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Rock Climbing Photo: Just a little overhanging....


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: Jun 7, 2016
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Point Rank: # 1,345
Total Points: 561
Last Year: 312
Last 30 Days: 1
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 461 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 61 | Stars 149 | Ratings 102
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Partners in Crime (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: The opening moves on this are harder for me than any of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf, or any of the 12a-12b McLaughlin/Schuler routes I've been on in the S-Platte. I can see it being 11c if you're tall and have the reach, but not at 5'7"....

Regardless, it's a beautiful route. The upper part is great, sustained low-5.11 climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11b/c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Even if you don't send, rest assured that the whipper from the top of the crux is quite satisfying.

This route was way more restful than I had anticipated. I was totally on my feet for the traverse and had plenty of time to place good gear. I thought I was going to have to gun it right when I got to the base of the slot, but again, there are great feet and you can really keep the weight off your arms with the right body position. I still feel at the top of the crux from being pumped, so who ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Phenomenal route, one of my favorites in Red Rock or anywhere for that matter. Makes cloud tower look like a pile ;-)

The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 70 m rope and about 30 feet of simul-climbing. However, the leader will need to place minimal gear and put runners on everything as the pitches wander. Linking 3-4 would be very difficult. Those first 4 pitches go very fast, but also bake in the sun in April until noon'ish. Once at the base of p5 you're mostly shaded by the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone comment on the sun/shade times for this route in June?


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet, but watch out for the Mosquitos! Come prepared or suffer the consequences. I brought a full upper body mosquito suit for camp and it was not excessive at all. they bothered us a bit on the lower pitches of the routes we did (first 2 pitches, maybe), but we're non-existent higher up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : Life in the Fast Lane (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: This was a fun, and memorable route. I'm pretty short and ended up having to do a pretty terrifying rightward lunge to a jug with the 2nd bolt well below my feet. Exciting! The upper part is great, it's like walking the plank...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: This is a masterpiece! I got a very solid RP before committing to the mantle move getting to the 2nd bolt. A small, normal nut could probably work too. Very obvious placement from a good stance before the hard move.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Made In The USA (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Compared to similarly graded routes (EBGB's, Such A Savage, Hot Rocks, Swept Away, etc.) this thing was hard and desperate. Really good though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Take the approach that C Miller describes above. Way more pleasant. Also, this is a fantastic winter wall. BAKES in the sun from sun rise until 1-2 pm around X-mas/new years. Probably not good if it's windy, though...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: There's an excellent (well, as good as you're going to get) #3 brass RP placement before the first bolt. It's almost directly right of the downward pointing flake feature on the face. A little tough to find, but it's from a great stance. I'd trust it to hold a small fall....

This felt quite a bit harder and certainly more heads-up than the Doub-Griffith.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: I was really bummed about this route. As Kenny said above, we did it and it was incredibly sandy. I'm sure the climbing is fantastic, but it was hard to focus on that with sand pouring out of the cracks and coated on the walls making smears and lay backing damn near impossible. I'm assuming this route gets climbed a lot more in the spring helping to clean it up and then it just sits untouched over the summer. Oh well...

In mid-October the sun hits the top of the route and works its way down... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Looking for Yesterday (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Great route, but still cleaning up a bit. We did three laps on it and some small stuff came down each time. It would be wise for the belayer to wear a helmet. Just as good as the stuff at minimum crag.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.11d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: Yea, and in the Gunks it'd be 5.6...maybe 5.6+


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: The quicklink for the 4th or 5th bolt (can't remember) is showing some serious wear. It's got a decent groove where it makes contact with the bolt. I didn't have any extra quicklinks with me, but if I go back soon, I'll try and replace it as well as replace the webbing with chain as it's looking a bit worse for the wear. If you beat me to it, please post up here!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Wow, wow, wow! I think this pitch used to live in City of Rocks but got lost and ended up in Thunder Ridge. Expect some big air if you blow it between bolts 4-5! A medium nut can be placed to lessen the mild runout.

Also, the 4th bolt is hard to clip if you're on the short side. If you can have your taller partner hang a longer draw, you'll be psyched.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: What's the sun exposure like for the route mid-October?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Just to add on to what has been said above:

I had the chance to meet one of the landowners. He and his wife actually pulled up on their four-wheeler while my GF and I were walking the road and offered us a ride (hell yeah, we hopped on!), and he is a SUPER nice and friendly guy. We chatted for 5-10 minutes, and he pretty much said the same things that have been said above, also that the threatening gun signs are *mostly* a joke, haha! Please, please, please, respect this place and the rules su... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: Not sure if it was because of the floods or just the season, but as of this September 2015, there is no water even close to the bottom of the climb. It's a huge, open, dry area, and you can start the route right from the ground and avoid the traverse from the pedestal. This was my first time at the crag, so I'm not sure if that's how it is every fall. Regardless, it was a really pleasant place to hang out. Great shade until about 10:30 this time of year. After that, it'll bake in the sun for a w... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Heads up on the guidebook...the bolt count was off for a lot of the routes that I got on this past trip. Just be sure to always take a few extra draws with you! Other than that the guidebook is fantastic and the climbing is even better!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : Quest for Fire (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: For the 2nd bolt, you may want to consider putting 2 quickdraws together. With a normal draw, the rope gets pinched on an edge that isn't that sharp, but it still will put wear on your rope if you are falling and/or working the bottom moves. A longer style draw (like the petzl spirit) prevents the rope from getting pinched, but now that edge can actually open the gate of the rope end biner! 2 quickdraws put together (biner/dogbone/biner/dogbone/biner) works best! Food for thought...


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Glamrock : Winger (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: More on the wasp nest. They are SUPER aggressive, and while my buddy tried to avoid them they still stung him. They were even chasing him as he got lowered down! Be aware...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: The 2nd to last pitch felt just as hard as the final crux pitch. Really cool climbing throughout, although route finding is a bit tricky, and each pitch has some spice, except for maybe the last one. The rock is great, it's like Lumpy and Tuolumne had a baby....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Some gear beta I wish I'd had for the 2nd pitch: place your small gear in the first part (takes great nuts), and make sure to save your #0.5-1 Camalots for the second half! The belay takes cams from #0.75-3.

The traverse was rowdy! I took some whippers before figuring out the sequence, which involved some weird left hand-foot match while down stepping...funky! Be careful not to swing back into the flake - could get ugly.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: I thought about clipping that old button head...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Daily Planet (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: the 2nd pitch is burly! The squeeze chimney made the whole climb worthwhile. Great position!


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