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Rock Climbing Photo: Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact bsmoot

Point Rank: # 334
Total Points: 1,967
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 11
293 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 952 | Routes 61 | Areas 9 | Photos 205 | Page Improvements | Comments 197 | Posts 281 | Stars 183 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.12a)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: "but a few jugs have been broken off"

This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: Nice Photos...Wild looking line!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 1, 2009

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Comments: This is an original Piton Ron topo, drawn nearly 30 years ago...cool


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.

This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.

F.A. Ted Wilson and Robert Stout May 1961


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Whoa...I've never seen it so thick!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Well 2 stars = "a good route" so yes, that's being generous. I'm glad to get the input because I did feel a bit leery about giving the route 4 stars. James gave Black Streak 4 stars, so I tried it with Gothic! ... One could in fact argue that the Castle, with all of it's looseness shouldn't get any stars... after all, you're climbing on Satan's turf.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 6, 2009

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Comments: Routes that don't get climbed very often tend to build up choss. Guess I'd better lessen my star rating giving all of the whining going on here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : The 7th Way (5.11-)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009

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Comments: Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route. The second pitch is one of the best face pitches I've done on the granite. It's like a 5.10 version of All Chalk and No Action, but longer. The steep 4th pitch has lots varied jamming...great way to finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Goodro's Chimney (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 15, 2009

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Comments: This airy climb has a nice taste of history to it. The climbing is better and steeper than it looks. The old fixed pins seem to be right at the cruxes. You get a good view from the top. I'll affirm that Harold told me this was his favorite Storm Mt. climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: We used the old stardrives in Zion...fun to place.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: Your're welcome! It's Piton Ron sacked out after a long day of nailing...and a few too many bong hits.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: Great job guys! Thanks for the photos & history


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Lateral Fin (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: Cool, the left bolt was an original. The right bolt was from the Miller/Ward attempt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Nuptial Vow (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: This route was originally led with trad gear only. No bolts were placed on the first ascent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: And the Whillans harness...still got mine!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: Hey Jeff:

Thanks for checking in. I like the old name, and I still call it The Wheeler Newsom Wall. The Ruckman's probably changed the name because of all of Steve's contributions. Steve was quite revered at the time. Glad I got to climb with Wheels.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Cool looking line, especially the finish. Where's the crux? In the 70's Marshall Ralph climbed up to the thin horizontal crack on the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Millstone Slab (5.4 R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Unique photo


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: bsmoot When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: We originally rated pitch one 12a, but downgraded it because we were worried that Merrill B. would send it and then downgrade it, but after all these years he hasn't tried it. I'd say it's a little harder than All Chalk and No Action.

Note: The hard pitch off of Pedestal Ledge requires a few small cams.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Crack in the Cosmic Egg (5.10 C2+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: Excellent!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI4-5)
By: bsmoot When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Just got off the climb today, Had a great time! ...lots of ice. I've posted a photo showing the upper route.

Understand where cdec is coming from, as I share many of his ideas...I'm glad you posted up, but if someone is asking to make a route safer, I can't really say no. Other members of the FA party were in favor of the new anchors. Since this route attracts climbers of more moderate ability, It seemed that ultimately, adding fixed anchors was the best decision.

Except for possibly the last... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a unique photo, I've never seen the roof from this angle...Thanks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: Yeah:

Got the line drawing from Jeff. He is always very helpful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 15, 2008

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Comments: If you choose to free the first tension traverse of Arm & Hammer, then you'll need to climb 11c to get to Butcher Knife.

Thanks for the write up!

Edit: Pitch 4 is usually done in 2 pitches. This route offers sustained and varied climbing...a forgotten classic.

This route is a classic, put up in impeccable style. The first 3 pitches offer continuous, varied climbing that is both mental and physical.


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