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Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,189
Total Points: 136
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 1
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All (92) | Routes | Areas | Photos (24) | Comments (16) | Posts (52) | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I'll add some beta since no one has commented for a while....

I found this climb to be fantastic! Certainly better than the neighboring "Home Free". I was able to get some solid gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt by climbing up and left from the 1st bolt and into some licheny rock where I got a purple Mastercam and red c3 (both had long slings on them). It seemed a bit contrived, but it was better than going straight up to the 2nd bolt and risking a serious groundfall, especially because some... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Stargate (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fantastic! I enjoyed it more than Land of Ra. The moves past the first 3 bolts are super thin, technical, and very bouldery. Definitely get on it if you're in the area!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry... (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a great route, just pray you don't have the Mariah Carey song stuck in your head for the whole pitch. I stayed just right of the 2nd bolt, which turned out to be pretty blank and definitely felt 5.11. The 2nd clip was super desperate for me at 5'7".


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Definitely some scary loose rock just below the roof. Some trundling may be in order...


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Crack's On Top (5.11a/b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or a yellow Alien/yellow Metolius for the top.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Werewolves of London (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb - one of the older Squamish guidebooks rates it 5.11c, which seemed about right. Felt quite a bit harder than "Partners In Crime", which is just a few climbs over and rated 5.11a.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Did this today and somehow managed to do it in 3 pitches. Each pitch was nearly a full 70 m rope length, and I put runners on almost every piece.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel : Heart Of Norway (5.10c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this today. Simply amazing! Perfect splitter and finger locks for days. However, you can definitely notice that it doesn't get much traffic due to the "ball bearing" effect you may feel under your feet. The 1st pitch is definitely a sandbag at 5.10a and a bit spooky getting off the ground. I felt this was definitely the "sporty" pitch in terms of gear and climbing style as opposed to the plug-and-chug of the 2nd pitch splitter.

We had a 70m rope and rapped to the top of the 1st pit... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The third pitch was one of the best leads I've ever done. Amazing granite trickery. The 4th pitch has great gear, p.3 is definitely thin.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Mark of Art (5.10d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: I second the loose block. I wish I had read these comments before I got on the route. It is seriously loose and will kill your belayer as it is directly above them. It needs to go.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Catchy (5.10d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: climbed this back in early June and was sitting on the block just below the anchors bringing my second up to go do catchy corner. When my partner got up, he yarded on the block and pulled himself up onto it and the thing flexed quite a bit. I'm not sure if this is the 'flexing jug' people have been referring to, but this is a microwave sized block and it's definitely moving ALOT.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: I agree with the above comment that a small cam works in lieu of a big one at the start. I got in a red c3, but can also understand the desire to place a #5 at the start as well. Brought 1 #4 for the pod/flare thing. As the above comments also state, there's quite a bit of funky rock on this throughout the route. There was a particular rock that is in the pod about 3/4ths of the way up the route that I tried to trundle, but was unable to get it out by hand.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : The Sickle (5.10c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: The gear given by the Bloom guidebook (camalot edition) is very wrong. It says to bring several .75 & 1 camalots and only a few 2's. Bring a .75 and 1 for the beginning, a possible 4 camalot for the pod (depending on your comfort level), 1-2 blue camalots and the rest is all yellow.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this a few days ago and sand started flowing down the crack from the top of the first big ledge and coming out at the bottom. The sand was essentially flowing out of the crack for 2 minutes non-stop. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Definitely freaked me out a bit...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: Climbed North Chimney this past weekend. The bolt on the 2nd pitch is ready to pop out and can't hold much more than body weight. You definitely want a #5 or even a #6 cam to supplement the bolt. A #4 does fit but not until you are well above the bolt. There's good face climbing to the left of the off-width. Felt about 5.10 or so. It's a good option if off-width isn't your thing.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: What is a "standard rack" for the Durrance route?