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Cameron in Yosemite, Monday Morning Slab 5.4


Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: Nov 28, 2011
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Point Rank: # 3,689
Total Points: 121
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23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 67 | Routes | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 32 | Stars 4 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Second Coming (5.7)
By: cammyjams When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: This was the first technical rock climb I ever did, back in 1992 with Mike McCormick of Looking Glass Outfitters. What a treat it is to come back now and read about it. Seems like only yesterday. I remember asking Mike on that first day "How can I do what you do?" (meaning lead trad) he looked at me for a moment and said "you've got a long apprenticeship ahead of you".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: cammyjams When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: As of 6/6/11 the anchors at the top of pitch two have been removed and filled. I found this odd as the rap chains 50' up around to the right were not maintained and still have scary cold shuts on one side. Why go to all of the work removing/filling bolts and leave manky rap rigs up there? Anyway, belaying safely at the top of pitch two now means building a SERENE Trad anchor under a huge block at the top of the climb. You will need every inch of a 60m rope to accomplish this, and a couple of lar... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Chips and Salsa (5.3)
By: cammyjams When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: This is the place to take beginners.
I added some chains to the top of the second pitch. This is a great beginners area because you can lead 5.3 to get to the P1 bolts which then can TR some harder stuff underneath.
Or you can do the second pitch (5.3, or 5.7 if you trend right; a great line to give newbies some air) Then rap the Aruba Wall gully with a single 60m rope and downclimb an easy chimney or stay climbers left below the pine tree and simply walk down the slab, more air for n... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : From Soup to Nuts (5.7)
By: cammyjams When: Dec 16, 2007

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Comments: We found a fun variation to the left of the crack on the black varnished face after the initial start. Thin crimpers and delicate foot work needed. Guessing 5.8 avoiding the middle crack altogether. Watch that loose block up there.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7)
By: cammyjams When: Nov 27, 2007

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Comments: Thanks Larry, I realize this probably should have been posted in the forums. I'm gonna go back up there soon and nail that slab. It just seemed like the 'right' way to go off of the belay at the time. Live and learn. 5.9, not 5.6, LOL.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7)
By: cammyjams When: Nov 23, 2007

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Comments: I have a question about the slab on the start of P3. That sure didn't feel like 5.6 (to my fat ass anyway) I went about half way and fell on my pro, then traversed out to the right and went up that way on much easier terrain. Clipped the bolt from above/right. Can anyone comment on these moves? Are they really .6 or more like .9 (in the dihederal on the left of the slab)? Man I love friction but that freaked me out for some reason.