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Rock Climbing Photo: Just a little overhanging....


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,330
Total Points: 579
Last Year: 94
Last 30 Days: 9
37 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 585 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 60 | Stars 202 | Ratings 160
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 1 day ago

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Comments: We unfortunately had to bail after the 3rd pitch due to frigid temps and deteriorating weather, but the first two pitches of this route are a masterpiece of rock climbing! Thoughtful and sustained slab/face with a healthy dose of spice!

The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin, but short and well protected. It eases significantly afterwards, but still keeps you on your toes (literally).

Expect to work a little harder way abov... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This is an amazing route and certainly a "magical mystery tour". All the gear beta is spot on, but I'm surprised I didn't see anything mentioned for protecting the flake after the first three (?) bolts on the crux pitch. A long sling (four footer) can be used to sling the very obvious hole. A large (#3 or #4 Camalot) could be used, I suppose, but that flake is thin and very vibrato! Getting from the bolt to the fla... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Mater Hater (5.12-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route! The upper part is very Wild Iris! The left hand jug/flake that you use to pull up into the ramp/corner is a bit suspicious... thankfully you don't have to pull too hard, but exercise caution.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Wyoming Flower Child (5.11d) : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that is Center El Shinto. WFC starts to the right, in a crack as well.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Passover (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolt #6 on this route is in bad shape. Sticking out ~1/4 inch, and quite rusty....

You may want to, dare I say, pass over this route for the time being...


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : Trail of Tears Wall : Trail of Tears (5.12a/b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: The pockets before gaining the arete were very dusty. Even with a brushing, they didn't seem to get better. Certainly adds some difficulty!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : World Domination : Weight Of The World (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Felt harder than World Leader Pretend. The headwall doesn't have as hard a move as WLP, but more sustained, I thought.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Lower Remuda : Court and Spark (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I wouldn't describe the opening as being "a few slab moves"...felt pretty darn steep and bouldery


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Gun Street : Cowboy King Wall : Choke Cherry Eyes (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Tread lightly on the upper head wall. The rock quality deteriorates quite a bit.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Felt harder than Ruby Shooter and Court & Spark...


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Lone Pilgrim (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic pitch. Probably no 12a move, but very sustained at mid-to-hard 5.11. Certainly a 12a effort overall.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Brother Clucker (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route, but the top is still cleaning up. Knocked a football sized cobble off with my foot just below the anchors. The bottom half, where the crux is, is super solid and very clean.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: The 1st and 3rd bolts don't seem to be in the best shape. The first seemed the worst, it was slightly pulled out of the rock. Great route though.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Partners in Crime (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: The opening moves on this are harder for me than any of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf, or any of the 12a-12b McLaughlin/Schuler routes I've been on in the S-Platte. I can see it being 11c if you're tall and have the reach, but not at 5'7"....

Regardless, it's a beautiful route. The upper part is great, sustained low-5.11 climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11b/c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Even if you don't send, rest assured that the whipper from the top of the crux is quite satisfying.

This route was way more restful than I had anticipated. I was totally on my feet for the traverse and had plenty of time to place good gear. I thought I was going to have to gun it right when I got to the base of the slot, but again, there are great feet and you can really keep the weight off your arms with the right body position. I still feel at the top of the crux from being pumped, so who ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Phenomenal route, one of my favorites in Red Rock or anywhere for that matter. Makes cloud tower look like a pile ;-)

The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 70 m rope and about 30 feet of simul-climbing. However, the leader will need to place minimal gear and put runners on everything as the pitches wander. Linking 3-4 would be very difficult. Those first 4 pitches go very fast, but also bake in the sun in April until noon'ish. Once at the base of p5 you're mostly shaded by the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone comment on the sun/shade times for this route in June?


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet, but watch out for the Mosquitos! Come prepared or suffer the consequences. I brought a full upper body mosquito suit for camp and it was not excessive at all. they bothered us a bit on the lower pitches of the routes we did (first 2 pitches, maybe), but we're non-existent higher up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : Life in the Fast Lane (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: This was a fun, and memorable route. I'm pretty short and ended up having to do a pretty terrifying rightward lunge to a jug with the 2nd bolt well below my feet. Exciting! The upper part is great, it's like walking the plank...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: This is a masterpiece! I got a very solid RP before committing to the mantle move getting to the 2nd bolt. A small, normal nut could probably work too. Very obvious placement from a good stance before the hard move.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Made In The USA (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Compared to similarly graded routes (EBGB's, Such A Savage, Hot Rocks, Swept Away, etc.) this thing was hard and desperate. Really good though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Take the approach that C Miller describes above. Way more pleasant. Also, this is a fantastic winter wall. BAKES in the sun from sun rise until 1-2 pm around X-mas/new years. Probably not good if it's windy, though...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: There's an excellent (well, as good as you're going to get) #3 brass RP placement before the first bolt. It's almost directly right of the downward pointing flake feature on the face. A little tough to find, but it's from a great stance. I'd trust it to hold a small fall....

This felt quite a bit harder and certainly more heads-up than the Doub-Griffith.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: I was really bummed about this route. As Kenny said above, we did it and it was incredibly sandy. I'm sure the climbing is fantastic, but it was hard to focus on that with sand pouring out of the cracks and coated on the walls making smears and lay backing damn near impossible. I'm assuming this route gets climbed a lot more in the spring helping to clean it up and then it just sits untouched over the summer. Oh well...

In mid-October the sun hits the top of the route and works its way down... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Looking for Yesterday (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Great route, but still cleaning up a bit. We did three laps on it and some small stuff came down each time. It would be wise for the belayer to wear a helmet. Just as good as the stuff at minimum crag.


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