Photo
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: YEAH STEVIE!!! Way to go.
Started off on Katchina and linked into The Journey Home. Having only the description for Journey with us we saw bolts up hill and hiked right by Journey, orange tape on the first bolt and all.
We started up Katchina by accident, a great way to start though. Kept thinking it felt hard for 5.8. Joined up with Journey right off the anchor!
Super fun climbing on great rock all the way to the top. You guys did a great job cleaning. Can't wait to climb the fools progress a... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: cdec When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: I was wondering if we really want to be clearing swaths of moss from cliffs that are so clearly visible.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: cdec When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: For that matter lowering off a 70m is a possibility. My brand new petzl 9.4 70's ends didn't touch the ground. With a climber tied in for a lower and the belayer back a few feet the end will easily go through. I had read the description and made a point to put a blocking knot at the very end of the belay side. It came tight to the Gri Gri before I was standing.

Needs a power wash.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Upper Reef : She Sells Sea Shells (5.10-)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Not on Rocket Reef. Much farther up the Canyon.
See photo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Riding the Rocket (5.8 PG13)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Shares final bolts with Pocket Rocket.
Rap same as Pocket Rocket.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Pocket Rocket (5.8 PG13)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Route has cleaned up well and is very good stone now.
Of the two routes on the right side of the Rocket Reef this is the one on the left. It DOES NOT have glue ins. That is Riding the Rocket.

You DO NOT NEED A 70 to Rap. You DO NOT need to make two raps. Just rap from the anchor to the ground climbers right of the formation (maybe 60')and walk back to packs on good trail.

Run out up high can be avoided by clipping, with a LONG runner, a bolt to climbers right.




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Rocket Science (5.8)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Route starts 5.8ish and then moves left past bolts 2 and 3 on pure friction which seemed much harder than 5.8 on both on lead and TR. The climbing at and past 4th bolt is 5.8 again.

If you skip the 2nd bolt and continue straight to 3rd the route is R but consistent at the 5.8 grade.

Seemed silly to take it out left.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Upper Reef : Mocha Salsa (5.10-)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Don't know what or where Mocha Salsa is.
This is most likely a duplicate description of Rocket Science.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: The difficulty of the approach is overstated. 20 to 25 minutes on a good trail to the Reef. Another 3-5 minutes to the Rocket Reef.
You can rap Pocket Rocket and Riding the Rocket with a 60. Rap climbers right to the dirt on the side of the formation and walk down 70 feet on a good trail to packs. Not a great top rope.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Feline Stall Tactics (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: I was excited to get on this route after seeing the comparison to the Zion Curtain. About the only thing similar is that both pitches are rock. Comparing the two pitches is a crime. One is beautiful, long, exposed and clean. The other is this.

Saying that this thing wouldn't remain the same at the gate is being as delicate as one should be climbing the "flakes". Easy enough but frightful. At some point something big is coming down.

Feline stall tactics:
Easy corner to a single hand jam. Cont... more >>


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