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You stay away from mah pig!


Member Since: Jun 27, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 443
Total Points: 1,359
Last Year: 391
Last 30 Days: 22
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has camhead been climbing?










Contributions


All 1597 | Routes 87 | Areas 16 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 1169 | Stars 155 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : The Rabbit Almost Died (5.12a)
By: camhead When: 4 days ago

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Comments: All three of this climb's rusty bolts are now replaced with stainless 1/2 inchers as of 9/26/2014. Thanks, NRAC!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Jacob's Ladder Area : Second Amendment (5.12b PG13)
By: camhead When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: More subjective notes: This route is pretty obvious, and when Joe and I first did Shotgun, we were both perplexed as to why Doug Reed did not take it all the way to the top of the cliff. I'm honestly not sure of the grade. The upper boulder problem took a bit of work to figure out and get dialed, but when I sent, it felt quite casual. No matter what, it is quite different from the much more techy crux of Shotgun.

Finally, a few days before I sent this, I took a couple big falls at the crux,... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Domino Point : Dominaire (5.7)
By: camhead When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Apologies, I logged out while adding this route, and am unable to finish the route description, so here it is in comments:

This is the most obvious corner system, just to the left of the large cave that you encounter at the top of the approach trail/scramble. It starts in a corner with a perfect handcrack, before making a blocky traverse to the right, and into a beautiful clean obtuse corner. After jamming, laying back, and face climbing this corner, make a few moves right and over some easy ... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
By: camhead When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: This is a strange description for this area; just dwelling on the heat and winter-ness of this crag. For what it's worth, I climb here not infrequently in the summer; as Jeremy says above, the area around Burning Calves is in complete shad ein the morning, and gets ample tree shade even after that. Around the corner, the Steve Martin's Face/Chorus Line area gets afternoon shade. Will to Power and Sportster do get sun pretty much all day, though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: camhead When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, not 9-, and not G, but really fun climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: camhead When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: One of the best 5.7s I've done anywhere. Although it did not look that great from the belay, the second pitch is also excellent, with true, legit 5.4 jugs over roofs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : The Shining (5.11a)
By: camhead When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: There is a fixed bolt anchor.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : Color Blind (5.13a R)
By: camhead When: May 9, 2014

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Comments:



Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Sunshine Crag : Unbroken Chain (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: It's amazing that this route does not get more attention, seeing as how it's one of the most prominent aretes at the NRG and has a 1 minute approach. Anyway, it's got new glue-ins now, and its afternoon shade makes it a nice late-spring option. Do it!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Discombobulated (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: I agree that this climb is simply "whelming." Not overwhelming, not underwhelming. As sanz says, I think that the reason a lot of people don't like it is because it is right next to the best 11a at the NRG. It's kind of like Thora Birch in the movie "Ghost World," she's totally good-looking, but next to Scarlett Johansen she just seems like the ugly one. Still, fun climb, especially since bolted 5.11-s are not super common at Endless, and the final roof pull is super photogenic.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Dissonance (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: I second the suggestion about checking this route out when lowering from NWO. The undercling section has one of the coolest, but reachiest sequences I've ever done; it goes from full extension to mega-scrunched in two moves. I actually thought that the three moves getting to the undercling were the crux for me. Super great route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Ritz Cracker Area : Surge Complex (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, so I'm stupid. I thought that this route went straight up the face after the crack peters out. There's even a cool hueco up there that you can gun for. But it turns out that wasn't the way to go. One 30 footer later, I saw the obvious line doing a HARD traverse to the left. Rad line.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Narcissus Cave : Narcissus (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: So, since not enough Ohioans in basketball shorts were taking their hangdog skills from Orange Oswald and throwing themselves at this route to impress their college outdoor club freshman girlfriends, we decided to make it easier for them and put some steel climbtech permadraws on this route. Yaaaaay! Even LESS commitment! Don't forget to thread your gri gris the right way!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Reachers of Habit (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climb; I can't believe I'd not done it before today. I will say that I was sketched at the flake from which you clip the high first bolt. The best part of it, on the right, is cracked and hollow. Having it break while you're clipping would really ruin your day. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 camalot (not .5 as mentioned above) about three feet below the flake.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Jacob's Ladder Area : Churning In the Butter (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Three-star Endless Wall route, which translates to five starts anywhere else.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Englishman's Crack (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is historic (I think it was the NRG's first 5.11?), but it's really not THAT good compared to other routes of the grade within one minute of it, let alone within a half hour of it. Short crux, no pure jamming required, and ends on the most popular 5.6 in the gorge.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Yew Nosemite (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch of hard, gear protected face-climbing, and other than getting to the first horizontal (maybe one 10+/11- move), it is fairly safe. I do take issue with the Honourable Mr. Whisenhunt, Esq, that the moves after the bolt are "only 5.8." There is one final pop/throw with bad feet that could definitely be a heartbreaker on redpoint.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Long Point : Porter for Recorder (5.11+)
By: camhead When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: camhead When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Hey, while you guys are being safety nazis, maybe we need to point out that she's using a gri gri for trad! Static shockload from hell! They're all gonna die!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Made in The Shade (5.12d)
By: camhead When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If y... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Mango Tango (5.14a)
By: camhead When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Originally got 13d, but now this is one of the lesser repeated 14a's in the area.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Skylore Engine (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: No fixed draws anymore, at least not on the entire route. This thing would be a good candidate for permas; I may look into that.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Kaymoor Slabs : Pudd's Pretty Dress (5.12c/d)
By: camhead When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route. This and Slash&Burn are probably the area's "must do" 12+ face climbs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Mo' Betta' Holds (5.11c/d)
By: camhead When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: The route is still climbable, even with "less betta holds." Might be a bit harder and reachier, but not too much more.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Moon Wall : Off My Rocker (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Purple or blue tcu is great between bolts 2 and 3. The crux on this route is one of the coolest sequences I've done anywhere.


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