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You stay away from mah pig!


Member Since: Jun 27, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 453
Total Points: 1,245
Last Year: 284
Last 30 Days: 71
16 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (1534) | Routes (78) | Areas (15) | Photos (24) | Comments (120) | Posts (1135) | Stars (145) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Discombobulated (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: I agree that this climb is simply "whelming." Not overwhelming, not underwhelming. As sanz says, I think that the reason a lot of people don't like it is because it is right next to the best 11a at the NRG. It's kind of like Thora Birch in the movie "Ghost World," she's totally good-looking, but next to Scarlett Johansen she just seems like the ugly one. Still, fun climb, especially since bolted 5.11-s are not super common at Endless, and the final roof pull is super photogenic.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Dissonance (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: I second the suggestion about checking this route out when lowering from NWO. The undercling section has one of the coolest, but reachiest sequences I've ever done; it goes from full extension to mega-scrunched in two moves. I actually thought that the three moves getting to the undercling were the crux for me. Super great route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Ritz Cracker Area : Surge Complex (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, so I'm stupid. I thought that this route went straight up the face after the crack peters out. There's even a cool hueco up there that you can gun for. But it turns out that wasn't the way to go. One 30 footer later, I saw the obvious line doing a HARD traverse to the left. Rad line.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Narcissus Cave : Narcissus (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: So, since not enough Ohioans in basketball shorts were taking their hangdog skills from Orange Oswald and throwing themselves at this route to impress their college outdoor club freshman girlfriends, we decided to make it easier for them and put some steel climbtech permadraws on this route. Yaaaaay! Even LESS commitment! Don't forget to thread your gri gris the right way!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Reachers of Habit (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climb; I can't believe I'd not done it before today. I will say that I was sketched at the flake from which you clip the high first bolt. The best part of it, on the right, is cracked and hollow. Having it break while you're clipping would really ruin your day. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 camalot (not .5 as mentioned above) about three feet below the flake.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Jacob's Ladder Area : Churning In the Butter (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Three-star Endless Wall route, which translates to five starts anywhere else.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Englishman's Crack (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is historic (I think it was the NRG's first 5.11?), but it's really not THAT good compared to other routes of the grade within one minute of it, let alone within a half hour of it. Short crux, no pure jamming required, and ends on the most popular 5.6 in the gorge.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Yew Nosemite (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch of hard, gear protected face-climbing, and other than getting to the first horizontal (maybe one 10+/11- move), it is fairly safe. I do take issue with the Honourable Mr. Whisenhunt, Esq, that the moves after the bolt are "only 5.8." There is one final pop/throw with bad feet that could definitely be a heartbreaker on redpoint.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Long Point : Porter for Recorder (5.11+)
By: camhead When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: camhead When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Hey, while you guys are being safety nazis, maybe we need to point out that she's using a gri gri for trad! Static shockload from hell! They're all gonna die!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Made in The Shade (5.12d)
By: camhead When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If y... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Mango Tango (5.14a)
By: camhead When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Originally got 13d, but now this is one of the lesser repeated 14a's in the area.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Skylore Engine (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: No fixed draws anymore, at least not on the entire route. This thing would be a good candidate for permas; I may look into that.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Kaymoor Slabs : Pudd's Pretty Dress (5.12c/d)
By: camhead When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route. This and Slash&Burn are probably the area's "must do" 12+ face climbs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Mo' Betta' Holds (5.11c/d)
By: camhead When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: The route is still climbable, even with "less betta holds." Might be a bit harder and reachier, but not too much more.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Moon Wall : Off My Rocker (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Purple or blue tcu is great between bolts 2 and 3. The crux on this route is one of the coolest sequences I've done anywhere.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Cat Food (5.11d)
By: camhead When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: I didn't find the lip turn or above to be grovelly at all: just a few really fun moves up a finger crack. Great route; do the whole thing!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Instant Gratification (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: So, two friends had gotten hosed by this, so I thought I'd mention- at the very too, above the detached pillar, there is another bolted route that cuts off left. Don't take this; go right.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Fairtracer (5.10d)
By: camhead When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Felt solid 11a to me; the crux at the top is harder than anything on Mellifluous or Linear Encounters. There are definitely spots for a red and gold camalot, then probably two of everything from 00 tcu to .5 camalot. Oh, and this route is amazing.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : New Fangled Dangle (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: I thought the opening inversion was pretty damn hard for 11a, but I'm not a super good wide climber. The rest of the climb is amazing; bring more green camalots than you think you need.

Also (beta spoiler), I had no problem starting while wearing my rack, and inverted off of a hand stack, not a single fist jam.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : Chorus Line (5.12b/c)
By: camhead When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Full value 5.12, I definitely agree with the b/c rating on here. If you stick clip, the only gear you need would be maybe a yellow tcu between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Opportunity for big falls, but totally safe. The direct start adds a really fun, hard reach move.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : Jesus and Tequila (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: So, I guess that this comment is as good for Jesus and Tequila as anywhere else; in the guidebook, it mentions a good 11d that starts on Sacrilege to the left, and then takes a hand traverse into the upper third dihedral of Jesus and Tequila. I did this the other day; you start traversing right when you are below the fixed pin on Sacrilege, and it's a really good route! Probably around 11d.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : JunkYard Dog (JYD) (5.11c PG13)
By: camhead When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Not pg13. Or 11c. I just finished on the New River Gunks anchors. Fun, but super short.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Coliseum : Tobacco Road (5.12b/c)
By: camhead When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Whoa, so much grade inflation on this page. Neither Pod nor Mercy Seat are anywhere near 13b/c, and Tobacco Road feels like standard 12a; way easier than narcissus, in my opinion.

Also, there are now new climbtech permadraws on the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Cyborg (5.12c/d)
By: camhead When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Petro route, I believe.


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