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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Prerequisite for Excellence (5.8)
By: BTodd When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and the ones next to it are great, however, the left anchor bolt for this route is loose - the bolt spins - you can try to twist it back in, but you can tug it out with your hand easily...
I don't know which organization replaces anchors at t-wall, but we should let them know, apparently they have been replacing a bunch lately...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the thin fault was scary, I wish I could have put more gear in. However, its a great climb. I've seen people use this to top rope the 5.10 to the left that looks like fun...just put a directional in.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Hammond Organ (5.10d)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Drilling for Dollars (5.8)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the crux really is crazy like stated above, yet it looks so easy while belaying...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Junco (5.8+)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think)
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Technical Second (5.10b)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I could have figured out the non-burly way. I was one of the people that sat there for a while trying to figure it out and then pulled a crazy toe hook and hand foot match of some sort and felt relieved not to take the whipper... this climb didn't feel like any other of the rumney climbs I have done. It was worth doing, but I can't say I'll ever do it again on lead.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a great route with really interesting moves, it has a little bit of everything
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Rack for Sale (5.7)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of fun. My friend is still new to leading and led it and liked it a lot. I followed it and thought it was a lot more fun than the 10s on the other side of it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Left El Diego (5.9)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb, this route and the 5.7 to the left of it were the most fun routes in this section of the wall. The 5.7 (although easier) might actually be even more fun.
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Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Black Dog Crack (5.10b)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really liked this climb, especially the wild top section
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : RhinoBuckets (5.10a)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually enjoyed the climb (except the ending part with the chains, that is a difficult move)
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Cold Turkey (5.10c)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree it is like two completely different routes in one. I also thought the top slab portion is very runout and pretty scary if you aren't totally into slab. However, it was a fun climb and I'd do it again. The bottom section was a really fun puzzle to figure out.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Bolt Line (5.8)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt it was a little difficult for the grade, but maybe because I don't love slab climb as much as other types...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic (5.10a)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: unless I was on the wrong route, I thought this was more difficult as well...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Squall (5.10c/d)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is an awesome climb. I agree that the start is really difficult for shorter climbers (my friend couldn't follow it, because she couldn't reach the first hold) and yes it does seem like a long way to the chains from the last bolt. I missed the last bolt because it was on the left side of a point that you come around and I was just focused on getting to the chains...but luckily the second to last bolt was on the other side of that point...phew
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Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Three Easy Pieces (5.11a)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is an awesome climb. It took a little creativity to get a good stance for the second bolt.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Spiro
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friends and I thought that this climb and the one to the left of it (jolt) were the most fun climbs of our weekend at Rumney. A bunch of us led both climbs and everyone thought they were of equal difficulty, or actually thought that this climb is really a 5.10 and jolt is more of an exposed 5.9
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Nicky's Crack (5.11d)
By: BTodd When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: although you can just top rope it (using the 5.6 next to it), I thought it was a nice 11 to lead if you are starting to get into leading 11's... especially since if you can't make it and your partner can't get up it either, you can always lead the 5.6 and get your gear etc. I agree that it is more small crimps and footwork than a crack.
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