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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: C Tirrell When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent technical movement on incredible rock. Superb! The mantel at the roof before the headwall is a tad easier for shorter folks.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: C Tirrell When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Inflictor (5.12-)
By: C Tirrell When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be a superb, sustained .11 finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips. The only detraction is that one can stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key moments, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing..
I support adding independent anchors to this line. Both finishes make cleaning difficult and damage the rock. Definitely worth... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Pole Position (5.10a)
By: C Tirrell When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doable, but tenuous. Bring the handful of small cams.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Corn Flakes (5.9)
By: C Tirrell When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
By: C Tirrell When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch offers two distinct, technical .11- cruxes, separated by an airy rest. Thin gear in the dihedral, off-finger to protect the undercling. Paste the feet and go. Superb.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: C Tirrell When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Technical, delicate, superb! A true classic at the grade. I prefer to link the corner into one long pitch with runners at the bottom.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : The Dike Route (5.9 R)
By: C Tirrell When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most obvious, delicate, and beautiful lines I've had the pleasure to climb. A delicate dance up beautiful granite.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: C Tirrell When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey! I took that photo!! Those are my duct-taped pants in the corner!! Way to style the lead, Dirka.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Clowntime is Over (5.9)
By: C Tirrell When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd give this one .9+ if you're short, like me, and can't reach the jugs easily. Tried it for about 20 minutes, climbing up and down. Finally busted some hard moves with both feet cut to reach the jugs and mantle over. Stimulating!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: C Tirrell When: Aug 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite cragging routes. Aesthetic, sustained and a little burly.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: C Tirrell When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be less classic than advertised. The loose flakes and meandering nature of the lower pitches detracted from the overall character of the route, although this is still an amazing passage through the face. Pretty hard to put a rating on the crux roof, definitely would give it 9++ if you're shorter. I couldn't stem as in the route photos far enough out and ended up in straight chimney technique with back against one wall and feet against the other, until I could reach out a... more >>
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