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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Lucille (5.12d) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is among the most interesting climbing photos I have seen. Just great and super impressive!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Lost Valley Crag : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Allen,
Might look different with the burn. Never heard of anyone going there. It has had early attempts (prior to our visit) on the south face, as I recall. We were lucky to nail the main lines on the SW face. There are new routes there to do. We did not report these via the Bucksnort Saloon system - we'd discovered by then that the system was a hoax and that those involved were not interested in accuracy in reporting. I forwarded to mtn proj a couple years ago. Cheers!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Lost Valley Crag : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's good rock. Has potential for new hard single pitch routes, I think. Also, how about that boulder in the foreground?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that you are posting in the wrong place - if there is more banter about Infidel put it in the Infidel posting area. Also, if you go climb it, give it to us straight. Go do it.
The bolts are actually 5/16 (not 3/8 or 1/4) inch buttonheads. I did the FA of this route in the early eighties.
Help the SP climbing area to rise to the standards of other climbing areas by reporting accurately.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't mean anything by the bolt comment - just sometimes hear talk of making routes "safe".
I'd guess there are lines on that rock that would be pretty stiff. I eyed the ramp that goes right (instead of left, where we went). It disappears around the corner... Here's to drilling on the sharp end!
If you go, I'd love to hear about it. Might just get back there myself one day soon.
Stewart, Bryan Ferguson here. Are the Stewart Green I climbed with a couple of time around 1980?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, so I got a chance to re-visit the area - while you all were talking about Goose Creek CG, I was thinking Molly Gulch (sorry 'bout that). The Goose Creek approach looks like the way to go to the Infidel.
I posted up a couple pics that clarify what slabs we climbed on. Hope it helps clarify the questions we share. I suspect there are a bunch of FAs in this area.
Peace.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allan, thanks for the kudos. We did step up that day understanding that this was a great climb and that we'd need all our skills and nerve to make it a climb that might stand times tests. We still are hoping we did the right thing. I recall the party you refer to - we were very keen on getting someone up there to confirm our suspicions that this was a cool route!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : The Infidel : The Infidel (5.11b/c R)
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding bolts on The Infidel:
I understand replacing bolts with modern, safer bolts but please don't add bolts to the Infidel. I lead the first and third pitches on-sight without pre-view and drilled each bolt (no power drill - all with hand brace and hammer) on lead without aid (Jay lead pitches two and three). The addition of bolts will alter the route in a way that will erase the spirit in which the route first was done.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll tail in here and on the Infidel page - I understand replacing bolts with modern, safer bolts but please don't add bolts to the Infidel. I lead the first and third pitches on-sight without pre-view and drilled each bolt (no power drill - all with hand brace and hammer) on lead without aid (Jay lead pitches two and four). The addition of bolts will alter the route in a way that will erase the spirit in which the route first was done.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys got me thinking you might be right. I just tried google earthing around and it didn't add much clarity. I am over due for a visit down there. The crag I refer to might be insignificant on the South Platte scale but the climbing was great. We spotted the Infidel from the top. I don't think it is the Couch Potato (unless we were there early on??). Slim, I suspect this crag might be a bit further south than you describe - seemed like a lot of bushwhacking and not steep enough to have hard ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: buttonheadspinner When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed there back in the early '80s. Had a couple FAs – one on each main rock. On the Northerly of the two slabs we climbed Crawlspace (stiff 5.8, run out). Step up and left from the large cleft/weakness that separates the slabs and follow the bolts.
On the southerly slab we did a new route called Ooooaaah. An interesting lead up the middle with long runouts and a nut placement in the middle of nowhere near the top. I remember a simul-climbing finish but with the longer ropes of today, that... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Church Rock : Regular Route (5.9) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing the pockets to the notch, north side of church rock. Bill Ellwood photo. Nine-ish and exciting with sandy slopers. This ascent around 1983. SLCD's made it pretty safe. Not sure about the weird anchors in other photos - we might have counter weight rappelled or down climbed - can't remember for sure... Great to reminisce
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+)
By: buttonheadspinner When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the vid of a recent ascent of the wide crack pitch:
by Joe P.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Bird's View Butte / Crow's ...
By: buttonheadspinner When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen's right, there must be a practical approach from the Potash/white Rim/Shafer Trail area. The first ascent of the spire was done before the rap route was in. We put the rap in and were pretty surprised to find we'd been scooped on the FA... We were very motivated to complete the jugs by the strategically placed beverage cooler.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : The Infidel : The Infidel (5.11b/c R) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: May 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My best recollection is spring of '83??.
Thanks Allen - it's been a long time....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Hardscrabble Tower : Hardscrabble (5.9 A3) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Notice the rope hanging free near the left margin.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Campground Route (5.8 A3)
By: buttonheadspinner When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We felt confident at the time (1984) that this was an FA to the notch. We found no piton scarring or other evidence of climbers before us. It's disputed so we would certainly defer to the great one - Kor himself!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Kor Route (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We felt confident at the time (1984) that this was an FA to the notch. We found no piton scarring or other evidence of climbers before us. It's disputed so we would certainly defer to the great one - Kor himself!
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Location: CO : South Platte : North Turkey Creek Crags
By: buttonheadspinner When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spent many an afternoon climbing at this great area. It is a shame to see it closed. The rock is so cool - never seen anything like it anywhere else.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+) : Photo
By: buttonheadspinner When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Notice climbers on Islet (third ascent circa 1985)
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