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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Kansas City (5.12) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe the gunkies didn't roast you for pinkpointing!
Oh wait...
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect Elbows? Sounds pretty slammer. You propose 5.8 then?
This climb can also be led just using the corner, without going into the perfect elbows crack on the left.
To begin the extension, or second pitch, there are two ways. From the anchor you can creep out right onto the face, over, up and back left a tad to the first lead bolt. A little spicy and poor rock quality.
A better choice is to just cruise up the crummy gully to the left then step right out onto the face next to the bolt. ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the spirit!
Fight grade creep!
5.8+.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : BBC from Cleveland (5.10+)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: heh. We couldn't remember the name several times when we were hanging out, it was alternatively referred to as the Cleveland Steamer and BBQed Cleveland.
Pretty sandy when we did it, had to trundle the flagstone just before the anchor, that thing was waiting to kill someone.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sudden Impact (5.11)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: new version of the guidebook says 180', which I think is more accurate. Wasn't much left of a 60m on the ground.
Used yellow alien/tcus (2) to protect the start, but backcleaning is a good idea for drag purposes.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Tombstone Terror (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchor that you traverse to out right is actually the Boothill anchor. The 'trad' way to do tombstone is to belay at the break, and then top out the second (and seldom done) pitch. But people use the boothill anchor for cragging convenience.
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Glenwood Springs Rec Center : The Sucker Crack 5.12d (5.12d)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mega, mega classic!
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Glenwood Springs Rec Center
By: caughtinside When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm travelling cross country this winter to project that 4 star .12d fake crack.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fear No Evil (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts replaced by Mucci September 2009:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=96584>>>>>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got an eyeful of sand on this one, ouch. Not a classic, but different and challenging, and stays cool in there. The unnamed to the left is longer and better.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Hemorroids in Flight (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was flipping through a Climbing mag from spring of 84 and this route was reported there as the Dragrace. Someone mixed up the name, but whether it was Secor or Climbing, I don't know.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was going to say that looks a lot like Surfer Bob. He's got a lot of the valley classic cracks wired and runs them out.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : Hoodwink (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st two pitches link easily with 70m rope, and maybe even with a 60.
3rd pitch moves well right out the arch so sling looong and protect sparingly or suffer heinous rope drag. I had to do the move, lower down and unclip the two pins and redo the move, and the ropedrag for bringing up the second was still terrible much of the pitch.
Fun roof pull!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : The Gamoke (5.10b)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route gets done all the time but does pick up some grunge. 1 star though? This thing is almost as good as hospital in my opinion.
And I got to ask... 3 pitches? Is that a joke?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief - Center Wall : Bird of Prey (5.10d)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blunt arete that has you moving up and left on small crystally holds with bad feet, a little lungy between holds. A friend told me it was great, I got on it and found otherwise.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Hungover Hangover (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: D'oh! You are correct. I tried to do this from memory, thank you for the correction, it is not Overhanging Hangover, but Hungover Hangover. Entry corrected.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Goldilocks Wall : Papa Bear (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really nice route, congrats to urs on the onsight! I dogged it on TR but enjoyed it. I feel that the shortness of the climb and the short crux don't warrant 4 stars, but definitely a good line with good climbing.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, very long, should keep you going for a while! I know it's the Sierra, but this one just had too much loose rock for me to give it 4 stars. Having done Venusian with the same partner the previous summer, we both agreed that Venusian is a much more solid route. Much more tick tacking around the loose crap on Sun Ribbon.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Honeycomb Wall : Dogfight (5.11-)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice route, one of the longer ones at Big Chief.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Boot Hill (5.11)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boothill is the graveyard in Tombstone AZ, named such because Tombstone was a town 'where men died with their boots on.'
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Dear John Buttress : God of Thunder (.10c Variat... (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great crack, the upper flared fingers are pumpy. The 5.11 crack just to the right (another God of Thunder variation) is absolutely stellar!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: hmm, just did it again the other day. because of the sloping ground at the start, you can lean in from uphill and slot the cam if you wish. It was around chest height for me from up there.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : The Dead Pool (5.11c)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a fun day, do the Dirty Harry link up:
Dirty Harry, 5.9 on the Shady Lady
Magnum Force, 5.10b below main ledge
The Dead Pool, 5.11c on Tombstone Ledge
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Bliss (5.10d)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Aaron,
I didn't propose a danger rating like pg13 because I can't say for certain it is warranted because I toproped.
As I climbed, I looked around for gear, because I'd like to go back and lead. I found what I thought to be adequate gear throughout the route, but again, I was on toprope, so it's always different. A leader might have the typical thin route problem of gear blocking critical jams.
Further, no guidebooks have called this pg13 or R, so I felt there was precedent there.
In ... more >>
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