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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Waterway Boulder : Dropped in The Water (V3)
By: Buster Jesik When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When did you do the "FA"? I'v been climbing this traverse for a couple years and I'm sure I'm not the first either. Also, it's a shame that someone vandalized this problem with that stupid, orange, hippy, sun thing.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : In Your Face (5.11)
By: Buster Jesik When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the bolts are in really funky spots, and some just create horrible rope drag. That's what happens when you bolt on lead! Still a good route, if you can downclimb to back clean the funky bolts.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Pocket Laureate (5.12a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe there's a way to contrive a .12a sequence, but I didn't find it. The opening moves are a little thin, but really positive. 11b.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Classic Crack (5.10 V0-)
By: Buster Jesik When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this is at the scoop area. It made more sense to me to put it here because the driving directions for the Land of Overhangs area is more appropriate then the Rotary Park directions. I'm a little confused as to why the Scoop is listed under Rotary in the first place.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Bust 'er Hymen (5.11 PG13)
By: Buster Jesik When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel obligated to climb this route.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the Kahuna Roof, no?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Classic Crack (5.10 V0-)
By: Buster Jesik When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got the name for this one out of the Horsetooth Hang guidebook. If someone knows of a "more official" name or who did the FA, post up. It's a fun little crack problem, and there aren't many in the FoCo area, so I though it be worth posting up.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's not get carried away here, the static start could very well be a V7 (I don't know because I'm not a V7 climber) but the problem as established is an old school V5. Once you figure it out it can feel even easier than the V4s next door. Inflating the grade on a historic problem because it's "better style" to contrive a harder way of getting 3 feet off the ground so one can have a more impressive V-number on their tick list seems ridiculous to me. Climb it with one hand tied behind your back ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears that a clever sport climber has finally found a use for trad gear, ha!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : ... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tic Tac.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Im a big fan of Gordy's right hand tape glove.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Nov 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome to the jungle!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Buster Jesik When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new plaque is beautiful, leave it alone. If this isn't a 4 star pitch I don't know what is.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Kor Route (5.9)
By: Buster Jesik When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was super fun. Nice sustained moderate climbing that goes on and on. The worst death blocks were on the 1st and 3rd pitches. The one on the 1st pitch is by the pin when you go left out of the corner, and the one on the 3rd pitch is about 30 ft off the belay and is really scary. It is a 3 ft tall pillar sitting on a sloping ledge so precarious it seems to sway in the breeze. I recommend the .10a variation on the second pitch. Go straight up to the grassy ledge instead of trav... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Nipple Wall : The Nipple Wall (V3 R)
By: Buster Jesik When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest
By: Buster Jesik When: Jun 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A week ago the tyrol was in bad shape ... today it had two new static ropes! Thanks to whomever fixed it up.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : ... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rarely does a picture to justice to climbing situations. This one is awesome! I'm a wuss, so I take my pack off there and crawl under that boulder.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake
By: Buster Jesik When: May 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dirt lot above the bridge area is still filled with construction equipment.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Sporting Green (5.12a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One can belay from the bottom of the gully (by the base of Dear Slabby) with no problems.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Citadel : Rapunzel, Rapunzel (5.10a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a good choice for someone wanting to break into 5.10- as it is over bolted.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Martha today - it was almost all unconsolidated sugar snow. Right now you could probably fit all of the ice that's up there in to a single cooler.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Corner Climb (5.7)
By: Buster Jesik When: Mar 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know who put the bolts in?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Mar 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who doesn't?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+) : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: HA! that was some random dude, no one we know ... he forgot to save a #3 for the roof, so he kept whipping on 2 tipped #2's set in the back corner.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : Upper Falls (WI2)
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the right side there is some crazy, ancient, ice peg thing sticking out, anyone know anything about it? It seriously looks to be about 500 years old.
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