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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9 PG13)
By: camhead When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: one more vote for not PG-13. If there was a bolt at every bomber nut placement, it would be a completely safe sport climb.
Quality all the way, though.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: camhead When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just got on this route again, about five years after first climbing it, and it is every bit as wonderful as it was the first time around. Definitely the best crack climb I've done at the City. Very diverse route frmo the boulder problem into an Indian Creek-styled featureless crack with changing corners. Runs the full range of sizes, with the exception of off-fingers. As the above comments mention, I think the opening moves may be a bit harder than 11c, but as soon as the crack widens beyo... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Bombs Over Tripoli (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route; the crack is incredibly insecure, with only a few good fingerlocks. The final traverse beneath the anchors definitely keeps it sustained as well. Difficult second clip.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 13 bolts, as I remember. A 70m gets you back to the ground, or if you really want to be oldschool, you can belay up a second and walkoff to the left. Great climb. FA Jim Sherner, I believe.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Vector Rock : Vector (5.11c)
By: camhead When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have not gotten on this route, but it is definitely off the beaten path. We hiked out to it (guided by the old fellow in the photo here), and after a LOT of missed turns, boulder hopping, and bushwhacking, we got to Vector. It looked amazing, but unfortunately it was almost dark by that time. I really hope to get back to it.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : Stone Wave (5.11a/b)
By: camhead When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is soft compared to Fly with the Falcon, but that is not saying much.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Cochise Stronghold Campgrou... : Dominatrix Crack (5.11d)
By: camhead When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks for the info on this, everybody. I got on it randomly a few years ago, and the only beta I had was the name and grade of the climb on a printed out bouldering guide. I'm surprised that it wasn't in this database already.
Speaking of the Skinner comment, I do remember one of the memorials for him in one of the mags mentioned him getting the FA of "Dominatrix Without Mercy" at Cochise, which they listed as 12c! Is this the same route?
And, it might be seventeen feet high, but given tha... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : The Sinister (5.12c PG13)
By: camhead When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never heard this route called 11d. It has a very hard start (v5/6-ish), with precarious feet and sidepulls. After the crux, it eases quite a bit, but the bolts are quite far apart. Blowing any clip after the crux would be a bad thing.
I'm not sure about the FA, but I do know that Dean Potter soloed it years ago, and that the mags made a pretty big deal about it.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent climb, it is just sad that it stays so damp so much. By NRG standards this route is G rated, with very ample protection. It just depends on how much gas you are willing to burn by stopping to place gear.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Karin's Corner (5.11-)
By: camhead When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was actually the site of the longest whip I've taken at the Creek. It was the end of the day, we had done all the .11s, as well as a couple runs on Sacred Cow, but there was still some daylight left. I decided to cool-down on Karin's Corner, since it was "only" a 5.10(+) in the guidebook.
Anyway, I immediately realized that it was going to be harder than expected. At the sustained, blank, ringlocking section about 3/4 the way up the route, I decided to run it out a little to save ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyne Crack Simulator (5.11-)
By: camhead When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good short route, but a terrible name. I don't know how many people I have heard say "I have done Coyne Crack Simulator, am I ready for Coyne Crack?" In my opinion, Scarface is a much better Coyne Crack Simulator than this one.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins II (5.12-)
By: camhead When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indian Creek has long been well-known for having quite a few "easy" 5.12-'s. Way Rambo, Nine Lives, Coyne Crack, Sig Sauer, Dos Hermanos, Annunaki, Middle Crack, Gurka, and so on. If you are looking for one of these easier routes to get that 5.12- crack on your ticklist, THEN STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM THIS ROUTE!
Excellent route, though, all the same.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)
By: camhead When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with the route description calling the opening moves a "hand crack." There is maybe one hand jam just off the ground, and that is it. The middle section took great 1 and 2 camalots, and at the middle rest stance you can sew up the seam with microstoppers. One of the best single pitch trad climbs I've done.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Sentry Box (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Aug 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. For the crux, you either need to have small fingers or be tall. I only toproped the direct start, but it is very cool. Pro on it is mostly incipient blue and yellow TCU's, with one fixed piton for the crux.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : ... : Photo
By: camhead When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: werst photo evar.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Dihedrals : Dead Man Walking (5.9)
By: camhead When: Apr 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this crack would be a "G" rated gear lead; and like nearly every other route at the dihredrals, it has seen gear ascents. However, it was bolted on the assumption that almost nobody brings gear to Potrero, and it is still a wonderful line. no gear needed.
Also, as I remember, not even a 70m will get you back to the ground, although it is possible to downclimb the initial slab for 20 feet after untying.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a) : Photo
By: camhead When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: damn, I miss that hat. it's somewhere on the floor of the Colorado River below Big Drop II... sigh.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Steve Carruthers Memorial (... (5.11)
By: camhead When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know the details behind Steve Caruthers? I know that he did quite a few hard FA's in the desert, and I assume that he is now deceased, but what else?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Gurka (5.12-)
By: camhead When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since it is in a corner, and has some face holds around the second roof, this is one of the better climbs to really work on the difficult "baggy fingers" size; .5 camalots for normal fingered males.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Go Sparky Go (5.11+)
By: camhead When: Jan 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Optimator (5.13-)
By: camhead When: Dec 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose."
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: camhead When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: also, re: Ocean Negro, you can get off of it with one 70m rope. It is a bit interesting rapping from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2; you need some directionals since it is so steep. You can get from the top of pitch two to the ground with one 70m rope, barely. Or you could just do a huge double rope rappel with two 60's or 70's to the ground from the very top.
awesome line.
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne and Surroundin... : Valley of The Blind : Pain and Suffering (5.12+)
By: camhead When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually heard that this route got down-graded to 5.4, given that the FFA-ist was really overweight at the time he climbed it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Second Choice (5.11)
By: camhead When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: sorry, dude. I actually have not done it yet, but it does look really good.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack (5.11)
By: camhead When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must also say that this is another climb in which the almighty authority David Bloom messes up gear beta in his guidebook. In this case, he omits the necessity of a .5 friend (blue TCU, .3 camalot), which is really nice to have about thirty feet up, just above the first horizontal break. Hell, you may even want a purple TCU if you really want to sew it up.
cheers
Paul Nelson
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