Comments: Apologies, I logged out while adding this route, and am unable to finish the route description, so here it is in comments:
This is the most obvious corner system, just to the left of the large cave that you encounter at the top of the approach trail/scramble. It starts in a corner with a perfect handcrack, before making a blocky traverse to the right, and into a beautiful clean obtuse corner. After jamming, laying back, and face climbing this corner, make a few moves right and over some easy ... more >>
Comments: This is a strange description for this area; just dwelling on the heat and winter-ness of this crag. For what it's worth, I climb here not infrequently in the summer; as Jeremy says above, the area around Burning Calves is in complete shad ein the morning, and gets ample tree shade even after that. Around the corner, the Steve Martin's Face/Chorus Line area gets afternoon shade. Will to Power and Sportster do get sun pretty much all day, though.
Comments: It's amazing that this route does not get more attention, seeing as how it's one of the most prominent aretes at the NRG and has a 1 minute approach. Anyway, it's got new glue-ins now, and its afternoon shade makes it a nice late-spring option. Do it!
Comments: I agree that this climb is simply "whelming." Not overwhelming, not underwhelming. As sanz says, I think that the reason a lot of people don't like it is because it is right next to the best 11a at the NRG. It's kind of like Thora Birch in the movie "Ghost World," she's totally good-looking, but next to Scarlett Johansen she just seems like the ugly one. Still, fun climb, especially since bolted 5.11-s are not super common at Endless, and the final roof pull is super photogenic.
Comments: I second the suggestion about checking this route out when lowering from NWO. The undercling section has one of the coolest, but reachiest sequences I've ever done; it goes from full extension to mega-scrunched in two moves. I actually thought that the three moves getting to the undercling were the crux for me. Super great route.
Comments: Yeah, so I'm stupid. I thought that this route went straight up the face after the crack peters out. There's even a cool hueco up there that you can gun for. But it turns out that wasn't the way to go. One 30 footer later, I saw the obvious line doing a HARD traverse to the left. Rad line.
Comments: So, since not enough Ohioans in basketball shorts were taking their hangdog skills from Orange Oswald and throwing themselves at this route to impress their college outdoor club freshman girlfriends, we decided to make it easier for them and put some steel climbtech permadraws on this route. Yaaaaay! Even LESS commitment! Don't forget to thread your gri gris the right way!
Comments: Really fun climb; I can't believe I'd not done it before today. I will say that I was sketched at the flake from which you clip the high first bolt. The best part of it, on the right, is cracked and hollow. Having it break while you're clipping would really ruin your day. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 camalot (not .5 as mentioned above) about three feet below the flake.
Comments: This route is historic (I think it was the NRG's first 5.11?), but it's really not THAT good compared to other routes of the grade within one minute of it, let alone within a half hour of it. Short crux, no pure jamming required, and ends on the most popular 5.6 in the gorge.
Comments: Great pitch of hard, gear protected face-climbing, and other than getting to the first horizontal (maybe one 10+/11- move), it is fairly safe. I do take issue with the Honourable Mr. Whisenhunt, Esq, that the moves after the bolt are "only 5.8." There is one final pop/throw with bad feet that could definitely be a heartbreaker on redpoint.
Comments: This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature.
Comments: I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.
In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If y... more >>