Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Just a little overhanging....


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Mr. Stevens

Point Rank: # 1,368
Total Points: 528
Last Year: 331
Last 30 Days: 1
25 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 418 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 64 | Stars 130 | Ratings 84
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : Life in the Fast Lane (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This was a fun, and memorable route. I'm pretty short and ended up having to do a pretty terrifying rightward lunge to a jug with the 2nd bolt well below my feet. Exciting! The upper part is great, it's like walking the plank...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a masterpiece! I got a very solid RP before committing to the mantle move getting to the 2nd bolt. A small, normal nut could probably work too. Very obvious placement from a good stance before the hard move.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Made In The USA (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Compared to similarly graded routes (EBGB's, Such A Savage, Hot Rocks, Swept Away, etc.) this thing was hard and desperate. Really good though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Take the approach that C Miller describes above. Way more pleasant. Also, this is a fantastic winter wall. BAKES in the sun from sun rise until 1-2 pm around X-mas/new years. Probably not good if it's windy, though...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There's an excellent (well, as good as you're going to get) #3 brass RP placement before the first bolt. It's almost directly right of the downward pointing flake feature on the face. A little tough to find, but it's from a great stance. I'd trust it to hold a small fall....

This felt quite a bit harder and certainly more heads-up than the Doub-Griffith.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I was really bummed about this route. As Kenny said above, we did it and it was incredibly sandy. I'm sure the climbing is fantastic, but it was hard to focus on that with sand pouring out of the cracks and coated on the walls making smears and lay backing damn near impossible. I'm assuming this route gets climbed a lot more in the spring helping to clean it up and then it just sits untouched over the summer. Oh well...

In mid-October the sun hits the top of the route and works its way down... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Looking for Yesterday (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, but still cleaning up a bit. We did three laps on it and some small stuff came down each time. It would be wise for the belayer to wear a helmet. Just as good as the stuff at minimum crag.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yea, and in the Gunks it'd be 5.6...maybe 5.6+


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The quicklink for the 4th or 5th bolt (can't remember) is showing some serious wear. It's got a decent groove where it makes contact with the bolt. I didn't have any extra quicklinks with me, but if I go back soon, I'll try and replace it as well as replace the webbing with chain as it's looking a bit worse for the wear. If you beat me to it, please post up here!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, wow, wow! I think this pitch used to live in City of Rocks but got lost and ended up in Thunder Ridge. Expect some big air if you blow it between bolts 4-5! A medium nut can be placed to lessen the mild runout.

Also, the 4th bolt is hard to clip if you're on the short side. If you can have your taller partner hang a longer draw, you'll be psyched.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: What's the sun exposure like for the route mid-October?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Just to add on to what has been said above:

I had the chance to meet one of the landowners. He and his wife actually pulled up on their four-wheeler while my GF and I were walking the road and offered us a ride (hell yeah, we hopped on!), and he is a SUPER nice and friendly guy. We chatted for 5-10 minutes, and he pretty much said the same things that have been said above, also that the threatening gun signs are *mostly* a joke, haha! Please, please, please, respect this place and the rules su... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure if it was because of the floods or just the season, but as of this September 2015, there is no water even close to the bottom of the climb. It's a huge, open, dry area, and you can start the route right from the ground and avoid the traverse from the pedestal. This was my first time at the crag, so I'm not sure if that's how it is every fall. Regardless, it was a really pleasant place to hang out. Great shade until about 10:30 this time of year. After that, it'll bake in the sun for a w... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Heads up on the guidebook...the bolt count was off for a lot of the routes that I got on this past trip. Just be sure to always take a few extra draws with you! Other than that the guidebook is fantastic and the climbing is even better!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : Quest for Fire (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For the 2nd bolt, you may want to consider putting 2 quickdraws together. With a normal draw, the rope gets pinched on an edge that isn't that sharp, but it still will put wear on your rope if you are falling and/or working the bottom moves. A longer style draw (like the petzl spirit) prevents the rope from getting pinched, but now that edge can actually open the gate of the rope end biner! 2 quickdraws put together (biner/dogbone/biner/dogbone/biner) works best! Food for thought...


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Glamrock : Winger (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: More on the wasp nest. They are SUPER aggressive, and while my buddy tried to avoid them they still stung him. They were even chasing him as he got lowered down! Be aware...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The 2nd to last pitch felt just as hard as the final crux pitch. Really cool climbing throughout, although route finding is a bit tricky, and each pitch has some spice, except for maybe the last one. The rock is great, it's like Lumpy and Tuolumne had a baby....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Some gear beta I wish I'd had for the 2nd pitch: place your small gear in the first part (takes great nuts), and make sure to save your #0.5-1 Camalots for the second half! The belay takes cams from #0.75-3.

The traverse was rowdy! I took some whippers before figuring out the sequence, which involved some weird left hand-foot match while down stepping...funky! Be careful not to swing back into the flake - could get ugly.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought about clipping that old button head...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Daily Planet (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: the 2nd pitch is burly! The squeeze chimney made the whole climb worthwhile. Great position!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A yellow DMM offset nut placed about a foot below the pin backs it up nicely. The crux getting past the pin on this felt nearly identical to the upper crux on Blackwater over at the Pet Wall. Really reachy crux at the top of the thin crack with thin feet, but I'm short! Technical and a bit spicy, but safe overall.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Black Water (5.12-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: seemed shorter than 120 feet. Used a 70 m rope and had loads left. A 60 m should work, but tie knots! I think it had more than 10 draws, too. I want to say 14 + anchors... currently no fixed draws for the chains.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Liquid Gold (5.10+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Top 100 in the guidebook, huh? I must have been missing something. The 1st pitch was pretty cool, but the 2nd and 3rd were pretty nasty - dirty, loose, etc. The 4th pitch was great, but after the middle pitches I was feeling pretty over it. Also, the 4th pitch is not obvious in terms of route finding. There is a massive, full extension (at least for me) rightward crack switch. I started going up left in the well traveled, well chalked finger crack, which just ended at a seam and a sloping ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is an amazing pitch. Although, I didn't find it to be as spicy as many people had led me to believe. It just seemed like normal City of Rocks climbing. No hands rests before all of the hard parts!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - East : Technicolor Arete (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow! You'll be so psyched if you get on this thing! The climbing is nails hard until the horizontal, and there's probably a couple ways of doing it. I stayed left of the 2nd bolt using razor crimps and some funky left thumb gaston while getting my right foot into the hueco. Make sure you've got strong fingers and leather tips!

The 3rd bolt is in the worst place possible. If you blow that clip you could certainly deck. Bring a few nuts or a 0.5 camalot/orange metolius to place before the c... more >>


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!