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Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact bsmoot


Point Rank: # 299
Total Points: 1,836
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
241 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 873 | Routes 60 | Areas 9 | Photos 184 | Page Improvments | Comments 181 | Posts 273 | Stars 151 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Cool looking line, especially the finish. Where's the crux? In the 70's Marshall Ralph climbed up to the thin horizontal crack on the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Millstone Slab (5.4 R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Unique photo


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: bsmoot When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: We originally rated pitch one 12a, but downgraded it because we were worried that Merrill B. would send it and then downgrade it, but after all these years he hasn't tried it. I'd say it's a little harder than All Chalk and No Action.

Note: The hard pitch off of Pedestal Ledge requires a few small cams.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Crack in the Cosmic Egg (5.10 C2+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: Excellent!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Just got off the climb today, Had a great time! ...lots of ice. I've posted a photo showing the upper route.

Understand where cdec is coming from, as I share many of his ideas...I'm glad you posted up, but if someone is asking to make a route safer, I can't really say no. Other members of the FA party were in favor of the new anchors. Since this route attracts climbers of more moderate ability, It seemed that ultimately, adding fixed anchors was the best decision.

Except for possibly the last... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a unique photo, I've never seen the roof from this angle...Thanks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: Yeah:

Got the line drawing from Jeff. He is always very helpful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 15, 2008

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Comments: If you choose to free the first tension traverse of Arm & Hammer, then you'll need to climb 11c to get to Butcher Knife.

Thanks for the write up!

Edit: Pitch 4 is usually done in 2 pitches. This route offers sustained and varied climbing...a forgotten classic.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : American Fork Twins : The Rookie Party (WI4)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 27, 2008

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Comments: Wow! I wanna do this climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : South Ridge (5.4)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 27, 2008

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Comments: This is a very good winter route. Thanks for posting up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Direct (5.7+)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Don't ever remember a bolt being there. You can get some gear in.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Lateral Fin (5.12a/b)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Free? By Who? How hard was it? ...Wow!

Edit:

Great Job!!!! On the 4th pitch, it must have been fun getting to the first bolt...you did have that feeble looking 30+ year old fixed nut to catch you if you popped making the clip.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Lateral Fin (5.12a/b)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: The 4th pitch could go, or may have already been done clean. Cam hooks are the ticket. It's spectacular, a long exposed face crack...one of the best positions in the canyon.

P.S. The first bolt (buttonhead) on the 4th pitch was not part of the first ascent. The bolted belay at the end of the pitch wasn't either.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Direct North Face (5.8 A2-) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: All right! This photo has great perspective.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Meat Puppets (5.12c)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 12, 2008

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Comments: This is one of the more improbable lines on the granite. Amazing route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : East Waterfall Dome : Kinabalu (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 5, 2008

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Comments: Very impressive solo James...how heavy was your pack? !!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Cactus Flower (5.10+)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 3, 2008

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Comments: I'm thinking the F.A. was Ed Webster and Mark Rolofson around 1979


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: Speaking of traditional style, if you bring .5, #1 & #2 camalots, you can place them on pitches 2 & 3.

Bolt 3 on the first pitch was not part of the first ascent. Same goes for the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Resort Buttress : High Nowhere (5.9)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Glad to see you got the Reverend out climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Heart of Darkness (5.8+ R)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Vince:

It sounds like you may have been off route for the first few pitches of the route. Heart of Darkness starts RIGHT of Slippery Slab. It sounds like you started Left, and then followed Slippery Slab for a few pitches to forested ledge.

Heart of Darkness begins with 2 closely spaced bolts just left of a Right leaning roof. Clipping the 3rd bolt offers ground fall potential, but the climbing is only 5.7...in cooler temps.

The 2nd pitch climbs Fallen Goat for a few moves. Then you traverse ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Encore (5.7)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Sections of this route have probably been climbed before. A #1 TCU helps on the 2nd pitch.

"Really fun 5.7 on cool rock." ...1 star?

For some reason, I really like this route. IMO it's 2-3 stars


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Playing Hooky Var. (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: Shingo:

To my knowledge, that variation didn't have a name. Back in the 70's, climbers didn't name, date or record variations , unless they offered really good climbing. The early guidebooks just gave them numbers 3.1, 3.2 and so on. Naming everything wasn't as common as it now is.

The Playing Hooky variation sounds good to me. Thanks for posting up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Shadow of Death (5.10)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for posting this route...Les raved about this line.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Playing Hooky Var. (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: It has been done. I had it marked as a variation in my 1975 guide book, and I know that climbers had been doing it before I did.

Don't underestimate old timers...we climbed the hell out of the Gate Buttress!

p.s. Thanks for the clean-up


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Imperial (5.9+)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: Drew:

You rarely if ever, put up FA's easier than 5.11...What's happening?


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