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Just a little overhanging....


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,358
Total Points: 255
Last Year: 133
Last 30 Days: 4
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 226 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 55 | Stars 52 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This is an amazing pitch. Although, I didn't find it to be as spicy as many people had led me to believe. It just seemed like normal City of Rocks climbing. No hands rests before all of the hard parts!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - East : Technicolor Arete (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Wow! You'll be so psyched if you get on this thing! The climbing is nails hard until the horizontal, and there's probably a couple ways of doing it. I stayed left of the 2nd bolt using razor crimps and some funky left thumb gaston while getting my right foot into the hueco. Make sure you've got strong fingers and leather tips!

The 3rd bolt is in the worst place possible. If you blow that clip you could certainly deck. Bring a few nuts or a 0.5 camalot/orange metolius to place before the c... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Nematode : Bovine Guidance (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 6 days ago

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Comments: a blue metolius/green alien fits at the first horizontal, a yellow metolius/yellow alien at the second. amazing pitch.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields : Pigs on a Wing (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 6 days ago

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Comments: way better than Drilling Fields...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: I'm calling sandbag! A consensus of 5.10c? Maybe it's because I'm a shortie (5'7"), but I found the opening moves to be close to a V3 boulder problem, which leads to a good, active rest, and then another V2 boulder problem using sloping underclings with terrible feet. After that, it's still not over with some pumpy 5.10- crack that requires a lot of body English. The gear isn't that easy to place either, as it's quite small and finicky for most of the climb. Regardless, an incredible pitch of s... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Fever (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch. Maybe because it was the last route of the day, but it definitely felt hard for 5.11b. Some may want to consider stick clipping the first bolt....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Quest for Balance (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Very nice pitch of technical, devious face climbing. No chalk on it when I went up the first time and felt like 11+ onsight. After working out the moves, it felt pretty good at 11b going up the second time. Kind of hard to find but worth the effort if you're in the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : New Saigon (5.11a R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Nothing R rated about this at all. All bolts are in great condition. You get to the first ledge and can see holes of where old anchors used to be, but the route continues up past another bolt to another set of anchors. Is this a recent extension from when the bolts were updated? It doesn't match up with the guidebook description. Great route, felt the most difficult when compared to nearby Cardboard Cowboy and Back in Slacks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: As of this past Sunday (4/11/15), there is a very angry bat living in this crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: To avoid placing gear in the upper flake, I hung a long sling (a 36" & 18" clipped together) from the last bolt and then put a normal quickdraw on the same upper bolt. This allows you to clip some pro where you would be placing a cam/nut anyway and then clip the bolt again to protect the upper moves. Wimpy? Sure, but a fall onto a cam or nut on the upper flake would not be good.

This sets it up nicely for your redpoint if you don't onsight. When I went up it the first time, I just hung at the l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree with the above comment that Chris makes. If this route were in Eldo or a more "respectable" crag in BoCan, it would be 4-stars and highly sought after. I hadn't been to the Sport Park in years and figured I'd go and check it out again just for the hell of it. I'm glad I did, because my eye was immediately draw to this line, and I'm also a sucker for Grateful Dead references! So yes, say what you will about the sport park, but this is a quality line on BOMBER rock (aside from the first 10... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: The crux pitch on this thing is easily 4 stars! Amazing position, super solid rock, and great moves. If you link this from Super Slab (D.G. would probably be better!) and then finish on the OG finish of the Yellow Spur, it makes for a 5 star climb!

The 1st pitch off of the Upper Ramp is very lichenous and has some loose stuff, but it's worth it to get to the goods.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Some notes from a recent trip:

No fixed rope for the slabs, but it's super easy climbers left of the waterfall. There is a bolted rap climbers right of the waterfall to get down.

The p1 11c variation is awesome!

I thought p2 (p3 for the OG line) was the hardest pitch of the whole route. I took some big whippers on small gear traversing out right to the bolted, slightly overhanging face. Exciting!

The pro on this thing was way sportier than I expected. While it never felt run out, you def... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: A new #4 Camalot fits perfectly after the 2nd bolt, and there's a very obvious, chalked mail-slot/crack to the right between the 5th & 6th bolts that takes a perfect #7 (yellow) DMM alloy offset nut. Put a long sling on it though. That's the only gear you'd need if you're supplementing the bolts. The nut is not totally necessary, but I wouldn't want to go up this without a #4. Amazing climbing; very restful - about 3 no-hands rests, although it's quite pumpy on the ca... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Solo East (5.11)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: This is a less worn-down, rounded version of Blue Gramma.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Hyperspuds (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: The gear recommendations are spot on (blue metolius works in lieu of Aliens), as is the above comment regarding the grade. This thing is great but HARD!

One of my favorite 11's in the whole city.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Just A Little Insecure (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: I actually enjoyed this more than Hot Flyer, but I'm a sucker for aretes....

Super technical, balancy climbing until you hit the jug above the 3rd bolt. Felt like a super high-ball boulder problem!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: There are currently two fixed nuts after the pin on the dihedral pitch. The upper nut will hold a fall!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Patience Face (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: There's a no-hands rest for almost every bolt on this climb. Not complaining though, I love rests. This thing also makes for a great rope swing!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tiger's Tooth (5.9+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: This is hands down one of the best climbs I've ever done at Lumpy regardless of the grade or style. The position is amazing, it's long, clean, physical, and simply bad-ass! I used a #4, #5, #6 Camalot (on top of a standard rack) and felt that to be just fine. An extra #6 wouldn't be out of the question if you have it and don't want to bump. The chimney protects just fine with nuts and a selection of cams from tips-#0.75 Camalots. However, you've got to be small... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: The nut of the lowest bolt in the anchor is quite loose, which causes the hanger to spin. Hand tightened it as much as I could today, but it didn't do much....


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Original Beckey (5.11+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Dave's beta above is spot on. All fixed gear was in good shape July '14. P1 & P3 are very secure and safe, just trust your feet! Pitch for pitch, I thought this climb was FAR superior to Myopia. But that's just like, my opinion, man.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: I'll add some info, having just climbed this a week ago and these were the pitches I wouldn't of minded having some extra beta for...

p2 - Head up a hand crack corner and gain the headwall. Climb the headwall via finger sized cracks and some hollow flakes. Tread lightly here! There was a very obvious right traverse that I took here to gain the chimney on the right. The crack going straight up looked like it became a seam. After traversing right you gain the chimney, which quickly becomes ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Backtalk (5.10c R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a great pitch and a damn good lead, albeit spicy. I would not dissuade anyone from leading this if it's in your range - nearly all the gear is bomber, although you do have to climb fairly high above some of it. My gear, in order of placement, was a 0.5 and 0.4 Camalot right next to each other, a #5 RP about 5' below the bolt (pretty bomber actually), above the first bolt was a 0.75 Camalot and green Alien placed right next to each other, and then I backed up the pin wi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I'll add some beta since no one has commented for a while....

I found this climb to be fantastic! Certainly better than the neighboring "Home Free". I was able to get some solid gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt by climbing up and left from the 1st bolt and into some licheny rock where I got a purple Mastercam and red c3 (both had long slings on them). It seemed a bit contrived, but it was better than going straight up to the 2nd bolt and risking a serious groundfall, especially because some... more >>


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