Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: bsmoot When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: hellish scenario.
???
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Hanging Slab Gully (WI3)
By: bsmoot When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun little climb. Get on it now...as soon as more snow comes, it gets buried.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "but a few jugs have been broken off"
This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Photos...Wild looking line!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Strewn Masters of Hore (5.12+)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "If you have ever rapped down from the last pitch of Crescent Crack to the Coffin you have rapped right down this corner."
You must mean Final Link, since Crescent Crack ends below the start of the Coffin.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an original Piton Ron topo, drawn nearly 30 years ago...cool
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.
This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.
F.A. Ted Wilson and Robert Stout May 1961
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa...I've never seen it so thick!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well 2 stars = "a good route" so yes, that's being generous. I'm glad to get the input because I did feel a bit leery about giving the route 4 stars. James gave Black Streak 4 stars, so I tried it with Gothic! ... One could in fact argue that the Castle, with all of it's looseness shouldn't get any stars... after all, you're climbing on Satan's turf.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes that don't get climbed very often tend to build up choss. Guess I'd better lessen my star rating giving all of the whining going on here.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : The 7th Way (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. The second pitch is one of the best face pitches I've done on the granite. It's like a 5.10 version of All Chalk and No Action, but longer. The steep 4th pitch has lots varied jamming...great way to finish!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Goodro's Chimney (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This airy climb has a nice taste of history to it. The climbing is better and steeper than it looks. The old fixed pins seem to be right at the cruxes. You get a good view from the top. I'll affirm that Harold told me this was his favorite Storm Mt. climb.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Backoff (WI4)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. Rick Wyatt & Doug Hansen, late 1970's
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We used the old stardrives in Zion...fun to place.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your're welcome! It's Piton Ron sacked out after a long day of nailing...and a few too many bong hits.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job guys! Thanks for the photos & history
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Lateral Fin (5.10 A2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, the left bolt was an original. The right bolt was from the Miller/Ward attempt.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Nuptial Vow (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was originally led with trad gear only. No bolts were placed on the first ascent.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall, aka H... : Wing Nut (5.11c) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And the Whillans harness...still got mine!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall, aka H... : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Jeff:
Thanks for checking in. I like the old name, and I still call it The Wheeler Newsom Wall. The Ruckman's probably changed the name because of all of Steve's contributions. Steve was quite revered at the time. Glad I got to climb with Wheels.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12-)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool looking line, especially the finish. Where's the crux? In the 70's Marshall Ralph climbed up to the thin horizontal crack on the first pitch.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Millstone Slab (5.4 R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unique photo
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: bsmoot When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We originally rated pitch one 12a, but downgraded it because we were worried that Merrill B. would send it and then downgrade it, but after all these years he hasn't tried it. I'd say it's a little harder than All Chalk and No Action.
Note: The hard pitch off of Pedestal Ledge requires a few small cams.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Crack in the Cosmic Egg (5.10 C2+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent!
|
RSS Feed
