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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why after nearly 35 years did Henry Barber come and chop the bolts on this route???
One night while hanging out at Paul & Loretta's house Henry, overheard Mike Todd and Mark Smedley talking about a new route they had been working on Super Pin. The next day Henry went on too steal the route from them. America is a free country and none of us owns the rock. Henry was a notorious route thief and he pissed off local climbers almost everywhere he went due to actions such as his on the FA of this rou... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Hornsby's Rock : Pestilence (5.9)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last moves on this route are quite reachy for someone under 5'-6" tall.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Hornsby's Rock : The Way It Is (5.9)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kertzman, get off your lazy ass and go fix this route or get the BHCC to do it. The route is very fun but the bolts leave a little too be desired. The bolt count could be reduced by one if the first two werwe rearranged. There is no real need for another bolt up high... after this is still the Needle last time I checked.
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Location: SD : Raspberry Rocks : Weather Watchers Wall : Carl's Bad Caverns (5.7)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Aug 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In light of the fact that this is the best easy route here at Raspberry Rocks, I would have to give it classic must do status. Not too mention the unique nature of the second pitch. If you climb it the way the Dakota Kid claims it was originally climbed then, doing so in one pitch will not seem so bad. You might want to take a #4 & #5 camalots for the first 30'.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Goldline : Goldline (5.8)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whiteline to the left and Hotline to the right. Yet another variation called Perlon. If Tricouni Nail is 5.8 then this route is only 5.7.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : King Pin : Organized Crime (5.10- PG13)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. by Paul Duval
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Location: SD : The VC : Khmer Rouge NS (5.11b) : Photo
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just how can the Monkey Beast properly deal with the sausage factor in light of not first assuming the prison style stance?
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Jul 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently heard J.D. sent "Little Monster" first try. The rumor is he hired a couple of drunks from day labor to enhance (chip) all of the holds, added five bolts and the route now goes at a stout V0-... What a tragedy! Not much different than his piping in on this thread and bringing it down to his level. The real question is who should really do some serious soul searching about their climbing motives?
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Hornets Nest : The Pollinator (5.10b/c)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first crux is reachy for me (i'm 5'6") and might be a one move 5.11-.
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Location: SD : Raspberry Rocks : Weather Watchers Wall : Original Sin (5.10d)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors (rusty old bolts) at the top of the first pitch are scary.
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Location: SD : Raspberry Rocks : The Ramp : Fascination Street (5.10b)
By: Byron J. Hastings When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure to take several two foot slings.
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