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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hueco Wall : Gun For Hire (5.11a)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Similar in difficulty to "Good to be Awake" but of lesser quality. It's somewhat sustained once you leave the huecos and the rock in the crux area isn't the best with some obvious broken holds.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Welcome to NJC (5.10a)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A recommended route for the grade with it's variety of moves and quality rock. No real crux on this but it does require a bit more technique than some of the others at the grade.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Dr. Know (5.10b)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: More technical than strenuous but not the most enjoyable route with it's tedious lower section, fortunately the upper section redeems it slightly.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Gold Finger (5.10a)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best of the bunch here with thoughtful climbing down low and a juggy finish out a bulge. Seems a little easier than the nearby "Welcome to NJC".
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Fun in the Sun (5.9)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kinda cool stemming down low, a low-angled section in the middle to a brief but steep finish make this an ideal warm-up for the wall.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Walk In The Park (5.7+)
By: C Miller When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing on positive holds but no way is this a 5.8 route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : Igor Prince of Poodles (5.11+ R)
By: C Miller When: Feb 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, still climbable at the given grade - it sounds like your friend gave you bad beta.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Welcome to Frustration (5.8)
By: C Miller When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun but it's a little on the short side.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : Igor Prince of Poodles (5.11+ R)
By: C Miller When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin and insecure through the lower portion with some tenuous clips, overall a great test of footwork and body positioning. If leading consider a crashpad and/or a single locking biner on the 1st bolt.
Hand-drilled ground-up from stances on the first ascent.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Casino Royale (5.11a)
By: C Miller When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful clipping the traverse bolt as a fall will likely land you on the slab below; clipping the 3rd bolt on Sweat Band with a long sling, downclimbing and then doing the traverse is more involved but safer.
Good rock and some fun moves on the traverse but it really should have been left as a toprope. One star out of five.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Leaving Las Vegas (5.10b)
By: C Miller When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy climbing up to the break where a good 0.75" or 1" cam can be placed in a horizontal just down and left from the first bolt. Once on the wall proper the climbing is well-protected with a definite crux getting to the 3rd bolt in the lighter colored rock.
Fun climbing but the rock quality is not the best and it seems likely the climb will only get harder as the rock at the crux wears away with more traffic.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Shaken Not Stirred (5.8 R)
By: C Miller When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorta fun climbing up a vertical face to slabby rib and then finish up the steep face climbing of Plain But Good Hearted.
Did a toprope variation of this route near the top by stemming onto the main face at a vertical seam and making a few thin moves past a cool two finger pocket to join Leaving Las Vegas just past the 3rd bolt - it seemed about 5.10a or so.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Plain But Good Hearted (5.6)
By: C Miller When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy moves down low to a wider crack in the middle then positive but runout face climbing on large rounded holds. It's possible to get a decent offset cam (3.5") in a flared pod about halfway from the end of the crack to the anchors.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Schoolhouse Rock : The Check's in the Mail (5.7)
By: C Miller When: Feb 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this again today and it's still 5.7, maybe a little trickier than normal but not 5.11 unless you avoid using the arete out right.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Giant Step (5.10b/c)
By: C Miller When: Feb 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.11 route to the left of this is called Raw Deal.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Rat Crack Variation (5.10)
By: C Miller When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start up Rat crack, do the crux of that route then cut right to a bolt out right (new 3/8"). The climb then goes straight up to reach the left side of a horizontal crack which is foot-traversed straight right for about 10-15 feet, clips a rusty bolt and then continues up on rough orange rock past one more rusty bolt to a rusty anchor.
Fun climbing on this but it looks like this route hasn't been done in years with the flaky rock and vegetated horizontal crack mid-route. Were this to get clean... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Bobcat (5.10a)
By: C Miller When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toproped this in January 1999 and called it Krazy Kat; nice to see it's been bolted.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Photo
By: C Miller When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, and the brand new Kinnaloa chalk bag!
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : La Femme Fatale (5.10b)
By: C Miller When: Feb 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The proper name of this is La Femme Fatale.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Photo
By: C Miller When: Feb 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For reference the route Funeral Pyre (5.11b) is just out of frame to the left.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Poetry Rock : Powerslave (5.11b)
By: C Miller When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of the route is Powerslave and while originally rated 5.11+ by the first ascent party it seems a little easier than that.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: C Miller When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The PG13 rating comes from the unprotected and bouldery crux start which you can see in one of the beta photos. An easier and safer alternative is to start around the corner to the right and climb easy slab up and left to reach the first bolt. The upper crack section is well-protected and no harder than 5.7 or so.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : The Shunned (5.9+)
By: C Miller When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin edges down low gain a crack of sorts that's pinched and liebacked to reach some jugs and then finishes up a short section of delicate face to anchors.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Sliver of Light (5.10b)
By: C Miller When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like many of the routes in the area holds have broken making this harder than originally rated. The bouldery crux at the 4th bolt involves an edge for the left hand and a crimp for the right with poor feet as you mantle up onto a small edge.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Six Feet Under (5.11d)
By: C Miller When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route is Six Feet Under.
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