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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: Carl A When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nobody commented on the beginning runout. A 5.9 move at 15+ feet off the deck could break your ankles, but is a lot of fun for sure. Did i miss some gear before the hand traverse? All and all a stellar route and mind blowing as my first clean gunks 5.10!
I too went too far right on the last roof and ended up pumped, brushing dried grass off crimps until I went down and got back left.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Roseland (5.9)
By: Carl A When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, smooth feet but totally stem-able, I wouldn't want to do it in the sun. I wouldn't call it sustained but the traverse is a pumpy. There were two fixed pitons when I did it and the rope drag became horrible, maybe I should have used a long draw on the 2nd piton?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Carl A When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done a lot of offwidths out west, and although I'm not one of those guys that's into that kind of stuff, I'm pretty comfortable on them.
This offwidth was doable but tricky, especially for the grade, i was more using the face holds than any chicken wings and I couldn't really get all the way into it because the edges are offset.
Anywho I strung together these two pitches for 190 feet of great "5.6". I ran out the middle and placed a high piece above the ledge and the rope drag wasn't bad... more >>
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Carl A When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first climb in NC, Zoo view, was a wonderful swift kick to the nuts. The roof was more intimidating than hard, and I found the traverse really tricky. If I had to do it over again, I would stay way way lower and go 10-15 feet around the corner before going up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b) : Photo
By: Carl A When: Dec 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great view of the buttress
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Carl A When: Dec 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do these 'land (frogland, birdland) have anything to do with all those 'land gunk's routes (disneyland, ect)?
Sure dont look like gunks routes...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+) : Photo
By: Carl A When: Dec 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot! loving the dof!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Watanobe Wall : Watanobe Wall (5.10a)
By: Carl A When: Mar 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: slippery at/below the crux, watch those feet!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Pocket Pool (5.11d)
By: Carl A When: Mar 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: easy to set a tr after climbing La Reina. This route is seriously hard with a couple stopper moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Fortress : New Hampshire, Naturally (5.10a/b)
By: Carl A When: Feb 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny to read the last comment after doing this climb. Enticed by the small bit of sun and the appearance of this splitter from across the valley. My partner headed up this climb only to rip off a fist size chunk of rock and take another big whip. The bottom is grainy with a bunch of apparently loose stuff. The crux I though was right off the ground, tensiony moves between the two cracks. 130' rap off two old but ok looking bolts with slings.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Other Voices (5.8)
By: Carl A When: Jan 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya I hopped on this looking for a 5.7 like the Vogel Guide said. I was definitely interested, held my attention, angered my lady. I went back on toprope and tried lying back the top part, still hard Jtree 5.8/5.9 anywhere else fo sho.
Thought the route was short, fun, pumpy.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Fisherman's Buttress Area : Fisherman's Buttress : Fisherman's Buttress - East... : Trout Fishing In America (5.11b)
By: Carl A When: Oct 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like all the edges on this route face the wrong way, makes it a bit tricky. The crux up top took me a couple tries, but was great when i figured it out.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Fisherman's Buttress Area : Fisherman's Buttress : Fisherman's Buttress - East... : Roadside Crack (5.10a)
By: Carl A When: Oct 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack has teeth! ouch! I also pulled off a piece of patina and tested out my gear! Watch out for loose pieces on all the climbs one this rock. Judging by the amount of lichen and moss, they don't get climbed too often.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Wong Climb (5.8)
By: Carl A When: Sep 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya man, It was one of my first ones so memory's a bit rosy, but as a single pitch I love this guy. The rest of the climb makes it classic at the grade for sure. Plus it's at Taquitz so it's all historic! BAM!
I just went back and climbed it again, It's still just as good.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Carl A When: Jul 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is amazing, I thought I was going to die. I made some noises I've never made before, I lost all the skin off my ankles and wore through my favorite pair of socks. And I got up it. whoo hoo?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Y Crack Buttress : The Y Crack (5.10b)
By: Carl A When: Jun 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Y crack this weekend and though it was burly. It was baking in the afternoon June sun and I was greasing all over this thing. The Left start has great steep straight in jamming and the upper part is tough! It overhangs maybe 10 feet, super steep!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Photo
By: Carl A When: May 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw some rap slings north of the north descent gully last weekend, the guy at nomads told me there might be some info in the new tahquitz guide. Too bad falcon won't publish it!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Photo
By: Carl A When: May 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There must be a ton of routes up to the west of Tahquitz proper....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Photo
By: Carl A When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: what's the route?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Direct South Face (5.9)
By: Carl A When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice long moderate for j tree but is a one (5.9) move wonder.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: Carl A When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That chimney was a hoot. Bring your offwidth technique to this party.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Metro Sector : Rendezvous (5.11b)
By: Carl A When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch out for the sandy holds below the 3rd bolt and the loose blocks above in the corner, better yet, go climb one of the way better routes nearby
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.9)
By: Carl A When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hardest move is clipping the anchors!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Moonshine Dihedral (5.9)
By: Carl A When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pro was good, but so was the pump up top! It's no gimme.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Isles Corridor - Left Side : Crack 4 (5.10c R)
By: Carl A When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route could use a bolt, there are a tough couple of moves before the crack. But I dont know if it would be worth it.
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