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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Church Rock : Regular Route (5.9)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Manufactured holds"?
Wow!
We used all natural edges and cracks on the FA. Interesting.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Underlook : Simon Bar Sinister (5.11b)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Mike Schillaci, 1990 or so...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't Kevin Chase do the Fa of this tower?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill Grasse Tower?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led Roadside in 1989, so I got you beat by a few years. Camster.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-) : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic. But we were into five-piece Rawls at that point, which are a pain in the ass to place. Wonder what wanker shucked these in....
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Putterman Cracks (5.9)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gotta admit, I'm not sure I did the FA of this route (I would bet $100 those old guys---my pal Norbert included) probably climbed it years before. And I never named it except maybe as a joke in that 1991 piece in R&I on White Rock. I certainly never submitted it to MP. Anyway, the long look from being old is kinda fun....
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pretty interesting. I remember top-roping this a few times then leading it on natural gear (in the late 1980s, if memory serves). Now it's been bolted? Egad! Oh well. Whatever. I thought it was a fun route. Named for the late Forest Fukushima, a truly gifted climber from Los Alamos, who was hit while riding his bike and died. I remember being in Boulder in, I think, fall 1984, when I heard Forest had passed. His father, Eiichi, was on the first ascent of Vinson in Antarctica in 1966 (I t... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Testes : The Right Nut (5.10a)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, best comment ever on Mtn Project! Cam
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Pickle : Standard Route (5.7 C1)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We first climbed The Pickle as a joke. In 1987, we were sitting in the trailer that Eric Bjornstad and [rockshop owner] Lin Ottinger shared, and Lin said, "You should climb that thing that looks like a big dick out near Arches." So we did. "Hey, Lin, we did the big dick." "Good," he said. Later, he told us about Chimney Rock----the one in Canyonlands, as it hadn't quite or had just recently been climbed (by Kyle C.). Before the first ascent, Lin, guiding a tour, flew over Chimney Rock and threw ... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Balanced Rock (5.9 A1-)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, I know. I suspect that it likely was (off limits) back then and that ranger I asked didn't know either way. I suspect she would never have dreamed we'd go back up the road and climb it. Oh well, hindsight is 20-20, right?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ray Northcutt in a 2009 interview:
"Beautiful wall, beautiful setting."
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Lone Star : Creatures from the Black Sa... (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pic!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mountain of the Sun : Eye Shadow (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry it was such a bad time, Vic.
"There were some remnants of past epics (a stuck rope, a fixed line, etc) when we climbed."
That's interesting. Best, Cam
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : CB's Love Muscle
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We originally called this EB's Love Muscle after the desert author.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : L Dopa (5.9)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: May 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I named this route after the song:
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Cryogenics (5.10a)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5/5/2011
Glen Denny is at my place (Basalt) visiting right now and I just showed him this page on Cryogenic(s). He says he and Bill Forrest climbed it in 1966 while they were getting ready to do an ascent of the Yellow Wall. They hadn't ever climbed with each other, so they wanted to get a feel for each other's style. So they drove up the pass and did this route. Cam Burns
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Location: CO : 2010 Colorado College Alpin...
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen, I disagree slightly. "The best" is a pretty tall order. I'd certainly argue some of the most entertaining.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Ghost Ranch : Ghost Tower : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Jan 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pic, Jason. I named that thing the Camel Toe...for obvious reasons...Cam
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c) : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Jan 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The crux of P2 (and the climb IMO). You can step off the ledge into this move and it is well protected by a bolt."
We didn't place a bolt there on the first ascent. I wonder who did. Cam
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Dec 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comment edited March 25, 2011:
This is the thing that Dan Langmade, Stan Mish, and I did the first ascent of in about...umm..1999? Bill Hatcher and LB went off to do something else. I was working on an article about the Banditos at the time. Stan led it and placed, I think, two bolts on the way up.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Right Side of Grotto Entran... : ... : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Nov 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: uh, that's so rad it's rad....doh!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Testes : Left Nut (5.9)
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ha ha! someone actually repeated this? people are crazy.....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Mt. Everest
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Total pile?
Ha ha ha!
Abbbbbbbbbsooooooluuuuuuuutely!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Photo
By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) When: Apr 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why?
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