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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c) : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Juan is my hero!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Red Bull and Vodka (M11)
By: Buster Jesik When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there a consensus rating for just the first pitch?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Buster Jesik When: Oct 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In regards to the first Rap anchor on power failure... It is still kind buried in mud, but the bolts seem fine and it isn't very hard to find. I moved most of the loose rock from the rock fall out of the way, so it is a bit safer now. Continue to use caution though especially if there is a party above as there is still a good amount of loose rock.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Buster Jesik When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! With one 60m, a team confident enough to simul on 5.6-5.7 can do this route in 3 pitches. From the base, solo up the highest ledge (easiest way wanders a bit). 1. the leader links p1-2 and some of 3, (the second is simul-ing on easy ground). This is not runout if you bring doubles to #3. From there, two 40-45 meter pitches will get you to the top!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Shattered Dreams (WI5+ M8)
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone knows the F.A. credits, post up, I'll update.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Working Man (5.12b)
By: Buster Jesik When: Dec 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that with the broken hold, 12.c would be a fair rating. That move is harder than anything on French are Here.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Back To The Future (5.11b/c)
By: Buster Jesik When: Nov 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 11/21/10 the bolt is still missing. Is anyone planning on replacing it?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Sep 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I told you it was hard Ian, you didn't believe me!
Anyway, my sending rack for this thing consisted of...
3 blue TCUs
4 yellow TCUs
2 orange TCUs
1 red TCU
a few stoppers.
That's all you need!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northeast Ridge (Knife-Edge... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Jul 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gnarly Bo, Gnarly.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: sweet pitch, could use a bolted anchor though
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, this thing eats stoppers like crazy. I placed a #3 down low, a purple tcu in a horizontal below the roof, and a 0.75 after the crux, the rest were nuts and fixed pins.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can easily be done in 3 pitches with a 60m. Linking 2 and 3 by going left avoiding the big flake and up an easy runout arete is a nice variation that keeps the rope in a straight line.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Waterway Boulder : Dropped in The Water (V3)
By: Buster Jesik When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When did you do the "FA"? I'vE been climbing this traverse for a couple years, and I'm sure I'm not the first either. Also, it's a shame that someone vandalized this problem with that stupid, orange, hippy sun thing.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : In Your Face (5.11)
By: Buster Jesik When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the bolts are in really funky spots, and some just create horrible rope drag. That's what happens when you bolt on lead! Still a good route, if you can downclimb to back clean the funky bolts.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Pocket Laureate (5.12a)
By: Buster Jesik When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe there's a way to contrive a .12a sequence, but I didn't find it. The opening moves are a little thin, but really positive. 11b.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Classic Crack (5.10 V0-)
By: Buster Jesik When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this is at the scoop area. It made more sense to me to put it here because the driving directions for the Land of Overhangs area is more appropriate then the Rotary Park directions. I'm a little confused as to why the Scoop is listed under Rotary in the first place.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Bust 'er Hymen (5.11 PG13)
By: Buster Jesik When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel obligated to climb this route.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the Kahuna Roof, no?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Classic Crack (5.10 V0-)
By: Buster Jesik When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got the name for this one out of the Horsetooth Hang guidebook. If someone knows of a "more official" name or who did the FA, post up. It's a fun little crack problem, and there aren't many in the FoCo area, so I though it be worth posting up.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Buster Jesik When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's not get carried away here, the static start could very well be a V7 (I don't know because I'm not a V7 climber) but the problem as established is an old school V5. Once you figure it out it can feel even easier than the V4s next door. Inflating the grade on a historic problem because it's "better style" to contrive a harder way of getting 3 feet off the ground so one can have a more impressive V-number on their tick list seems ridiculous to me. Climb it with one hand tied behind your back ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears that a clever sport climber has finally found a use for trad gear, ha!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : ... : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tic Tac.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Im a big fan of Gordy's right hand tape glove.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Buster Jesik When: Nov 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome to the jungle!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Buster Jesik When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new plaque is beautiful, leave it alone. If this isn't a 4 star pitch I don't know what is.
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