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Member Since: May 30, 2007
Last Visit: May 28, 2013
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Point Rank: # 5,723
Total Points: 63
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 96 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 43 | Posts 30 | Stars 11 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Name (name it if you know it)

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (0)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Tiny Bubbles

Mar 17, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Traverse on the first pitch. This ended up being the second pitch for us because we started below the buttress.

Traverse on the first pitch. This ended up being the second pitch for us because we started below the buttress.

CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)

May 22, 2012

Second pitch topout.

Second pitch topout.

CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)

May 22, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: CalebSimpson When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Just climbed this the other day, and I would say that while it was a pretty good climb it's definitely over-hyped. We had ended up having to turn the first pitch into two, because we didn't realized there was a higher belay ledge.

The belay for what should have been the second pitch (our third) was a pretty crappy stance and uncomfortable. The second pitch takes big gear, which we really didn't have much of, we had one #4 BD cam, but it was in the belay anchor below, so it didn't help. So... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Come and Get Your Love (5.10a)
By: CalebSimpson When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: Finally made my way out to Lost Dome just for this climb. Found that a #1 BD cam worked best in the horizontal crack down low. Found the bolts a tad run out for how vertical the climb was.

Most of the climb went at 5.8, a few 5.9 moves and about two moves of 5.10a near the top, well protected. Took a good fall on it too, but after seeing the nice undercling high left managed to pull the moves!

Great route.. Take the time to TR the dihedral to the right of the climb too, lots of fun, tric... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: CalebSimpson When: Dec 29, 2009

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Comments: How can this possibly be grade II if it takes all day?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Christmas Tree (5.10b/c)
By: CalebSimpson When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Anybody saying they can reach the 7th bolt from the ledge is OVER 6 feet tall. I am exactly 6 feet tall and was a few inches short AND I have a positive ape index. I thought the sixth bolt was tough, friend had to finish the lead for me, but climbing it on TR I checked to see if I could clip it from the ledge - nope! Be ready to be a bit spooked unless you are really confident at that grade, it was at my limit.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Smart Server (5.10a)
By: CalebSimpson When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Call me crazy, but this may be one of my favorite routes at Shelf. Loved the finger crack moves about halfway up!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Last week on Thursday, August 6 I had to leave a rope rigged to a tree near the top of the gully to the left of Batman and Robin. If you find this rope, can you please contact me through the site? We were caught up there after dark and could not find out way down and had to use a full rope length to make it to the ground. I can pay you shipping to get it back to me.

I am also not sure if the rope is even good anymore as it got a lot of tree sap on it.

Anybody doing this route should be advised... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Meadows : Taco Time (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Decided to check this area out after being in The Narrows on a 103+ degree day. This is a very serious climb for the grade. First bolt was about 20 feet up on top of the column, it is out of sight from the ground. I think it may have been added latter, I totally missed it and clipped the higher bolt.

I was also hallucinating on the route from heat exhaustion. I seriously thought the fifth bolt was HUGE, it looked to be like a giant bolt, I had never seen anything like it (I thought it was some ... more >>


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks : Gilgamek Vagina (5.9)
By: CalebSimpson When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: This route is awkward fun! Loved it, I give it 5 stars! My first 5.9 trad lead too. It was the only dry route we could find on an extremely rainy day. If you are looking for a rainy day climb this is it. It stays dry in a torrential down pour.

I place small stuff up to a #5 BD cam. Probably could have done without the #5, I sewed it up pretty good, but #4's are definitely needed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: CalebSimpson When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: Is that an old pin your clipped into?


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : High Anxiety (5.7)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 26, 2009

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Comments: Yowza! This climb gave me a run for my money. Took my first big lead fall on this one. Placed a yellow TCU about 3/4 up the route and had clipped it but didn't quite like it, so jamed my hand in the crack bellow and began to move up to check it out, my jam blew and I want sailing down about 20ft. I SHOULD have not fallen that far though, but my belayer was a newbie and there was a lot of drag in the tope making it hard to determine how much slack there actually was. It gave me a good scare.

The... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Leaning Tower : Crucifix (5.4)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 26, 2009

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Comments: Worthless route, hardly takes any gear. It's more like a scramble up to the top. Could easily be free soloed. Climbed it to set up a top rope for a trad newbie to climb on TR and place gear. NOT a good route to learn that one.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Leaning Tower : Arrowsmith (5.8)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 26, 2009

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Comments: Where is the 5.8 move on this route? I have climbed 5.6 routes in the Wichita's that I had a harder time with than this. I felt it was just a really sustained 5.7. Great route though and the view from up top is amazing. From what I hear many variations exist for toping out on the second pitch. We went left up a polished face easily seen from the belay ledge. Rigging the belay here was tricky, but the anchor was solid. This is now one of my favorite climbs in the Wichita Mountains.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation : Shake Your Groove Thing (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 26, 2009

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Comments: I have mixed feelings about this route, it was a choss fest with great exposure and heinous rope drag. Crux moves are protected piss poorly. The rock is extremely hollow, I wouldn't trust it. I ended up making a new line and going further around the corner up a ramp. I had to dig out a crack to protect it. The moves there felt harder than 5.6 (but most Wichita 5.6's do). Although the rock was dirty, the route was exposed and the rope drag horrid, I think I like the route. Just make sure it's the... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Unfinished Piece (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Mar 19, 2009

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Comments: Looking at an old guide book the topo here does not show the correct route. You should traverse far left, not pull the roof like the topo shows. Old guide book also says 5.7, so by my guess if you pull the roof it may even go at 5.8. But who am I to say?


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams : The Hobbit (5.7)
By: CalebSimpson When: Jan 5, 2009

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Comments: Or just start on the boulder to the right, you can stem out over the "start hole" and put a .75 in the flake up high on the left and then fire on up.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Photo
By: CalebSimpson When: Jan 5, 2009

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Comments: I believe the bridge is back up.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Unfinished Piece (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: The rating on this route is BS, there is an airy, exposed move over a roof with only slick downward sloping slab for feet. It's awful at first, but once you pull the move it isn't to bad. But it's a huge head trip and no 5.6 climber could make those moves. I rated it 5.7+ because I think it could be closer to an 5.8.

Oh, and broke this up into two pitches. Set up a belay under the roof, thought I was running low on gear, but turns out I could have easily finished and still set an anchor up top


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Slap Roof (5.5)
By: CalebSimpson When: Dec 21, 2008

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Comments: Route is definitely 5.6 with a hard start. You will need a spot on this one.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Dihedral (5.6)
By: CalebSimpson When: Dec 20, 2008

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Comments: Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.

Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: CalebSimpson When: Dec 20, 2008

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Comments: This route is NOT 5.5. It is definitely 5.7, maybe even bordering some 5.8 moves. Somebody needs to update this rating. I went out and did the climb this weekend thinking it was going to be a 5.5, I was in fur quite a surprise, but did finish it without a fall or take, so I was still happy. The route IS fun though and worth doing.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: Oklahoma Select gives this a 5.7, why?


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Echo Dome : Frosted Flakes (5.9)
By: CalebSimpson When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: Great quality line!! Very straight forward too except for a couple spots. More bolts exist than what is listed in the guide books too. I think they state 6 bolts, I believe there were 8.


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