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Member Since: Sep 16, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 10,650
Total Points: 18
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 25 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 18 | Posts 7 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Beaver (5.5)
By: Buzz When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: A solo onsight downclimb of the Palisades can be "very exciting" indeed. Here's what I did (before discovering the route had a name and the route description above):

  • Start down the first (not second) notch when viewed from above.
  • Start down its south side (it has two halves).
  • Downclimb an honest jam crack, then switch to the easier crack 8' to the left (facing down).
  • Continue down on easier, broken slabs.
  • At some hard-to-describe point, like halfway down, or when you can't go any fur...
 more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Buzz When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: I've done Kiener's a dozen times, and just read the description for the first time - here's a few clarifications and ideas:

  • Every year there is a one month window when it's really good: after B'way has melted enough so you can walk around the snow, but before Lamb's Slide has melted down to ice. Early July is usually excellent.
  • Lamb's Slide is commonly skied, so I wouldn't get too worked up about it - there's no reason to rope up let alone place pro.
  • I've often scrambled up Glacier Ridge...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder Outdoor Coalition A...
By: Buzz When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: In case you're thinking of letting this slide, just last Wednesday Open Space and Mt Parks proposed to ban access after dark to the Flatirons. This is so whacked you might think I'm making this up, but unfortunately I am not.

Quit your complaining ... vote! And help spread the word:

boulderoutdoorcoalition.org/


Location: CO : Boulder Outdoor Coalition A...
By: Buzz When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: If you live in the City of Boulder, I sure hope you vote! This is a big deal. A few people invest literally 1,000s of hours into protecting your access; once every two years, you can really help!

The restrictions proposed for City Open Space (Flatirons) are so bizarre you would think I was kidding - but unfortunately, they are not kidding.

The outdoor community is infamous for not voting; please try to change that image.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : CMC Route (5.5)
By: Buzz When: Mar 5, 2011

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Comments: Love this route; done it twice, both solo IAD.

Unless I've really been messing up - which is possible - the route description has a problem: "(the descent) is only fourth-class downclimbing and does not require rappelling;" Since the route is 5.5, and the descent is the same route, something isn't right here.

Hardest section is probably downclimbing Drizzlepuss while on the way up. There's opportunity for massive scrambling on quality rock here; I once traversed... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Buzz When: Mar 26, 2010

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Comments: Started hard and stayed hard, bottom to top; experts at steep friction would feel otherwise. A full selection of BD C3's really helps.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Buzz When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Bill Wright and I did this on 7/25. We then continued up and onto the North Ridge of Chiefshead. This is a very obvious link-up; we were shocked there is no mention of it anywhere. Spearhead is essentially a protuberance of the Chiefshead North Ridge, so once you get all the way up there, you might as well keep going. "Spearchief".

Chiefshead N Ridge is broken up by talus slopes, but the headwalls turn out to have excellent climbing. The lack of continuous 5th class rock may both... more >>


Location: CO : Celebrate Eldorado 2008
By: Buzz When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: I recommend the Rattlesnake Ramble on Sunday! It's a rare opportunity to do a trail race near Boulder (the City and County both have banned competitive events of any kind on our Open Space). The atmosphere is fun and low-key, it's an excellent course, a lot of climbers enter this, and it's a benefit for ACE. You can usually show up that morning and enter. Hope to see you there.

www.aceeldo.org/celebrate_eldorado/EldoradoTrailRun.php


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Better than Love (5.8 R)
By: Buzz When: Jul 26, 2008

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Comments: I have no insights; here is a quick TR to make planning easier for others.

7:00 am Friday 7/25/08 - Left Bear Lake Parking. The Shuttle starts running at 7:00 am, they never close the road to cars, but the lot fills on weekends by 9 am. Hike up trail, go around Emerald Lake on left onto pretty good climber path to base.
8:30 - Started up route. The start is to the left of Love and C-B (unlike route description above). P2 is excellent (all foot stems). Routefinding is easy to the ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: The was a trail constructed in 1923 to take guests from Zion Lodge to the top of Lady Mountain. A very ambitious route, it was abandoned by the Park Service in the 60's, which means it now is a great scramble route! Best done when it's cool or even drizzly, a rope is not needed, a handline might help, and you have to navigate and look carefully to follow remnants of the trail. It's worth it.

Route description (excellent canyoneering site) here: canyoneeringusa.com/utah/zion/

I went f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: If one had those two roofs dialed, 5.8+ might seem right, but onsite I'm willing to say those roofs are niners. The commitment factor of those moves, and the continuous steepness elsewhere, make this a remarkable route. Doubling up on 1" and 2" would really help on P1, and plenty of small stuff for P2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Buzz When: Apr 15, 2008

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Comments: I've soloed this route about 20 times so hopefully I know what I'm doing, and Cleve McCarty taught me to climb so I'm more old school than anyone here except George, and this route is solid 5.6. A short person unable to reach one of the solution pockets would have to hand jamb the crack and call it 5.7. Excellent route.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Buzz When: Feb 29, 2008

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Comments: Approval has been given for an official trail to the Mickey Mouse Wall (no bikes or horses allowed). This came after a full year of serious effort by the local FCC representative, Tom Issacson. It is slated to be constructed Sept 08. Most of the alignment is clear, but how to approach and cross the tracks is not.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Buzz When: Feb 29, 2008

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Comments: I easily and fully support this trail.

Climbers must spend serious time and effort preserving our ability to access climbing areas; this work is critically important in order to practice our sport. So here is another user group in the same predicament ... do they not deserve our kinship and support? And as others have noted (except for one person, who apparently does not live in this area), mountain bikes have been banned from most trails on public lands in Boulder County;... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Buzz When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: Pfiffner Traverse - LA Freeway. I just saw the query/post from '03. I did Long's Peak to Arapaho, all on the divide, on July 8 & 9, 2002. I named it the "LA Freeway". ("Longs" to "Arapaho", and because it's not much of a freeway; there's some stout sections in there). I did it fairly casually, 16 hrs both days, car - car. Very highly recommended.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Buzz When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Like everyone else says, doing the Touch & Go start creates a very solid route. Here's what we did:
P1 T n G - Even tho I've done this a lot, it somehow remains hard and was definitely the crux of the climb for me.
P2 - Keep the belay at the bolts, walk across the huge ledge and start up the wall heading for a vertical crack. Routefinding is easier and there's pro on this pitch. The roof seems like 5.7 not 8. 2 pins in vertical crack above a small but comfortable ledge for belay.
P3 - Quite ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Buzz When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: This is a remarkably popluar climb on weekends! Start it just above the Fir tree bent around a bulge in base of cliff.

The guidebooks seemed confusing, so did this in 3 perfect pitches, which were natural and logical. P1 is mostly a scramble, up to a massive flat ledge. P2 is continuous, a series of bulges that are awkwardly fun, and finishes on a very large flat ledge. P3 clips an old pin (looked fine to me), traverses onto the face to the right, then romps up a single steepish continuous ... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: speed record on the 3rd flatironColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionBuzzOct 11, 2011
Arches Climbing Rules - CommentGeneral ClimbingBuzzMar 7, 2011
re: Rapping off the Grand TetonColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionBuzzAug 23, 2010
re: 2 Hikers Rescued on GREEN MOUNTAIN.Colorado & Rocky Mountain RegionBuzzNov 1, 2009
Found: Rope in Eldorado Canyon SPLost and FoundBuzzJul 22, 2009
re: Eldo/Over The Hill AccidentInjuries and AccidentsBuzzMay 31, 2009
re: Running and climbingOther SportsBuzzApr 11, 2008